Caliper Replacement How To?

[masshoff]

Hello Forum,

I have a 99 323i. I've had a warped rotor issue and now that spring is here i'm planning on replacing the pads and rotors. have found seceral how-to's and am all set there.

recently developed a sticky caliper on the right front wheel - so i would like to replace teh front calipers as well while i am under the car. But - i haven't been able to locate any how to's on this.

Any one know of any? Best to get a Bently's manual? I'm really hoping to avoid the crazy labor costs i'd have to pay at a shop. I'm mechanicly inclined and have done some work on cars in the past but never on the brakes. biggest concern is the need for any specific tools, disconnecting of lines and how much if any fluid should i drain off before doing this.

thanks in advance,

Mike

[njtech]

Mike,
If you haven't worked on the brake system before, I suggest you take it to a shop. It is the most important part of your car.

[bad man working]

I agree with the first reply to an extent but if you're doing discs and pads anyway you're halfway there, as you have to unbolt the calliper to change the disc.

1. Clamp the flexible hose going to the calliper (get a proper brake hose clamp and don't over tighten it grips can damage the hose).
2. Before you slacken the 2-mounting bolt take a 14 mm open-end spanner and crack the hose fitting where is goes into the calliper.
3. Now remove the 2 mounting bolts and pull back the calliper.
4. Now spin the calliper off the end of the hose and fit the new one.
5. After you have renewed the disc refit the calliper-mounting bolt and (important) tighten to correct torque.
6. Now tighten the brake hose into the calliper this should also be tightened to a torque but you'd need special tools for that. Don't over tighten this or it'll snap.
7. Open the bleed nipple over a bowl and remove the clamp, let the fluid run though until no more air can be seen. Tighten the nipple (not to tight)
8. Repeat 1 – 7 on the other side.
9. Check and top-up if require. (Only use brake fluid as stated the master cylinder cap)
10. With the aid if assistant open the bleed nipple on the calliper that’s furthest away from the master cylinder. With the nipple open by ½ a turn ask your assistant to slowly depress the brake pedal (the pedal should be pressed only as far as it would normally travel an further may damage the rubbers in the master cylinder). Your assistant should now hold the pedal down until you close the nipple. Repeat 3 or 4 times on both callipers.
11. You must now test the system first press the brake pedal there shouldn't be excess travel and the pedal should not creep down at all. If it does repeat bleeding as item 10
12. Now with the engine running and your assistants pressing hard on the brake pedal check the whole system for leaks.

If at any time you have ant uncertainty please get someone who knows to help you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[the46]

ok after all that how do you get the in dash indicator light to turn off??

[zzzzzer]

Doesn't the brake pad sensor control the light? I know I had to have mine replaced w/ the pads and rotors. Pretty cheap part, though -- $13 (US) if I'm not mistaken.

The indicator light, though, didn't go off until I drove the car about 300 miles to Florida. I have no idea why and neither did the BMW "specialist" who performed the brake job. Great job on the brakes but next time I'm just taking it to the dealer and spending the extra $100. Less frustration.

Good luck.

[STEP child]

to take off the brake lining light leave the key in position 2 (click right before start, all dash lights will come on also) for 20-30 seconds. this will only work if you have a new brake warning wire. do this after your pads and wire are replaced and you are good to go.