Cold Idle Bounces, Almost Stalls - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 12-27-2004, 04:08 PM
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My 2001 325i idle bounces to the point of almost stalling after starting the car in the morning (cold ,<30 degrees). The engine rpm seems to level after the car warms up sufficently. Only happens when the car is cold. Goes away after driving about 5 minutes. Seems to be worse when the electrical system is under strain (lights, seat heat...) Could it be a weak battery? It happened all last winter and I dealt with it, it did not happen over the spring or summer this year, now it is back!
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#2 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbensten@Dec 27 2004, 04:08 PM
My 2001 325i idle bounces to the point of almost stalling after starting the car in the morning (cold ,<30 degrees). The engine rpm seems to level after the car warms up sufficently. Only happens when the car is cold. Goes away after driving about 5 minutes. Seems to be worse when the electrical system is under strain (lights, seat heat...) Could it be a weak battery? It happened all last winter and I dealt with it, it did not happen over the spring or summer this year, now it is back!
[snapback]259055[/snapback]
VANOS unit may need replacing.

Some people who have had the same problem, a software upgrade fixed it.

I am currently experiencing the same issue but have not had a chance to get it checked out.

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#3 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 01:16 PM
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yeah i have a similar problem with the electrical but it seems to be off and on and not as bad as yours. i tried cleaning the idle control valve but it was already spotless..

how many miles are on your car?
im also going to check my oxygen sensor


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#4 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 02:06 PM
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car only has 57,000 miles. I am running fuel system cleaner (tektron) trhough it now to see if that helps. Thanks
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#5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2004, 11:19 PM
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Hey guys I have that happenning on my 02 325. Will stall right in my garage if cold out wit seats on. Dealer say all is well but fuel economy is suffering.

Help!!!!

JIM ghead

Oh BTW I have 74k on it and am original owner. I have driven alot but babied this car.
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-17-2005, 06:04 PM
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Thanks all, I'll monitor this thread. A of this weekend I ran into this very thing with my '01 325i. It sat for two days in the cold blast that came through (Chicago area) and Sunday I had a hard time starting it, then had a bit of a jiggle when it finally did start until warm.

Any other suggestions welcome.

And thanks, it's at least nice to know I'm not alone.

-DPF
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-19-2005, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPF@Jan 17 2005, 05:04 PM
Thanks all, I'll monitor this thread. A of this weekend I ran into this very thing with my '01 325i. It sat for two days in the cold blast that came through (Chicago area) and Sunday I had a hard time starting it, then had a bit of a jiggle when it finally did start until warm.

Any other suggestions welcome.

And thanks, it's at least nice to know I'm not alone.

-DPF
[snapback]273541[/snapback]
hey everyone,
I had the same problem with my 00 328I, so i took it to the dealer and they replaced the VANOS unit and the cam gears. It was under warranty thankfully so I didnt have to pay the $1200.00 bill! Now the car idles fine when cold.
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#8 (permalink) Old 02-19-2005, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtr1000+Feb 19 2005, 12:18 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(vtr1000 @ Feb 19 2005, 12:18 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-DPF@Jan 17 2005, 05:04 PM
Thanks all, I'll monitor this thread.* A of this weekend I ran into this very thing with my '01 325i.* It sat for two days in the cold blast that came through (Chicago area) and Sunday I had a hard time starting it, then had a bit of a jiggle when it finally did start until warm.

Any other suggestions welcome.

And thanks, it's at least nice to know I'm not alone.

-DPF
[snapback]273541[/snapback]
hey everyone,
I had the same problem with my 00 328I, so i took it to the dealer and they replaced the VANOS unit and the cam gears. It was under warranty thankfully so I didnt have to pay the $1200.00 bill! Now the car idles fine when cold.
[snapback]294818[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]


FYI---New plugs solved the problem....75k was early for them though..........
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2005, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbensten@Dec 29 2004, 02:06 PM
car only has 57,000 miles. I am running fuel system cleaner (tektron) trhough it now to see if that helps. Thanks
[snapback]260342[/snapback]
I've got a 1999 328i. At ~60,000 mi I experienced a dip in the early COLD mornings after just arriving at the first stoplight (takes a min to get to it from my home). At that light, the RPM's would dip to just above stall, then spike and thrust the car forward an inch. After reading a few posts about the symptoms through the SEARCH button, I realized that it could've been one of two things. First, a $1500 vanos replacement!!! or just a reprograming of my DME. Further symptoms were the opening and closing of my front windows upon opening and closing of the doors. This, when brought to the dealer for the Inspection II, was found to just be the DME software. The programing was replaced (for free, being included in the service) and problem fixed. Since then, in the same weather, no more dipping of the RPM needle. All good now. If I didn't have the Inspection II service, the reprograming would've come to $100 +/- .

Hope this gives you some insight,

Dough

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#10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 11:51 PM
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I have the same problem with my car. I haven't really been worried about being that it goes away after the car is warmed up. If it is the VANOS unit causing it, will it cause any other problems? My car isn't under warranty and I don't have $1500 to spend on what seems like a little problem.
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#11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2006, 11:37 PM
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Hey Guys I am stuck with that problem for a long time found vanos unit bad and replaced but electrical is killing me whenever i open or close windows or put a load idle will go up and down even if i change from N to P or D to R since its automatic ...... i have no idea what it is but what SOFTWARE UPGRADE you guys are talking about maybe i should try that now ???? please let me know what it is exactly thanx ....or what you think it could be causing that problem ???
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#12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2006, 08:30 PM
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the fluctuating idle is one of two things... 1. cold lifters. very common especially for 'teenage' bmws that live in the cold weather. number 2. is my favorite, the vanos control unit. as far as that sporatic load under idle, i would checked the alternator output first. how many miles on the car?
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#13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2006, 10:20 PM
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More commonly than not in our area is a combo of the Crapy oxygenated fuel and the platnum plugs...typically our suggestion is as follows for our customers try replacing your plugs for the winter or stepping one grade down in fuel..problem should disapear. I had the same thing happen in my BRAND NEW 2005 330xi (and it wasn't some dam vanos control unit) tried the lower fuel once then just kept her in the warm garage at night. No more stalling

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#14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 01:46 PM
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Guys. My car does the same thing when cool or cold
and started for the first time. I store my car in winter
but I don't have this idle problem during warm weather.
I don't understand how cool/cold temps affect the vanos
unit. If this vanos unit doesn't work properly, won't you
have this problem all the time? Can someone explain to
me how this vanos system operates and what affect
cold temperatures have with it's operation.
Thanks
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#15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2006, 05:34 PM
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the vanos system is a variable camshaft timing device, it is used to advance and retard timing due to different driving/running conditions. the vanos unit is also run by oil pressure. (so if anyone tells you that you need to bleed the vanos, they are pullin your leg!) if your vanos is starting to fail/bind it will be very prevolent in colder temperatures, especially if your cars temp. is cold as well (cold oil + faulting vanos unit = quick drops in idle while warming up, sometimes stalling out completely) because the dme advances the timing when attempting to get the car up to NOT (normal opperating temp), a binding vanos unit and cold thick sludgey oil will not go well together, and the unit will keep the timing advanced when it shouldnt be, causing the car to sputter.

as far as the warm garage goes, you just canceled out the sludgey oil effect, but very nice in keepin the bimmer happy!
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