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3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.
Originally posted by abemcclellan@Jan 31 2005, 01:05 AM check all fluids and levels. replace spark plugs and connectors, maybe your o2 sensor, check for vacuum leaks, air filter, etc
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bmw's def have more that 1 o2 sensor.. your gunna need to be a little more exact on that!
and define ect....???( i know u meant excetra) but what is excetra
what i meant by "etc", was like check for any leaks like oil, coolant, power steering fluid, basic stuff like that. depending on your milage you might want to change your fuel filter too. and check your microfilter inside the cabin.
Well, if you check your owner's manual it will tell you what BMW checks for.
But basically mcclellan has a start.
I would change the oil (possibly diff, trany, coolant and brake fluids as well if it's been awhile), change the air filter, micro filter (for inside air), fuel filter, spark plugs, and throw a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank and you are good to go.
Cruzin, if you car is a 6 cyl. it has 4 O2 sensors. You could replace these but they are quite expensive. I'd only replace them if you need to.
I agree with checking all the fluids and such. The inspection 2 tuneup(every 35,000 miles i believe) is a change od spark plugs, fluid level check and replace(oil, differential, transmision), and checking all belts, plus replacing air filter and clean air filter. The clean air filter is the micro filter for the air coming into the cabin. I also believe that if you are doing it all yourself you can look around there are some kits that come with everything you need and you can get an idea as to what exactly you should be checking.
This is a link to a site with a kit. Not saying to get this kit, but it may be cheaper all in one, I don't really know.
Oh yeah, i had my tune-up done by a bmw and volvo specialist here in kansas city and it cost me around $500, the dealer wanted $860 for the same thing, i am not the most mechanically inclined and don't have alot of time, but if you can do it yourself that kit is like $200. Although i would get a better air filter "green" or "k&n".
When I want to check for leaks, I put down a few long sheets of fax paper. It's cheap, clean white, and one roll has lasted me about two years between the Bimmer and my old Taurus. Any drips show up easily.
__________________ Proud member of the 100,000 mile club
Proud member of the I Hate SUVs club
Originally posted by moe19x+Feb 1 2005, 10:20 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(moe19x @ Feb 1 2005, 10:20 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Cruzin 323is@Jan 31 2005, 04:12 PM thanks guys!!
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where is the micro filter located in me 98 e36?
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You'll need to remove the glove compartment for replacement of the microfilter. It is definitley worth changing. It gets dirty real fast and makes a world of difference on the climate contol system, especially the A/C. It is directly behind the center console.
For handling:
Bushings.
Bushings.
Bushings.
These things wear out and crack and become really loose and sloppy, allowing the suspinsion components to move where they arn't suppose to, which makes the car handle loose and sloppy.
LCA bushings make a nice difference, bal joints, rear trailing arm(bitch to replace), rear shock mounts, and even your sway bushings.
Then: Shocks shocks shocks. Get some fresh ones.
Yah, microfilter for your AC system, Airfilter for engine (you know that duh), replace your diff fluid and tranny fluid(and filter).
A nice radiator flush is good preventive matinence. Fuel filter is relitively simple and cheep to replace. Run some fuel injector cleaner through a tank that's low on gas to give the engine a little cleanout too.
Sparks, windshield wiper blades, if you've got $200 laying around, your o2 sensors.
Bleed your brakes, even better would be to do a full brakeline flush with a pressure bleeder and a diferent color brakefluid to know that you've fully bled the lines for each caliper.
Preformance brake pads (not track, preformance street like Hawk HPS [they take about 3 35mph stops to get up to decent oporating temps and really start biting and after that they are amazing. {that's normal, preformance brakes don't work until the rotors get warm}])
New rotors for front and back (if you have grooves or they arn't thick enough, replace them.)
Adjust your parking brakes.
Replace driveline guibo.
Rain-x dude... Rain-x all your exterior glass and mirrors... Pimp.
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