aux fan keeps running??? - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E46, E90) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1999 to Current. Models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318Ci, BMW 320i, BMW 323i, BMW 325i, BMW 330i, BMW 328 Ci, BMW 328i, BMW 325i/xi, BMW 330Ci, BMW 320d, BMW 330d, BMW 335d.

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#1 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 12:05 AM
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aux fan keeps running???

i have a 2000 323i manual...and the aux in front of the radiator keeps running, the only way i can turn it off is by taking that connector off next to the radiator. has anyone had this issue b4 i would really appreciate the help.
thanks
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#2 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 12:15 AM
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I would say, that is what it is suppose to do. It is suppose to run till the engine cools off,
and then it will shut itself off. It will run for a while to keep the engine from getting too
hot after you shut the car off!!!! It has a thermostat on it.

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#3 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 12:27 AM
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but it never did shut off when i parked... i heard it come on, after like 2 hrs i came back to the car and the battery was dead.
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#4 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 01:04 AM
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I had a problem like this b 4 on a chevy, what I did was, I installed a toggle switch inside
on the dash, or, the kick panel, and ran it to the switch and just turned it off, and on at will. You probably have a bad switch.
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#5 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 11:50 AM
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cool b/c i dont want it to run the motor out...so that seems like a better idea.
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#6 (permalink) Old 03-19-2008, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saleem View Post
cool b/c i dont want it to run the motor out...so that seems like a better idea.
Yes, Saleem, with the switch, you can turn it off, and on at will.
What I did was, like in the summertime, I would just get in the habit of
turning it on while driving,[it cant hurt anything], and, like if I would go
into a store or something for a short time, I would just leave it on.
In the wintertime, you would not have to use it at all.
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#7 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008, 10:35 AM
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My 2000 323i just started doing the exact same thing a couple of days ago. I've done some searching and it seems that the temp sensor and relay are built into the variable speed electronics integrated into the fan. If one of these fails, it runs wide open like that. It also seems that this is a common problem with these fans and you have to replace the entire unit. I've been unplugging mine when I'm stopped for a prolonged period of time. I'm considering replacing it myself, but I haven't found a definitive answer regarding the part number to order or exact instructions regarding the swap. All I know is that most report a $400+ bill to have it repaired and I think the fan is a little over half. Anyone done this installation themselves? It looks like there is plenty of room to get it out and in without removing much, I'm just not sure of all the screw locations or the "gotchas" that you don't find out about until you dig in. Hopefully someone can save us the trouble of finding out the hard way?
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#8 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008, 11:42 AM
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Lightbulb

oo-lala... your model is the kind that does not use a fan relay....

Fan is controlled by the ECM, but i suggest you check the sensors that send the signals to the ECM. There are 2 namely:
1) refrigerant pressure sensor(for which the fan speed bases it's input); and,
2)radiator outlet temperature sensor(fan kicks in when it exceeds the preset temp)

quite possible, one of these isnt working correctly(stuck).
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tkt2rde View Post
My 2000 323i just started doing the exact same thing a couple of days ago. I've done some searching and it seems that the temp sensor and relay are built into the variable speed electronics integrated into the fan. If one of these fails, it runs wide open like that. It also seems that this is a common problem with these fans and you have to replace the entire unit. I've been unplugging mine when I'm stopped for a prolonged period of time. I'm considering replacing it myself, but I haven't found a definitive answer regarding the part number to order or exact instructions regarding the swap. All I know is that most report a $400+ bill to have it repaired and I think the fan is a little over half. Anyone done this installation themselves? It looks like there is plenty of room to get it out and in without removing much, I'm just not sure of all the screw locations or the "gotchas" that you don't find out about until you dig in. Hopefully someone can save us the trouble of finding out the hard way?
if the fan runs.. then it isn't the fan that's the problem... it's something else ;-)

...and NO, temp sensor is outboard. not integrated into the fan

Last edited by darkhorse737; 06-01-2008 at 12:21 PM. Reason: addendum
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#10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008, 03:47 PM
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The car belongs to my father-in-law, trying to help him out. I'm a little green when it comes to BMW. Can you point me in the right directions so far as locating those sensors.

