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Old 02-04-2006, 09:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
Starmavin
5th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: NC
Car: Opening soon:
Posts: 1,119
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Starmavin is a jewel in the roughStarmavin is a jewel in the roughStarmavin is a jewel in the roughStarmavin is a jewel in the rough
When doing an oil pan I advise useing a cross brace or pipe with wood blocks from the strut tower across to the hood hinge area rase the motor slightly and chain to the front timing cover engine mount so when you let the motor down the chain is tight, this way the motor doesn't drop at all. Undo the steering coulper then take off the power steering hoses to the rack catch any fluid (don't lose the banjo bolt washers) and then disconect the motor mounts, sway bar and unbolt the front cross member. I leave the lower control arms and tie rods connected and just let the cross member hang down to the ground or to a suport. I have done it many times this way. I don't think I forgot anything. This way gives you total clearance with out the risk of damaging or pinching wires or anything else.

As far as the pan goes, I use brake parts cleaner and a good rag to clean gasket surfaces, it dries quickly and completly with no trace of oil, normaly I install gaskets dry unless there is a need for RTV at compound joints and in that case I use RTV called "Great stuff" gasket maker, it is the best I have ever used, you can use this stuff on the whole pan with out the gasket. However if you do, do what you have to before you set it in place, it'll take time and a liberal dose of cursing to get it off again, that stuff is tough!!! I don't advise putting RTV on both sides of the whole gasket, the gasket can slip out of place when you tighten the bolts.

Last edited by Starmavin : 02-04-2006 at 09:51 PM.
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