vibrations - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
BMW Forum BMW Forum

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E36)
Register Home Forum Active Topics Gallery / Showroom Auto Loans Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance

3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

BimmerWerkz.com is the premier BMW Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-02-2004, 05:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
1st Gear Member
 
Rich328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: England
Car:
Posts: 180
Photos:
Rich328 is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via MSN to Rich328
I've got this problem which i keep asing for answers on...... so can anyone help me

the problem is.

when im braking in my car, the steering wheel vibrates......... and also when your coming to a stop in the car you can feel the brakes as if its oval? not completly flat is what im trying to say - its as if the brake discs have some unequal parts on them.

any ideas?
Rich328 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-02-2004, 08:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
You Can Has A Custom Title!!
 
BMWBeauty416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tulsa, OK
Car: '00 M-B CLK430 Cabriolet
Posts: 4,872
Photos:
BMWBeauty416 is a name known to allBMWBeauty416 is a name known to allBMWBeauty416 is a name known to allBMWBeauty416 is a name known to allBMWBeauty416 is a name known to allBMWBeauty416 is a name known to all
Send a message via AIM to BMWBeauty416 Send a message via MSN to BMWBeauty416 Send a message via Yahoo to BMWBeauty416
go have your brake disks turned new pads and an alignment that might/should fix it and tell me how it goes
~*Teg*~
__________________
BMWBeauty416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 09:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
1st Gear Member
 
Rich328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: England
Car:
Posts: 180
Photos:
Rich328 is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via MSN to Rich328
do you think its just the front discs mate? or could it be the back ones?
Rich328 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 10:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
/Banned
 
xsperf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Car:
Posts: 963
Photos:
xsperf is an unknown quantity at this point
yes dude, ur rotors, or brake discs are warped, if a some are warped, just replace all of them, and ur pads too, unless u did that recently
xsperf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 10:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
1st Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Car:
Posts: 205
Photos:
nycbmw325is is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally posted by BMWbeauty416@Sep 2 2004, 08:59 AM
go have your brake disks turned new pads and an alignment that might/should fix it and tell me how it goes
~*Teg*~
While i would turn rotors on my own personal car.. Doesn't BMW advise against turning rotors? I know a lot of other forums also say to replace them becuase THER BMW rotors are very prone to warping under the best of conditions and turning only exacerbates the problem.
nycbmw325is is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 11:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Poquoson, VA
Car:
Posts: 591
Photos:
Bear is an unknown quantity at this point
Rotors (discs) first, and maybe they can be turned and maybe not. Next the control arm bushings and ball joints.
Bear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 04:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Car:
Posts: 628
Photos:
wulley1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Since I am in the process of replacing my braking system, I'll give you this advice. It is usually financially smarter to replace the factory OEM rotors than to "turn" them. "Turning" usually costs about $20-$30 per rotor. I priced out factory replacements to be $40 (each) for the front and $30 for the back.

Since it's only about $10 more to buy new ones, you might as well replace them. A new rotor will last a lot longer than a turned rotor.
wulley1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 04:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
1st Gear Member
 
Rich328's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: England
Car:
Posts: 180
Photos:
Rich328 is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via MSN to Rich328
As seen as you've all be v.helpful maybe you can solve my next problem i have.

The car seems to have a rattle underneath it - firstly i thought it was the catalytic convertor - so i had it spot welded. But the rattle is still there - its nothing to do with the cat...

any ideas?
Rich328 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 07:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Car:
Posts: 628
Photos:
wulley1 is an unknown quantity at this point
It seems like a lot of people complain about a rattle from underneath their cars. I have one that comes from the rear and can't figure out what it is either.
wulley1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 07:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
Threadkiller
 
bitcore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: High Point, NC
Car:
Posts: 2,907
Photos:
bitcore will become famous soon enoughbitcore will become famous soon enough
Send a message via ICQ to bitcore Send a message via AIM to bitcore Send a message via MSN to bitcore
Get new ones. It's silly to re-machine the rotors and grind down the disc when you can just get some fresh ones and be good for another 150,000+ miles. Rotors wear out too, not just pads. So, it'd be like milling off a couple milimeters of your brake pads to eaven them out, just get some new ones.

Warpage is usually caused when a hot rotor gets uneavenly splashed with cool water, EX: from a carwash. Sometimes it's caused by extreme driving conditions, which I have yet to hit

The rattle could be caused by a loose heat shield. I have the rattle in the middle of the car, at low RPMS, it resonates and rattles like a bitch. I havn't visually confirmed it yet, but that could be your cause, and the welder may not have noticed.
__________________

bitcore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 08:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
Been here a while.
 
97alpineM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Virginia
Car: Blah
Posts: 5,375
Photos:
97alpineM3 is a name known to all97alpineM3 is a name known to all97alpineM3 is a name known to all97alpineM3 is a name known to all97alpineM3 is a name known to all97alpineM3 is a name known to all
Send a message via AIM to 97alpineM3 Send a message via MSN to 97alpineM3
Yes... warped rotors are caused by extrem changes in temperature...

I had this happen to me on one of my favorite back roads about a year ago... I was giving her all she had on a small straight away... and was quickly coming to a rather sharp left turn.. depressed the brakes... felt the result.. and started to release the brakes.. and my left front brake locked up on me.. for about 10 feet... scared the shit out of me.. but thank god it still let me push the car to the left a little before it let up.

BMW's rotors are made so that the brand new part will have a certain time interval untill they are out of specs. Durring that time.. the composition of the material is made in such a way that it is very unlikely to warp or break apart. When they get out of specifications they are more prone to warp and break due the less material to absorb temperature changes. Simple actually. Dont mill them down or you will be even more prone to warpage and the such.

Get new ones.

les
__________________

1997 E36 M3 1990 E30 325i
97alpineM3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 08:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
Threadkiller
 
bitcore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: High Point, NC
Car:
Posts: 2,907
Photos:
bitcore will become famous soon enoughbitcore will become famous soon enough
Send a message via ICQ to bitcore Send a message via AIM to bitcore Send a message via MSN to bitcore
In other words, thinner metals are more prone to warp than thicker metals.
__________________

bitcore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 08:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
1st Gear Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Boston
Car:
Posts: 166
Photos:
theogill is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via MSN to theogill
i'll also be getting new rotors/pads soon--same issue.

Also, re: rattle. mine had the heat shield removed already, but a nasty loud rattle coming from one of the weld points. my local mechanic stuck a hose clamp around the loose spot weld and voila, noise gone. simple, yet genius. hope you have an issue thgat can thus fixed
ted
__________________
98 328i, black/black, manual, canadian sport pkg, ECIS intake, koni sport adj's, dinan springs, oe/oem clears.
Considering: tms shark,M 17" wheels, larger sway bars.
theogill is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E36)


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Loss Of Power And Vibrations While Accelerating mozartean 3-Series (E46, E90) 4 10-26-2005 02:19 PM
Vibrations mysticguy04 3-Series (E21, E30) 8 08-30-2005 10:53 AM
Braking Vibrations mssoetaert 5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) 4 08-18-2005 10:49 AM
Shifting Vibrations SpeedInfusion 3-Series (E36) 2 10-29-2004 03:14 PM
vibrations Rich328 3-Series (E36) 4 08-11-2004 08:45 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:12 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.