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Hello folks. Moving over from a Ford truck to a BMW has been a learning experience. After having driven the Ranger for about 12 years and swapping over to the Bimmer, I have discovered that the smell of a burnt clutch is NOT an aphrodesiac. As such, I will be needing a new clutch for the 2001 325XI in the foreseeable future.
After scouring the intarnet I believe I have learned a few things. One, not many websites know that BMW manufactured an XI series. Secondly, the clutch disc is the same size as on the 330 model(240mm).
If anyone would be so kind as to confirm the size similarities(and compatibility) I would greatly appreciate it. Also, I would like to find a clutch that will last for a long time. I dont race, but I dont take my time getting up to speed. I would like as smoothe an engagement as possible.
Any direction would be helpful. Thanks a bunch y'all.
__________________ Current: 2001 BMW 325XI, 60k miles
1993 Ford Ranger, 200k miles
History:
1995 Ford Escort
1991 Ford Mustang
1986 Ford Taurus
1978 Pontiac Firebird
no matter what the clutch friction material, the time it lasts is dependent really only on the driver's skill. normally, clutch plates should be good for about 100k.
check bavauto for a replacement. they will know all the exact specifics.
instead of looking for an indestructable clutch.... practice and perfect your shifts!
It should only take you a few hundred shifts to be good at it.
UNLESS, you have a bad habit that you do repeatedly, in which case you will fry the next clutch also.
Maybe you need a pro lesson to get you on the right track!
This may sound like a bunch of excuses but when you've driven a truck wth a 3ft shifter, geared for lots of torque, for 200k miles then swap to a 8" shifter on a car with real HP it takes some getting used to. The consequences of a redneck gone import.
Well, my habits have improved drastically but I fear the damage is already done. I dont have slippage yet, but I know the feel of a clutch on its way north.
And as for buying another SACH clutch, it would be cheaper in the short run but I intend to get about 150k more out of this vehicle. I would prefer a clutch that will last that long.
Thanks for the help. I am still looking but want to pay less than the $600 price tags I've seen.
__________________ Current: 2001 BMW 325XI, 60k miles
1993 Ford Ranger, 200k miles
History:
1995 Ford Escort
1991 Ford Mustang
1986 Ford Taurus
1978 Pontiac Firebird
You think $600 is steep? Im paying close to $750 for mine plus another $750 for a 12 lb flywheel. Stick shift is more expensive that automatics!
So , you are saying the stick is cheaper than automatic!? Belive me, you would not like to pay the bill for broken auto transmission on BMW E46 3 series.How about $5000 insted of yours $750 + $750, he ?
Well, its not slipping after it is engaged. I am concerned because the "window" of engagement is very small, about 1.5" at the top of the pedal. Also, when revved past 4500ish it wont engage into 1st. While I dont drag race, it can get me into trouble when pulling out of my subdivision onto a 55mph road.
__________________ Current: 2001 BMW 325XI, 60k miles
1993 Ford Ranger, 200k miles
History:
1995 Ford Escort
1991 Ford Mustang
1986 Ford Taurus
1978 Pontiac Firebird
this is normal. bmw clutch is self adjusting, so the take-up is always the same, and relatively high.
please do not rev before engaging the gear, sychros will go bad. engage the gear, then rev the crap out of it. of course, you will fry the clutch this way, if done routinely.
the most sensitive test for marginal clutch performace is to floor it in 5th (6th) gear, at about 40 mph. it will slip if it is worn.
this is normal. bmw clutch is self adjusting, so the take-up is always the same, and relatively high.
please do not rev before engaging the gear, sychros will go bad. engage the gear, then rev the crap out of it. of course, you will fry the clutch this way, if done routinely.
the most sensitive test for marginal clutch performace is to floor it in 5th (6th) gear, at about 40 mph. it will slip if it is worn.
Another test that is recommended (by Chiltons, Hayes, Bently ect.) for testing if the clutch is toast or not (or getting there) is to stop the car some where not in a road and with nothing within 10ft (just in case) of the front of the car. Put the car into a gear 4th or greater, then take the clutch out no gas. If the car dies immediately it is fine, if it sputters then dies the clutch is "del fuego".
But as for the clutch in question, it sounds like it is still alright. Just get some one who is good at driving stick (or a mechanic if you've got no one else) and get them to be brutally honest about your driving habits. It may cost you a bit if you do not know the mechanic (btw I would only recommned doing this with a mechanic you know to be honest), but it will save you from having to replace another clutch if you take their adivce to... heart... or foot in this case.
The vehicle stopped instantly, didnt move from its spot.
No need for a clutch replacement then, as long as your foot was not on the brake and the parking brake wasn't on (forgot to explicitly state that, hope you saw what I meant).
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