2011 335i N55 Misfiring and Cant Enter Boost! - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com

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2011 335i N55 Misfiring and Cant Enter Boost!

I have a 2011 335i xdrive N55. I am 100% stock. i also have a thread on here if you would like to catch up on my issue. I am having a p0300 and p0301, p302 misfires.

I pulled my intake Manifold to do a carbon cleanup, I clean the intake valve carb cleaner and sucked it out with a vacuum once I put everything back together I started the car to make sure if there was any carb cleaner it was blown out, then I replaced all the spark plugs.

I took it for a test drive it anytime I enter boost or wide-open throttle it's sputters and hesitates and then the check engine light would come on.

I tried moving coils from the cylinders I got check engine lights from and it didn't fix anything.

So I just replaced all the ignition coils and I had the dealer do a smoke test to make sure I didn't have a leak. He said I passed the smoke test and there is no leak. The intake manifold studs and bolts didn't seem like they were holding torque all the way. I Torqued them to spec 11 foot-pounds. However while approaching a lot of foot-pounds seemed if I wanted to tighten more it would strip when it shouldn't fact just get tighter so I'm thinking the bolts are no good. However I still passed the smoke test.

The dealer was telling me I was getting some codes that were related to combustion errors.

So When I was doing the intake valve cleaning job I used a wrench to turn the crankshaft to close different cylinders valves. When I went in the car to reset the adaptations after i was finished I forgot about the wrench on the crank pulley.

And by accident I touch the brake pedal forgetting that the car would start like an idiot, the engine turned over maybe one turn and it knocked the wrench into the radiator hose and I heard a grinding sound like as if you miss shifted to gear on a manual transmission, or you try to start the car while it was already running, like the starter grinded for a second. It didn't sound that bad though. I don't know if this has anything to do with it.

I'm thinking it may have caused the timing to go off by the teeth skipping on the chain is this possible?

My next set of options is to clean the Vanos solenoids, replace them, them, or the injectors.

I have a weird feeling about this as one of the chances of something like this going on the car right after I clean the intake valves?

Also my ECUs due for an update could this fix the problem?

I know the ECUs connected to the intake manifold and I was cleaning the intake manifold with carb cleaners and well I don't know if cleaning the runners out would cause this problem.

I also clean the maf sensor and the sensor on the charge pipe by the throttle body with maf sensor cleaner.

The car will drive fine unless I'm in boost, every time I try and enter boost or go wide-open throttle the car sputters and and drives like crap. Tonight after changing the ignition coils and the engine cooling down I was able to enter boost a few times without too much of a problem but then the sputtering and the codes were thrown again.

I was also thinking about removing the injectors and cleaning them.

The dealer is willing to let me order the injectors and keep their loaner car, and when the injectors come in on Tuesday they're willing to let me come to the dealership and put the injectors and myself so I don't have to pay them for the labor.

EDIT: when I bought the car the oil was black and looked bad, It had been 20k since a oil change. I in turn used mobil 1 0w40. Could this be an issue or maybe bad gas? Also I just wanted to know. I removed the harness from the DME on the intake in order to remove the manifold it has to be unplugged. My battery was still connected and my FOBB was in the passenger seat. I am not sure if this means anything either. I also sprayed carb cleaner into that small port on the driver side that the hose goes between the manifold, up to the valve cover, if you are looking at the manifold from the driver size, its right behind and below the alternator. Its like a evap line or something.

I have included pictures, one of the intake off, another of before and after of the intake ports.

Also, I never removed the throttle body, or DME. I didnt want to break the seal.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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