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3-Series (E46, E90) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1999 to Current. Models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318Ci, BMW 320i, BMW 323i, BMW 325i, BMW 330i, BMW 328 Ci, BMW 328i, BMW 325i/xi, BMW 330Ci, BMW 320d, BMW 330d, BMW 335d.

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Old 01-31-2006, 04:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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EWS III problem - no dealer access

A brief synopsis of what the situation is:

I imported for my wife, a 318i auto yr.2000 E46 model for my wife six months ago (to replace a 93 model) from Singapore to Papua New Guinea. Soon after the starter motor solenoid need replacing….fixed, but it seems the auto electrician left the battery out for an extended period..

On trying to restart…. Nothing....dash lights, but nothing else. There are no BMW dealers in the country, to cut a long story (and a big learning curve of what computers are in BMW’s these days!). I imported a diagnostic program “Carsoft” and it gave me the attached error message. I contacted BMW AG, but after corresponding with them. There only solution was to fly and engineer with a GT1 computer here…..an expensive option even if I could find a person to do it.

I have corresponded with a lot of people on ways to get the car going…. The last advice was to get a new EWS 3 system. Fine if it works, but I am lead to believe I would still need a program to align the key code with the EWS?

But I read some place it is possible to re code the DME chip to override the EWS system? Is this possible? or just bypass the EWS all together?

any help would be appreciated as it is now six months since it was running.
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Old 01-31-2006, 06:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the DME and the EWS systems are perminatly married so to speak, you could get a new EWS module, but you are correct in your assumption that the DME would have to be aligned and only a certified BMW service center would have the programming to do so...unfortunatly (and fortunatly at the same time) the EWS system is not by-passable...other than that, I think getting a tech with a GT1 to you is the best/easiest option to get your car running agian. I know this is not what you want to hear....good luck though
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So I guess my 1st thought is was the starter ever really bad? What was the original symptom.. same as now? No crank/no start right? So you put the key in and you get the cluster lighting up but the starter never turns and the engine doesnt crank right?
So by looking at the readout on Carsoft it says you have a key failure... Do you have more than 1 key or do you only have 1 key? If you only have 1 then have you tried ordering another or is it not possible to order a key by vin on a NON-USA car? I need to clear those issues up but I can tell you that it sure seems like you just have a bad key. If the key was OK but the ISN # wasnt making its way to the DME then the vehicle would crank but not start. Another way of confirming a bad key (and I know Ive posted this on the forums somewhere before) is to 1) roll down drivers window. 2) insert key in drivers door lock cylinder 3) sit in drivers seat 4) reach out the window and using the key, lock the vehicle. 5) remove key from door put it in the ignition and turn ign on (Position 2)
Now if EWS is online and working AND it recognizes the key 1 of 2 things will happen depending on model and year. 1) the doors will unlock or 2) you will hear an audible noise from the drivers lock actuator like a motor running meaning that the actuator is taking itself out of double lock mode. If this happens then you know that EWS is working and that the key is successfully recognized. Its a quick and easy test.

So really before we can go any further we need to know how many keys you have, whether you have tried the spare key if avail, and if ordering a key by VIN# is an option from your location. Then we can go from there.

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Old 02-01-2006, 11:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i tried to keep the explaination short

Thanks for your help.

I got a new key from BMW same result.

the initial problem was the starter motor solenoid, on starting sometimes it would click the soleniod only...on removal found the housing was cracked.

i traced the wiring from starter and ignition with a mate... there appears to be signal coming from annenna, but no outputs from EWS. Starter will engage if i power it directly.

i will try the proceedure you have described....i have done the key intiallisation procedure previously
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Old 02-02-2006, 04:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Tried your Key procedure....option 2. happens. Actuators engage...door remains locked.
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Old 02-02-2006, 11:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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OK well if that happens then here is the thing. Theoretically the key should be fine. The EWS recognizes the key and accepts the key as being valid and sends the signal to the general module to remove the door locks from deadbolt. Therefore it should in turn also be sending the signal to the Starter as well. You said that you traced the wires from the EWS to the starter and that the EWS is NOT sending a power signal to the starter...is this correct? Because we do not have the 318i model here in the US as an e46 I do not know the engine e-code or the engine management system that it uses. If you can get me this information I can attempt to pull up a schematic to try and assist you further.
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Old 02-05-2006, 05:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks,

the engine number is 05949546194E1, (Auto, with triptronic). i will get other info if you give me a hint to where its situated!

The EWS 3 box, (BMW 61.35-6 905 677, 608 377 LEAR, 03 SW 08) has a 13 PIN connector, With the ignition on start. it has the following:

> Pin 1 large black wire Power
> Pin 2 BLK/BLUE NO POWER
> PIN 3 NOT USED
> PIN 4 BLK/VIO NO POWER
> PIN 5 BLK/WHT NO POWER
> PIN 6 BRN/BLK POWER
> PIN 7 BRN/BLK NO POWER
> PIN 8 NOT USED
> PIN 9 BRN/BLK NO POWER
> PIN 10 RED/BLK POWER
> PIN 11 VIO/YEL POWER
> PIN 12 BLK/YEL NO POWER
> PIN 13 RED/WHT POWER

When corresponding with BMW i suggested, we remove EWS, DME ignition and Keys. Send to a Helpful person woul has The GT1 or Displus software, instal in a donor car, program and send back to me. BMW was not helpfull!.

OR i believe in theory this could also work... as long as sombody with the right equipment is preprared to give it a go:
My thought is that since I have a OBD11 cable, I could connect my laptop to the car, then via the internet, using a program such as “VCN” (http://ultravnc.sourceforge.net/) connect to another computer that has the GT1 program. The VCN program basically would take over my laptop and take over the information coming to my Com 1 port, and the computer with the GT1 Program could reset the codes, as if they where actually here.

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