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3-Series (E46, E90) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1999 to Current. Models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318Ci, BMW 320i, BMW 323i, BMW 325i, BMW 330i, BMW 328 Ci, BMW 328i, BMW 325i/xi, BMW 330Ci, BMW 320d, BMW 330d, BMW 335d.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 01:55 PM
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Hey Guys,
Finnally got around to getting my front breaks checked out.

The mechanic told me that the fronts need replacing (suggested new roters as "European car makers don't allow for resurfacing of their stock roters") and the rears have about 40% wear, but could wait...

For new roters (front) $60/ea.
For new pads (front) $67/set.
New sensor $16

Labor ~$100 @ $75/hr.

so about $300. I know this is alot better than a dealer, but would this sound right, I mean, it's a little bit more than what I paid for my other cars, but this is a BMW.

He also said that if it were him, he'd just get the pads, end of story, however, he did say that if it doesn't fix the brakes 100%, not only would I need new roters, but also new pads (a second time).

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#2 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 02:07 PM
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Hey, sounds like your mechanic is telling you the truth!... Pricing sounds about right. Mine cost $450

I just had my front ones replace as well on a 97 540! In regards to the rotors, it's true, Europen rotors are softer and required replacing and not machining. And yes, if you do not replace the rotors, you'll need pads sooner than you think!

The other thing you could do is buy the parts on line, I buy my stuff from Bavauto. com. It's al ittle more expensive at htis site but I like their service and quality. Take the parts to your mechanic and pay him for labor only. I know the owner at the shop where I take my car, so he lets me get away with this... Sometimes he orders parts that I forgot...

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#3 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 02:10 PM
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Bav auto: Fronts
Rotors: $54 per rotor (brembo oe style)
Pads: $44 Pagid
Sensor: $12

His prices are a bit high, but he has to make a profit on parts too, not just labor.

He is also correct in telling you to not re-surface the rotors. How thick are your rotors? If they still have about 60 thousandths before they are at minimums, then you can probably get away with pads only (that is if you don't autocross). If you are a rough driver, then get pads and rotor, you'll have that piece of mind.

Better yet, do it your self and save $150...

Need a new sig...

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#4 (permalink) Old 08-16-2004, 03:47 PM
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Thanks for the replies! I have tried to ask him if I brought in the parts my self and had him install them... he out right said NO . He would refuse to anything like that....

BTW, where I live, they (managment of the properties in my community) had a stipulation in thier by-laws that banned anyone doing work on thier own cars... Fucking Ridiculious I think!

Dough

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#5 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 06:40 PM
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Thats crazy!
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#6 (permalink) Old 08-17-2004, 09:37 PM
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I think i paid... 470 for my fronts, so that sounds like a good deal

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#7 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 10:50 AM
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Just got back from the Mechanic.... Final costs:

$59.75 for the disks....times 2 = 119.50
$64.25 for pads
$16.30 for sensor
$200.05 for parts
$120.53 for labor
$320.58

tax = $19.23 @6%

TOTAL: $339.81

BUT the mechanic found a problem with the caliper. As he took it off, he noticed that the pad was so worn down so that less than 1/10mm remained. The pistion was so extended that it stuck. So, he says that it will need a new caliper REAL soon. Said that each caliper costs ~$190 and that it's best to do both of them in the front. Plus brake bleeding.... Actual quote from invoice:

Dust boot off the left front caliper due over extension. Cannot get back on with out complete overhaul.

Damn wear and tear items!

Dough

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#8 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 02:19 PM
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Do a price search for calipers and get an idea on pricing... He will probably charge you and additional $100 for labor... Too bad you couldn't do it while changing the pads and rotors... Dang it! You do need to bleed the system. An advise for you is, find a shop for your car, become friends with your mechanic/shop owner and expect good service and good deals.

Anyway, if you think about it even if you could do it yourself, you're only saving $100 bucks... I think it worth letting someone else do it, plus they check for other crap that you would missed if you were doing it yourself...



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#9 (permalink) Old 08-19-2004, 12:19 PM
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Yea I know, i've been driving around now and the breaks work fine with no pulling. Is it possible that while using the breaks on the road piston cover loosened up and is now normal?

Dough

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