3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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wow haven't been on the forums for a while. I was just wondering if the window switches light up on a 93 bmw 325is? I know that my sunroof switch lights up. Also if the window switches do light up, is there a way to replace the lights or do I have to replace the whole switch itself? It gets annoying when the passenger has to fumble around for the window switch during night driving. thanks to anyone that can help me out.
hahaha i posted about this like 2 days ago! only one of mine lights up and its on 24/7, key or no key, but thts another story all together. i replaced the other one and it still doesnt light up, there is a little led inside so i doubt that u can replace that. do yours go on when u turn the lights on or how? i never knew the sunroof one is ment to do it, mine doesnt. do your front ones light up too?
i only have front window switches. my car is an is. but yea my window switches don't light up at all with the lights on or off. how ever the sunroof switch lights up with the lights on or off which is weird.
Short version: they DO light up (all of them)...or, at least, they should!
Long version: When I got my '93. 325i, only driver's window switch was lit-up. Other 5 (3 on center console + 2 in rear doors) didn't, so I started "the project". The first thing I've learnt is that only driver's window switch had LED (switch with auto roll function) working at something like 3.5 - 4V (3mm one...)...all other switches ("old school" - no auto roll fuction) had (blown) 12V, also 3mm, but actual BULBS (that needed un-soldering, of course). (Btw, this thing about "only driver's window switch being with auto roll function, and others NOT" is NORMAL for '93. models). So, I got some 12V orange "bulbs", replaced blown ones and....YES! Now, all window switches are lit-up! Obvious reason for this is that those are actually bulbs, and they've got shorter life span against LEDs, so it's kinda usual to see that only driver's window switch "light" is still working. Another normal thing and "obvious reason" for blowing of these "bulbs" is that they are ALWAYS lit-up in these "situations": when interior light is lit-up and when key is in all but "position 0" in ignition (NO, this doesn't depend on headlight switch - they should ALWAYS be lit-up).
This is really easy DIY project (if you know basics of soldering) and it really isn't expensive - those 12V, 3mm "colored" bulbs are really cheap. It doesn't take a lot of time, either. Satisfaction "at the end of a day" is great, also! One thing bothers me, tho (but I think I can solve this too): in all switches but driver's one are 12V bulbs, but LED operate at 3.5-4V, so driver's one is somewhat dimmed compared to all others (all others are brighter)...soooooo...I thought of putting those very small resistors "in line" with "bulbs", just to bring voltage at bulbs at something like 9V or so, in which case they should be as bright (actually dimmed) as that LED in driver's switch...I think that might work...
ok so ur saying that originally all the switches are light up with LED's, except the drivers one has a little orange bulb? or the other way around? because in my rear door the switch definatelly had an LED in it!
ok so ur saying that originally all the switches are light up with LED's, except the drivers one has a little orange bulb? or the other way around? because in my rear door the switch definatelly had an LED in it!
Hmmmmm....the other way around!
Are you SURE it was a LED?! 'Cause this "bulb" really looks like a LED, the same shape and everything...and since (I think) you have been openning it, did it have a circuit board, like this one:
or just "mechanical type" switches inside (unlike "microswitches" like in the pic. above), and what was the color of the base...and was the lower portion "conector type", like this one:
or "fat pin" like this one:
i never went as far as opening it to the circuit board but im definatelly sure its the blue one, so the last picture. ill have a look later tnite and let u know about the led or switch. i'd be happy if it was a blub. what is the difference in all those switches? man i never knew there was so much stuff in a little switch, no wonder bmw's cost as much as they do.
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One thing bothers me, tho (but I think I can solve this too): in all switches but driver's one are 12V bulbs, but LED operate at 3.5-4V, so driver's one is somewhat dimmed compared to all others (all others are brighter)...soooooo...I thought of putting those very small resistors "in line" with "bulbs", just to bring voltage at bulbs at something like 9V or so, in which case they should be as bright (actually dimmed) as that LED in driver's switch...I think that might work... 
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