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Driving at the Track

3K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Ski 
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#1 ·
I plan to take my car to the track this year. Im beefing my suspension up (shocks/struts/springs/camber plates) soon and with some wider tires my car should be able to decently at the track. My concern is the stress/heat put on the car. Would you guys recommened changing all my fluids to Redline? Stainless steel brake lines? I wanna make my car track ready before I perticipate in my first event
 
#3 ·
that really isnt necessary, you'll probably get a crappy time, on your first few runs anyway, cuz its your first time. plus your car is gonna be put in a real high competitive class with real good drivers. i'd go into it with my car stock, and as u get the suspension mods done, and build your experience, you'll progress alot quicker.
 
#4 ·
Originally posted by MrM3@May 4 2003, 07:06 AM
that really isnt necessary, you'll probably get a crappy time, on your first few runs anyway, cuz its your first time. plus your car is gonna be put in a real high competitive class with real good drivers. i'd go into it with my car stock, and as u get the suspension mods done, and build your experience, you'll progress alot quicker.
i agree, its best to to get used to the car as it is. that way if you are pants are racing you havent wasted a shed load of money on non required mods...
 
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#6 ·
well the suspension mods wouldnt be a waste of money either way, becuase id be able to feel the handling on the street. I used to drive my 328i at the track, so track driving is nothing new to me, its just that car wasnt prepped for the race track, and im sure i was putting alot of stress on everything. But since my ///M is very special too me i just wanna im not hurting anything severely by pushing it at the track.... B)
 
#7 ·
Well... get some new oil, i like the heavy stuff, i buy 20w-50 redline (not the brand just a model name thing) Flush your Radiator and make sure you have 50/50 solution of distilled water/antifreeze. And if you really want to be cautious get a fluidyne radiator. They make BY FAR, no questions asked the best model specific aftermarket radiators out there. Im pretty sure your diff cover is already finned but that shouldnt make a difference. it will just be like driving on the street because you wont be hitting extreme speeds and certainly not for extended periods of time. Thats all i can think of now.
 
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#8 ·
I know my transmission temps will rise from the constant shifting, so im probaly going to change that to redline tranny fluid, maybe get some stainless steel break lines, new oil, and maybe some new wires/plugs just so i get a good spark/ignition....
 
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#10 ·
while i may not be professional good, but ive done my share of track driving, as well as attended two driving schools. It might take my a whole day to get my skills back on this car, but im not going to stink it up, at least......

btw cam, what are european floating rotors? because the #1 thing im concerned about are my brakes....
 
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#12 ·
i think a bigger, slotted rotor would help (disspates heat better), because the only thing that would "downgrade" in performance as im driving would be my braking....itll be a while till its prepped....
 
#13 ·
I got a new theory that I am going to test at the OTC. I will probably modify it and make it into some type of Pyramid of Doom.

Step 1 - Buy cool fast car

Step 2 - Cool fast car isn't fast enough. Build up engine with Supercharger

Step 3 - Cool fast car with boost doesn't stop good now. Add Big Ass Brakes

Step 4 - Cool fast car is fast and stops good. Add Hoosier tires.

Step 5 - Cool fast car, boost, brakes, now goes real fast. Now need rollcage so I don't kill myself.

Step 6 - Cool fast car, boost, brakes, cage, doesn't handle as good as it should. Add double adjustable shocks.

Step 7 - Cool fast car, boost, brakes, cage, shocks, still not fast enough. Throw out shocks, add triple adjustable shocks.

Step 8 - Cool fast car, boost, brakes, cage, 3x shocks still not fast enough. Add slicks.

Step 9 - Cool fast car, boost, brakes, cage, 3x shocks, slicks, still not fast enough. Add shit load of aerodynamic stuff. Big ass wing, big ass front splitter, etc.

So now it seems like I am stuck on Step 9 at the moment.
 
#14 ·
Originally posted by SpeedsterBMW@May 4 2003, 06:01 AM
i think a bigger, slotted rotor would help (disspates heat better), because the only thing that would "downgrade" in performance as im driving would be my braking....itll be a while till its prepped....
speedster, your M3 has very good brakes as is and can easily take a track day or season. you shouldnt feel any fade throughout the entire day. there really shouldnt be anything worry about in regards to your car, afterall it is a M3.
 
#16 ·
in my experience: BRAKES.

i am not sure about the model year of your car. some-one menitoned floating calipers: i think they are only on the m3 car, not any other 3 series. hugely expensive switch.

i'd get: dot 4 fluid fresh, flush the entire sysytem. you do not want this stuff boiling, especially if the car is old. do not get dot 5 silicone.

steel lines are good, they do stiffen the pedal.

ebs red stuff pads. need a little time to warm up, but they work on any rotors, and do not fade.

careful with the redline transmission fluid. they make excellent oils, but please make absolutely sure what gl grade (4 or 5 ) your transmission needs. i fried my synchros by being a bozo about this (read $1300 rebuilt :guns ).

i amnont sure that you really need suspension mods on an m car (someonoe already said this). if this is a regular 3 series, get eibach springs with matching shocks (koni makes good ones). ideally, buy everything from dinan in the u.s.

peter :driving
 
#17 ·
lol peter you just wasted your time sorta, unless people in the future have the same question look here. This guy was proven to have chronically lied about having an m3 so.... yea...
 
#18 ·
if this is so: can liars be ejected from this forum ?

as an aside: i found few posts with inaccurate, and sometimes questionable information (re. wheel bearings on a 323 ci A REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR !!!!:
"from what I understand, they are part of the CV joint.") . Moderator, any comments....

peter :blowup
 
#19 ·
Originally posted by peterkulesza@Aug 19 2003, 12:52 PM
if this is so: can liars be ejected from this forum ?

as an aside: i found few posts with inaccurate, and sometimes questionable information (re. wheel bearings on a 323 ci A REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR !!!!:
"from what I understand, they are part of the CV joint.") . Moderator, any comments....

peter :blowup
If you feel the need to correct someone Peter than by all means please do so..

On liars being banned, absolutely not!! SpeedsterBMW was banned on other issues pertaining to the forums..
 
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