Just to recap... the fan runs with the ignition off. The only way to stop it is to remove the connector, which has three wires. One is a ground, I assume the other two are signal wires from the ECU... one low-speed and one-high speed?

Why would the ECU be sending a signal with the ignition off?
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#11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008, 04:32 PM
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that is the way they are designed. they will continue to run for a time until the temp sensor "cools down"... to what ambient temp... i don't know at thsi time.

anywayz... if you face the engine from the front, radiator outlet temp sensor will be on the left of the radiator, by the hose that carries your coolant from radiator to the engine. That wd be my frst suspect.
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#12 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 08:54 PM
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Thanks Darkhorse, I quickly found the temp sensor.

With the key off... fan running, I unplugged the fan.

I unplugged the temp sensor, then plugged in the fan... fan runs on high.

I jumper'd the plug for the temp senseor... fan still runs on high.

On the fan harness:
1. Large RED/BLUE = 12v
2. Large BROWN = ground
3. Small Black/Green = no voltage present ?Temp Sensor?

On the Temp Sensor harness:
1. small Black/Green = no voltage present
2. small Black = no voltage present

Also, probably of significance... although my father-in-law swears it's a 2000 model... the VIN says it was born in April of 1999. And did I mention it's a manual transmission?

I really appreciate your help.
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#13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 11:18 PM
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A simple fix. It won't run without a ground. Get a toggle switch, mount it wherever,
is convenient, run a wire from the toggle switch to the ground wire{cut ground wire,
and splice it to the wire from the toggle switch}. It will also work if you find the hot
wire and splice it instead of the ground. The reason I said ground, is because you
said you have 2 speeds. This way, you can turn it off and on whenever. That is what
I did with a Chevy. I had. In the winter time you can leave it off.
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#14 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkt2rde View Post
Thanks Darkhorse, I quickly found the temp sensor.

With the key off... fan running, I unplugged the fan.

I unplugged the temp sensor, then plugged in the fan... fan runs on high.

I jumper'd the plug for the temp senseor... fan still runs on high.

On the fan harness:
1. Large RED/BLUE = 12v
2. Large BROWN = ground
3. Small Black/Green = no voltage present ?Temp Sensor?

On the Temp Sensor harness:
1. small Black/Green = no voltage present
2. small Black = no voltage present

Also, probably of significance... although my father-in-law swears it's a 2000 model... the VIN says it was born in April of 1999. And did I mention it's a manual transmission?

I really appreciate your help.
ok. having done that, you've ruled out the radiator outlet sensor & the dan to be in working order. the prob isn't in any of those two parts.

Lets move on and check "COOLANT TEMP SENSOR". am really not sure if u can reach the plug to disconnect and test, but it would be located the intake manifold in cylinder head of cylinder 6. You can do the same procedure. disconnect and see what happens.

and oh, when u do your test/s, make sure climate control/AC are off- that way you rule out the interference of the A/C circuitry... actaully, even try igniton ON, A/C ON; ignition OFF, A/C OFF - note any differences.

Let us know.

*1999 & 2000 = same everything

(Other than that, the only other fan control left to suspect is the IKHA module)
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#15 (permalink) Old 04-24-2010, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkt2rde View Post
Thanks Darkhorse, I quickly found the temp sensor.

With the key off... fan running, I unplugged the fan.

I unplugged the temp sensor, then plugged in the fan... fan runs on high.

I jumper'd the plug for the temp senseor... fan still runs on high.

On the fan harness:
1. Large RED/BLUE = 12v
2. Large BROWN = ground
3. Small Black/Green = no voltage present ?Temp Sensor?

On the Temp Sensor harness:
1. small Black/Green = no voltage present
2. small Black = no voltage present

Also, probably of significance... although my father-in-law swears it's a 2000 model... the VIN says it was born in April of 1999. And did I mention it's a manual transmission?

I really appreciate your help.
Did you ever fix this problem? I'm sure you did, since this is an old thread. I'm having the same problem in my 2000 328i. The fan won't turn off after i shut down the car. It killed the battery last night. Thanks for any advice!
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