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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-20-2005, 02:02 PM
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So...when I bought my '93 325i, the mechanic i had check it out told me that the rear window didn't work. Ok, whatever, it's 12 years old, shit happens. I figured the motor was shot because when i push the button for that window to go down, i didn't hear any sound whatsoever (it could also have been other things, but I went with the motor). I found a used motor on ebay for $30 (shippedw/regulator). So I take my door panel off and I look at the old motor. The wiring is unclipped. So...I clip the wiring back to the motor, turn the key and roll the window down like a charm. YAY! so I go to roll the window back up, and nothing. not even a sound from the motor. What do I do?? I don't know how to remove the pop rivets either. I've read on the forum you have to "drill them out"?? how do I do that? what kind of drill do I need? I hate electrical shit. let me know if you can help.
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-20-2005, 06:21 PM
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Hi mate,

I'm by no means an expert but did you buy the motor off ebay? I would try wireing up your second motor just to test the switch. If you connect your new motor and you can get that motor to go up and down then you know its your motor. If that doesn't work then it may well be the switch itself? That's what i would do next anyway.

As for the pop rivets when ever i have drilled them out i just get a normal drill and a drill bit slightly larger than the hole on the head of the pop rivet drill through that and the pop rivet so come off.

Hope that's of some help

Dan
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-21-2005, 02:48 AM
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did you try simply popping out the switch/cleaning it up?.... everytime I've similar window problems ( in 2 E30s and 1 E36), it was due to corroded electrodes on the switches...

Sorry if that was kind of a dumb question... just thought I'd share

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#4 (permalink) Old 02-21-2005, 01:46 PM
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Actually, as stupid as I feel ::: (<--swallowing pride) it turned out to be the switch. Just like some one said, I put the plug coming from the switch into the new motor and pressed the down button. The rm on the regulator went down. So what my dad did (he's a double E, i'm just a lowly programmer) is he reversed the polarity on themotor in my door using an old battery we had lying around to put it back up in the mean time. Then I put the switch in question onto a window that i knew to work and viola! suddenly that window started acting the same way. So...i cleaned the connections to the switch and now it works just fine. BUT as it turns out, the child lock button or whatever it is that turns off the back window switches to keep kids from playing with it, appears to be stuck in the Lock position. I haven't done an exhustive search yet, but i haven't been able to find where i can get a new one online (i don't want to go to the Stealer).


Also, for the pop rivets, I will be needing to replace the FRONT regulator (i bought a rear one thinking that was the problem) because when i went in there to see why the front window was falling into the door, I found that the arm was bent (i think because my glass gets stuck pretty easy. I'll need to figure out why the glass gets stuck so hard on the way up. So...actually the pop rivets tip was helpful. Though, does the drill have to be of a certain voltage or anything like that? And I assume the bit should be a bit rated for metal or something like that? Thanks for the help so far guys, you're great.
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-21-2005, 01:50 PM
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ok...so when i type gulp, i didn't know it would draw the guinness icon. oh well. Cheers!
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