| Thinking of Parting Out a Red 98 323is
Hi all!
I think my baby is at the end of here useful life as a whole piece. I think parting her out is the best option for me since I don't need $ immediately and would rather the most $ in the long run. There is enough body damage and repair needed that the cost (fender, ball joint, ignition, rear bumper, main wiring harness) would be nearly as much as buying something comparable used w/o such major issues. I think. Before I jump in, looking for advice from someone who has parted before. Cant find any decent advice from an hr of searching.
The wiring gone bad is my main reason to want to part vs restoring or selling as-is used.
For starters, what $ could I expect to sell-off within: 6 months? 12? 24?
What might I expect for this car is sold as-is whole? Any takers ;-)
BB in fair says $2800 private party
What problems would someone of my skill level come across in parting out?
I've got maybe 200 hrs of car work, mostly supervised by someone knowledgable, so learned even more from their tips along the way than fumbling by myself. Have done clutch, front & rear seals, timing belt, & some body work on a 944s. I expect I could learn a lot from dismantling a car, but dread ruining parts & other possible complications like if I send someone something and they say it doesn't work and broke more stuff, etc. I have friends that are mechanics that I can ask for help when I get to hard parts, but wondering how feasible this is for a back yard mechanic like myself. Have rather complete tool set and wouldn't mind adding to it.
What kind of space will be required at minimum? Ideal? What portion for the car itself and work perimeter? Vs parts storage.
Where can I get diagrams and part names/numbers? I'm guessing that if I do this, I'll need shop manuals. Source? Anything electronic or online? Would be nice to access from an ipad while working.
Car Details:
Red 1998 BMW 323is
Black leather interior, sun roof, ac works
@200k miles.
@50k on current clutch, manual
original engine and transmission. No issues w either.
Scranton, PA – 3h N philly, 2.5hr E NYC, 1hr S Binghamton
marquL AhT g m a i l . c o m
570-430-3673 - Louy
Known Issues:
* left rear fender scraped, dented and rusted.
* dent and rust on some metal strip above rear bumper but below trunk opening
* wiring from trunk cd changer to ?cpu or radio? Shorted, smoke came our right side cabin wall
* last problem caused the passenger side parking lights' fuse to blow. Lights lit, but fuse blew in hr first time. Did it maybe 5 times, each time faster, so stopped. Instead cut right bulbs to cpu and wired in parallel to driver side parking lights
* passenger front ball joint shot
* some minor starting cracks in front seats' butt area. No tears yet.
* missing rear bumper
* ignition wont turn. Key goes in, wont turn. Happened suddenly, nothing can be in the key hole, and tried all keys, no damage to any. Think the ignition lock broke.
* stick shift knob leather torn
* tires may be bad. one flat. has sat 6 months since ignition problem occurred
* gets foggy inside back window if rained recently. thinking a leak?
* sun roof sticks if open all the way. ok if even just 99% opened. to fix requires use of manual key to close a bit, then electric closes all the way ok.
History:
* driver door was 'kissed' viciously by another. About a $1000 bmw dealer repair, not replaced. Looks fine to date. Happened 10 years ago. Both doors do now have dings even minor dents.
* front end run in w/ foam off DC beltway. A few k$ repair at a philly dealer, probably overpriced since insurance covered. needed front bumper, radiators, fan,? Dont think belts hurt since it drove 10 miles to exit and station. | 
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