5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
Around 50 mph there is very noticeable vibration in the front and it goes away or is reduced as I reach 65mph. I had the tires balanced and rotated on the 1995 525i. I still have the same problem. I have custom aluminium wheels with spacers. The first time I had a flat, I had a lot of trouble trying to get the spare on. When I removed the wheel, the spacer remained on the hub. It took me a while to realize what the problem was.
What could be the problem with this vibration? Is this just balancing problem or some thing more to it?
Thank you very much for that very specific diagnosis and the link. The link is quite informative and it looks like the most probable cause is the thrust arm failure.
It just occurred to me that when the tire shop removes the wheels to balance, what if one of the spacers stays back on the hub? Is it possible for them to balance the wheel without a spacer? Could that cause any problem? I instructed them to not to rotate the tires since I had already done that. They may not notice that one of the spacers is still on the hub at the time of putting the wheel back.
I have now replaced both the Thrust Arms. Replaced the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. Had the tires/wheels balanced.
I still have the same exact problem. The front shakes quite violently as I pass thorugh 50-65. Doesn't matter, whether I am increasing or decreasing the speed. Doesn't matter if the vehicle is in neutral or in gear.
This is very weird. Looks like some thing goes in to resonance in this speed range.
I gather that what I previously described as "spacers" can also be called "hub centric rings." I have four custom wheels made by ROH 7JJX16 and each wheel has an aluminum hub centric ring. When I remove the wheel some times the ring remains with the wheel and some times the ring stays on the hub. Could this be a problem that some wheels are balanced with the ring and some without?
I also notice that the wear is uneven on the tires. Outside is slightly more than inside. It was suggested to me that the problem could be with the tires. To me the problem seems too much like mechanical origin rather than tires. I would expect the problem to show up at all speeds if it is with the tires.
Any comments suggestions are appreciated. The car is now undrivable at the most common high way speeds.
This may be too simplistic of a question, but since you haven't mentioned anything about a wheel alignment...did you have your wheels aligned? Inside wear can indicate incorrect camber setting or a combination of incorrect camber and caster. If so, this could also contribute to the shaking.
__________________ <span style='color:green'>1994 325i </span>- - - 75,000 mi.
No mods - - - very happy as is!
<span style='color:green'>1995 525i </span>- - - 154,000 mi.
No squeaks or rattles... unreal!
HI i am a newbie on ear but have been dropping in every now and then and i just seen this post , I got a problem like this one only my e34 don,t shake it throws my car either left or right when i brake. i have changed both upper arms and bushes and also 2 new disks with pads and both t-rod ends ???? help......
Originally posted by mozart@Jun 6 2004, 06:43 PM HI i am a newbie on ear but have been dropping in every now and then and i just seen this post , I got a problem like this one only my e34 don,t shake it throws my car either left or right when i brake. i have changed both upper arms and bushes and also 2 new disks with pads and both t-rod ends ???? help......
sounds like you have a sticky caliper or a clogged brake line.
Sooraj, I had the same problem and changed my trust arm, Lower control arm, and sway bar link, the problem vanished and the sympthoms were the exact same as what you described. The reason I am writing is that you made no mention of the bushings in the thrust arm, If they were not replaced along with the thrust arm you have to put new bushings in. You can quite easily fit the parts on your own if you have an assortment of basic tools except putting in a new bushing in the thrust arm, I tried a lot of different things and it would not budge, it needs about 4 metric tons and upward before it starts moving.(if you happen to have some liquid Nitrogen laying around you could possibly get the bushing to fit if you freeze it first, and heat the arm but I doubt it. )
Apparently it is also a good idea to fit the bushing of a 750IL instead of the standard one for 525i. It should last longer, give a bit stiffer handling but it will also increase the amount of cabin noise from the wheels.
Oh, and pre thrust arm change, the shimmy increased when breaking, even at moderate speeds.
Anyways, make sure to give us a shout when u figure out what causes the shimmy on your car
__________________ I take no responsebility for my spelling, I'm Norwegian. Our golden age consisted of raping and pillaging, whattdoya excpect!
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