Brake Sensor Light - BMW Forum

Kulbiker · 01-30-2006, 01:35 PM

Well so finally after 22 K my brake light finally came on.......and i did a search of the forum and got that i had at least about 500 miles before I am in the danger mark. I have scheduled a appointment with a local BMW mechanic (not the dealer) next week......but i was wondering if other places like MIDAS and DOBBS etc will do brakes for Bimmers...or is it not advisable? Also do i need to change the rotors always or just the pads and sensor? Finally will the guy know which pads are gone front or rear? and can i change just the fronts now or rears and then the other later?

thanks for the heads up.

Ocean02 · 01-30-2006, 06:14 PM

I've never done them on a bimmer before (just had mine for a month) but disk brakes are very easy to do yourself. Might as well save the $$ and do it yourself and have the self-satisfaction. The only thing I would be worried about (or should I say concerned) is re-setting the sensor. I'm interested in what these guys have to say myself...

///M Power · 01-30-2006, 08:39 PM

Basically any place can change your pads for you. Even yourself. No worries.

Satori325XI · 01-31-2006, 08:32 AM

I actually just replaced rear brakes. Did it in the driveway. The sensor wires snap in real easy.

Does anyone know if autozone will reset BMW brake sensor codes?

westy323is · 01-31-2006, 03:19 PM

dude its so much cheaper to change them yourself it takes about an hour to do the front brake's i saved about 300 bucks doing them myself. I got the pads rotors and sensor from bavauto for 189.00 the sensor light will go out on the dash when you put the new sensor on. hope this helps ya. good luck.

Kulbiker · 01-31-2006, 03:26 PM

Thanks for the replies guys but not being a gear head.......and never even having done anything under the hood of a car besides looking.....i dont think I have the necessary tools or the expertise to change the pads myself....I am certain. Anyways the main info i wanted was do i really need to change my rotors everytime i change the pads???? How can i decided that. Just so that the tech doesnt screw me on that. By the way the place i take it to is nice enough to let me buy the parts so I have bought the pads and sensors from Bavauto. But the rotors are considerably more expensive and i was hoping to not have to do them this time. Any input on rotors would be appreciated. thanks again for the replies.....love this place.

westy323is · 01-31-2006, 03:32 PM

You can get the rotors turned by the shop thats what you should probably do since you dont have many miles on your car. If you do get some shake in your wheel when you stop your rotors might be warped then you should get new rotors some people say you cant turn bmw rotors. that is not true at all. Just stick with the pads and sensor for now rotors later down the road. hope that helps man

325isBaby · 01-31-2006, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Satori325XI

I actually just replaced rear brakes. Did it in the driveway. The sensor wires snap in real easy.

Does anyone know if autozone will reset BMW brake sensor codes?

brake sensor codes? if you just leave the key in the on position the light will go off on it's own once the sensor tests...there is no code to reset

Kulbiker · 02-01-2006, 04:09 PM

Okay i just saw this deal on performanceparts.com

ATE Front 2 Blank (solid) rotors

BREMBO Rear 2 Blank (solid) rotors

Front and Rear Axxis Performance Pads

Front and Rear Sensors

300$ Shipped.

Is this a good deal and i have heard solid rotors are better than the drilled or slotted rotors.....i dont do track or fast driving at all. Just work home and etc.

Anybody know a good site where they have a DIY for brakes in a Bimmer?

AZ325Ci · 02-02-2006, 07:01 AM

is your car still under warranty? If so, then I would have the dealer take care of this for you. My light came on last month and being still under warranty, they replaced my pads and rotors. Didn't cost anything.

Hootie · 02-07-2006, 02:22 PM

DIY for bimmer brakes

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...t=brake+change

Hootie · 02-09-2006, 02:08 PM

OK, issue with the brake replacement:

I got the caliper retention bolts off, but the caliper won't "wiggle" it's way off the rotor. I have a feeling the piston might be pressured in... by turning the bleeder screw, will I release the pressure at that caliper? Also, I'm assuming I'll be releasing some brake fluid by turning the bleeder... will the lines be OK so long as the reservoir is full?

Need help ASAP guys, I have maybe 3 more days of driving with the sensor light on before I have to take it into a brake shop and pay $150 for them to do it.

Kulbiker · 02-10-2006, 10:58 AM

See thats why i paid 150$ to get it done professionally. Personally i dont think its worth the hassle....lol. But thats just me. Specially with the brakes thats life and death.....i dont think unless i am a mechanic I am gonna touch them. There is a huge difference from changing an airfilter and the things that keep you on the road.

Now regarding your problem. I read in some DIY that you have to release the tension on the calipers using a C-clamp until it releases. You have to remember to unscrew the brake reservoir cap slightly to allow for the back flow of the fluid. The C-clamp can be purchase at any home depot or auto zone. Hope this helps.

Hootie · 02-10-2006, 11:14 PM

Just finished the rear axle brake pad replacement. For those who find it difficult to remove the caliper once the guide bolts are removed, here's what I found:

The piston must be depressurized. The piston rests in the cylinder shape of your calipers. If you're looking at the middle of the caliper, there will be a rubber boot around the piston. Open the bleeder valve and insert a flat-head screw driver between the pad and the tapered end of the rubber boot (be careful not to puncture the boot)... you should have contact with metal at this point... if not, DON'T PUSH, readjust the screwdriver to find that metal contact. With the bleeder open, leverage the screwdriver against the caliper, forcing the piston in, and watch the brake fluid come out. Eventually, you'll be loose enough to wiggle the caliper off freely. Now, force the piston the rest of the way in by hand. Close the bleeder valve, insert new pads into caliper, and replace caliper on rotor. You'll need to pump the brakes once or twice to pressurize the system, but that was my only snag with this experience.

Also, the C-clamp won't fit in the space the screwdriver head must fit. You also can't just unscrew the brake reservoir cap to relieve pressure, it must be locally relieved from a bleeder at each wheel (the pressure is too great to force the entire system to back up into the reservoir).

ilovenicotine · 06-23-2006, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kulbiker

Okay i just saw this deal on performanceparts.com

300$ Shipped.

Is this a good deal and i have heard solid rotors are better than the drilled or slotted rotors.....i dont do track or fast driving at all. Just work home and etc.

stopshopanddrive.com has everything you need for $275 otd.

Brembo Rotors front and rear
PBR metal masters, (way lower brake dust then stock)
sensors
$275.40 shipped to CA (i think they charge sales tax in NJ)

here's exactly what i got:

1 PEX BMW062878 34351164372 Rear Brake Pad Wear Sensor brake Sensor 9.01
1 PEX BMW062877 34351164371 Front Brake Pad Wear Sensor brake Sensor 10.36
1 PBR BMW072098 D499RM Rear Brake Pad Set metal Master brake Pads 31.45
1 PBR BMW072096 D498RM Front Brake Pad Set metal Master brake Pads 48.20
2 BREMBO BMW062934 34211165211 Rear Brake Disc vented 98.98 (vented does not mean slotted)
2 BREMBO BMW018591 34111160674 Front Brake Disc 77.40