3-Series (E46, E90)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1999 to Current. Models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318Ci, BMW 320i, BMW 323i, BMW 325i, BMW 330i, BMW 328 Ci, BMW 328i, BMW 325i/xi, BMW 330Ci, BMW 320d, BMW 330d, BMW 335d.
Well so finally after 22 K my brake light finally came on.......and i did a search of the forum and got that i had at least about 500 miles before I am in the danger mark. I have scheduled a appointment with a local BMW mechanic (not the dealer) next week......but i was wondering if other places like MIDAS and DOBBS etc will do brakes for Bimmers...or is it not advisable? Also do i need to change the rotors always or just the pads and sensor? Finally will the guy know which pads are gone front or rear? and can i change just the fronts now or rears and then the other later?
I've never done them on a bimmer before (just had mine for a month) but disk brakes are very easy to do yourself. Might as well save the $$ and do it yourself and have the self-satisfaction. The only thing I would be worried about (or should I say concerned) is re-setting the sensor. I'm interested in what these guys have to say myself...
__________________ Ari Cohen
2002 BMW 325i
dude its so much cheaper to change them yourself it takes about an hour to do the front brake's i saved about 300 bucks doing them myself. I got the pads rotors and sensor from bavauto for 189.00 the sensor light will go out on the dash when you put the new sensor on. hope this helps ya. good luck.
Thanks for the replies guys but not being a gear head.......and never even having done anything under the hood of a car besides looking.....i dont think I have the necessary tools or the expertise to change the pads myself....I am certain. Anyways the main info i wanted was do i really need to change my rotors everytime i change the pads???? How can i decided that. Just so that the tech doesnt screw me on that. By the way the place i take it to is nice enough to let me buy the parts so I have bought the pads and sensors from Bavauto. But the rotors are considerably more expensive and i was hoping to not have to do them this time. Any input on rotors would be appreciated. thanks again for the replies.....love this place.
You can get the rotors turned by the shop thats what you should probably do since you dont have many miles on your car. If you do get some shake in your wheel when you stop your rotors might be warped then you should get new rotors some people say you cant turn bmw rotors. that is not true at all. Just stick with the pads and sensor for now rotors later down the road. hope that helps man
is your car still under warranty? If so, then I would have the dealer take care of this for you. My light came on last month and being still under warranty, they replaced my pads and rotors. Didn't cost anything.
I got the caliper retention bolts off, but the caliper won't "wiggle" it's way off the rotor. I have a feeling the piston might be pressured in... by turning the bleeder screw, will I release the pressure at that caliper? Also, I'm assuming I'll be releasing some brake fluid by turning the bleeder... will the lines be OK so long as the reservoir is full?
Need help ASAP guys, I have maybe 3 more days of driving with the sensor light on before I have to take it into a brake shop and pay $150 for them to do it.
See thats why i paid 150$ to get it done professionally. Personally i dont think its worth the hassle....lol. But thats just me. Specially with the brakes thats life and death.....i dont think unless i am a mechanic I am gonna touch them. There is a huge difference from changing an airfilter and the things that keep you on the road.
Now regarding your problem. I read in some DIY that you have to release the tension on the calipers using a C-clamp until it releases. You have to remember to unscrew the brake reservoir cap slightly to allow for the back flow of the fluid. The C-clamp can be purchase at any home depot or auto zone. Hope this helps.
Just finished the rear axle brake pad replacement. For those who find it difficult to remove the caliper once the guide bolts are removed, here's what I found:
The piston must be depressurized. The piston rests in the cylinder shape of your calipers. If you're looking at the middle of the caliper, there will be a rubber boot around the piston. Open the bleeder valve and insert a flat-head screw driver between the pad and the tapered end of the rubber boot (be careful not to puncture the boot)... you should have contact with metal at this point... if not, DON'T PUSH, readjust the screwdriver to find that metal contact. With the bleeder open, leverage the screwdriver against the caliper, forcing the piston in, and watch the brake fluid come out. Eventually, you'll be loose enough to wiggle the caliper off freely. Now, force the piston the rest of the way in by hand. Close the bleeder valve, insert new pads into caliper, and replace caliper on rotor. You'll need to pump the brakes once or twice to pressurize the system, but that was my only snag with this experience.
Also, the C-clamp won't fit in the space the screwdriver head must fit. You also can't just unscrew the brake reservoir cap to relieve pressure, it must be locally relieved from a bleeder at each wheel (the pressure is too great to force the entire system to back up into the reservoir).
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