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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-20-2007, 08:37 AM
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what torque wrench to use?

I am doing the headgasket on my e36 325i and need advise to what torque wrench to use. Someone help me with a link or something?
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-20-2007, 09:02 AM
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Are you looking for a ft-lb setting or are you looking for what millimeter of wrench to use?



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#3 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavauto
I am doing the headgasket on my e36 325i and need advise to what torque wrench to use. Someone help me with a link or something?
full on head gasket? or do you mean valve cover gasket?
i only ask because a torque wrench question is elementary if you're tackling something as advanced as a head gasket.

nevertheless, i don't know the head torque specs off hand, but as a general rule, torque wrenches are most accurate near the middle of their range. So if your job requires 75 ft-lb, you'd use a wrench rated around 150 ft-lb or so, give or take.

if it happens to be the valve cover gasket, if i remember correctly you'll need one that measures in inch-lb.

i use craftsman clicker style (sorry no link) and nothing has blown up yet. if you are rolling in $$, most of the full time mechanics i know use snap-on.

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#4 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesmoBob
full on head gasket? or do you mean valve cover gasket?
i only ask because a torque wrench question is elementary if you're tackling something as advanced as a head gasket.

nevertheless, i don't know the head torque specs off hand, but as a general rule, torque wrenches are most accurate near the middle of their range. So if your job requires 75 ft-lb, you'd use a wrench rated around 150 ft-lb or so, give or take.

if it happens to be the valve cover gasket, if i remember correctly you'll need one that measures in inch-lb.

i use craftsman clicker style (sorry no link) and nothing has blown up yet. if you are rolling in $$, most of the full time mechanics i know use snap-on.

couldnt have put it any better than Bob

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#5 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 01:22 AM
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craftsman is better. about half the techs at my last dealership used snap on, half used craftsman.. alot switched from snapon to craftsman because you can just return any craftsman tool (except, heh, torque wrenches) at any time with no receipt to a local sears for replacement..snap on warranties are harder to get, warrantied. if you use tools alot, you'll break them. ive gone through countless sockets, wrenches, etc.

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#6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2007, 07:26 AM
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I bought a craftsman clicker type. I hope nothing goes wrong with the head bolts. Also, I can't get the damn flywheel locking tool inplace and my intake manifold is already on. I don't really need the flywheel locking tool to do the alignment do I? Also, as I was tightening the water pump pulley, I accidentally turned the crank like 30 degrees clockwise on my e36 325i w/vanos. I didn't here any type of damaging noise, but it has me scared. Do you think I may of bent some valves? How much effort on my part would I need to bend the valves by pulling on the crank? Also what type of noise would it make?
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