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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 01-16-2004, 08:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I bought a wrecker car and the back drivers side wheel was where the damage was. We replaced the half shaft, control arm and sway bar. The car went to a shop before we got it and they popped a whole in the sideskirts next to the jack stand hole. They stuck a metal plate on the backside and pulled it out because it was pushed in from the crash. After replacing all of those parts we realized that the wheel was still turned in. We've come to the conclusion that it's either a tweak in the frame or we need to pull the side skirt out more. My car has adjustable trailing arms but with the trailing arm extended as far is it can be, it still doesn't make the wheel straight. Do you think it's the frame or does the side just need to be pulled out more? Or what else could it be?
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Old 01-16-2004, 08:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is the extra hole they put in. They put a metal plate on the backside and pulled the whole side out.
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Old 01-17-2004, 02:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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geezus man you bought a wrecked car? i hope you payed very little for the car. there is now way to really tell how bad the damage is without a real inspection of the whole entire the frame. if they cant adjust any further than the frame is probably still f@cked.

p.s- your missing a wheel lug.
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Old 01-17-2004, 03:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I payed 8500 for a 98 M3 with 51486 miles. I have everythin on the car paid for except whatever gettin the frame is gonna cost for 10000. The frame guy gave an estimate of 200 at most for somethin as minor as this is. A lil over 10 grand for a 98 M3 with 50000 miles. Not too shabby? It still blue books for 26, and 30 percent gets taken off because it's a wrecker. So I still have it put together for ALOT less than it books for. And I get the new bumper on it, which is a big plus to me. And all the parts i replaced were replaced with better aftermarket ones! You think I got a good deal?
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Right behind where the hole is, this is where the trailing arm mounts, and is where the toe adjustment is.
Are you going by how the wheel looks in comparison to the body, or are you looking at alignment specs? If the body paneling of the car isn't perfect, you can't simply eyeball the rear wheel with any certainty.
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The wheel is very noticably turned in. When we have the back up on a jack and let the wheels spin, it wobbles. The alignment is off for sure, I just don't know whether it's a bent trailing arm or if it's a tweak in the frame.
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Young Beamin'@Jan 18 2004, 02:41 PM
The wheel is very noticably turned in. When we have the back up on a jack and let the wheels spin, it wobbles. The alignment is off for sure, I just don't know whether it's a bent trailing arm or if it's a tweak in the frame.
Bent rim? Bearing shot?
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Old 01-18-2004, 03:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The rim was replaced, so i know that's not bent and the bearings were replaced also.
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If the wheel is wobbling, then you've got something on the same pivotal axis as the axle/wheel. Although there is most certainly still body/subframe damage, the cause of the wheel wobbling has to be with an object that spins with the wheel being improperly installed or bent. I would be willing to bet the hub and wheel bearing weren't installed properly or replaced at all. If not done correctly with the proper tools, it is entirely possible to install the bearing/hub crooked.
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll rip off the wheel and take a look around again and make sure i get the bearings in right. Do you think the trailing arm is bent? Or should i pay to have the frame checked out?
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I think its better for you to consider having a frame guy take a look at it just before you spend anything more. This should at least give you a checkpoint as to where you are and should point you to the things you have to sort out first.
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Old 01-19-2004, 05:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That's what i've decided to do. I think why the wheel i spinnin crooked is because where the trailing arm is mounted is pushed in. This would cause the wheel to be tilted in would it not? I've made an appointment for him to come do some simple measurements and if needed i'll take it over to the frame shop as soon as he has time to work on it.
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It would definately cause the wheel to be cocked one direction but not wobble. Schnitz has a great suggestion. Save yourself the hassle and extra cash by taking it to the frame guy.
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