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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 12-20-2004, 11:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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anyone take the intake manifold off of a e35 325> is it pretty hard/easy? what tools are needed? the reason i ask is becuase im going to clean out my IVC or whatever it is, whenever i raise my rpms up in neutral and let them fall back down my rpms hit 500 keep going to almost stall and pop back up to 600ish very annoying hear this gets rid of it... if not time to change the o2 sensor

David
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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easy to do... just start pulling shit off :P lol
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrhaile@Dec 21 2004, 12:54 AM
easy to do... just start pulling shit off :P lol
[snapback]255361[/snapback]
hahaha well that is how i planned to do it, but wanted to see if there was a better way! thanks jr! haha

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Old 12-21-2004, 02:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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mine does the same thing bro. when i also give it a quick rev, like at idle, the rpms drop down to like 500, then shoot up. its not a really big deal, but i'd like to know what the fuck is going on. if you find out whats wrong, please post.
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Old 12-21-2004, 03:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Easy fix. Take out control arms. Install UUC pulley system with full DDe kit. Place V-TEC vinyl on car. Draw lightning bolts. done deal
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Old 12-21-2004, 02:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigred318@Dec 20 2004, 07:52 PM
anyone take the intake manifold off of a e35 325> is it pretty hard/easy? what tools are needed? the reason i ask is becuase im going to clean out my IVC or whatever it is, whenever i raise my rpms up in neutral and let them fall back down my rpms hit 500 keep going to almost stall and pop back up to 600ish very annoying hear this gets rid of it... if not time to change the o2 sensor

David
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this is an obd-ii to obd-i manifold conversion, but the basic procedure is the same:
http://www.midnightautowerks.com/Installs/...ke/install.html
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Old 12-21-2004, 02:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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the reason why our rpms are dipping down is either becuase our ICV is dirty and needs cleaning or our o2 sensor is going... our IVC is located under the intake manifold so away that goes! ill post some pics as i do it, hopefully by this weekend

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Old 12-21-2004, 03:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ive heard a lot of bmw owners say cleaning the idle control valve takes care of the problem. But before buying a new o2 sensor it couldn't hurt to check the ignition system. If a plug wire is arc-ing somewhere or a plug is corroded it may not be firing correctly in 1 or more cylinders. This could cause irregular idle, and it would be a cheaper fix. just a thought...
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Old 12-21-2004, 03:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by TopZecret@Dec 21 2004, 03:32 PM
ive heard a lot of bmw owners say cleaning the idle control valve takes care of the problem. But before buying a new o2 sensor it couldn't hurt to check the ignition system. If a plug wire is arc-ing somewhere or a plug is corroded it may not be firing correctly in 1 or more cylinders. This could cause irregular idle, and it would be a cheaper fix. just a thought...
[snapback]255752[/snapback]
yeah if cleaning the ICV doesnt work im going to look into it more before getting my new 02 sensor... how much does a o2 usually run? and wheres a good place to get one?

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Old 01-18-2005, 05:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigred318+Dec 21 2004, 04:35 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bigred318 @ Dec 21 2004, 04:35 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-TopZecret@Dec 21 2004, 03:32 PM
ive heard a lot of bmw owners say cleaning the idle control valve takes care of the problem.* But before buying a new o2 sensor it couldn't hurt to check the ignition system.* If a plug wire is arc-ing somewhere or a plug is corroded it may not be firing correctly in 1 or more cylinders. This could cause irregular idle, and it would be a cheaper fix.* just a thought...
[snapback]255752[/snapback]
yeah if cleaning the ICV doesnt work im going to look into it more before getting my new 02 sensor... how much does a o2 usually run? and wheres a good place to get one?

David
[snapback]255754[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]
to take the manifol out is a simple procedure not bad at all, but i do recommend since you are goin in there, buy a brand new set of gasket for all the parts on the manifold, this will ensure you dont have leaks and stuff, also when having it out i do recommend spraying trottle cleaner, or something, to get all the oil deposits out, also, it is possible to take the idle control valve out without removing the manifold, youll have to be good on feeling things with your finger. look for the procedure online, or ask for it if needed..

Also if even after cleaning the idle valve you still have issues, then look your spark plugs, if you have a leaky valve cover gastket, il leaks into the spark plug, fills with oil and no spark action..
check that to ensure smooth operation since you're at it.


of course there is an esay way of doing this.
the idle valve gets it air from the rubber boot, right on the turn of it. take air filter box out the air mass sensor and boot, then look for the hoses, there are2 just follow then and look for the one that goes to the idle valve,. after finding it, old the hose on the upright positon, and pour a solvent into the pipe, a not so strong solve that is suitable to brake loose deposits. what youre tryin to do here is to put solvent on the pipe and by holding the pipe on the upright position you will be flooding the valve with it. let it sit, so the solving process take place and then twist the pipe donw so the liquid can drain.. This is easier than taking the manifold out, and than trying to unclip the pipe that goes from the valve to the manifold, since it has a hard and easy to brake clip that holds the rubber pipe there, may not saound the best solution, but if done correctly, it will save you agravation.
also i worked on mechanical shop, believe me, they would not spend their time trying to unclip somethign they could not see and having the risk of breaking it and having to wait days for a clip..
just an idea..
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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thanks so much for the help dude, i will make sure to ask you anymore questions if they come up! im going to save all this and hoepfully i will get around to doing the cleaning soon!

David
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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OH YEAH WELCOME TO THE FORUMS

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Old 01-18-2005, 07:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here in Canada I've found O2 sensors are cheapest at the dealer. They run about $150 CAD (about $110 US).
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally posted by mech9T8@Jan 18 2005, 08:26 PM
Here in Canada I've found O2 sensors are cheapest at the dealer. They run about $150 CAD (about $110 US).
[snapback]274378[/snapback]

for the yankees i recommend looking on the net. such as www.thepartsbin.com and other,, go google and type bmw parts.. many sources of possible choice.
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Old 01-18-2005, 08:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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o yeah i forgot to say,,

if your car reached 100k miles i do recomend pulling the manifold out for several reasons.

most importanly it is way easier to clean the idle control valve,.
But the main thing here is to pull it out to replace all gaskets, there are many in there and they fail..
broken/ crack hoses that you cannot easily see from the top with the manifold installed, and the reason i say that is because there a litle hose that goes from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, this hose is a vacuum hose used to make the regulator work, the regulator works on vacuum to regulate the fuel rate. this little hose cracks and does brake eventually, my car had 116k when i got it, i pulled the manifold out and there several hoses that where cracked and some sensors that go bad easily. such as intake manifold temperature sensor and the 2 knock sensors that are on the side wall of the bock under the manifold.
I've spent some 200 on all the gaskest that go on the manifold, plus the sensors.

Since is such a PITA to get in there, replacing this sensors will save you agravation on the future.
Dont forget, sensors tell the computer what is going on, if they fail, or if they ar enot accurate the computer will not be avble to calculate exactly and so the engine will be shitty or poor in poerformance, gas mileage etc..

Just to let you knwo hhow this is greatly effective. On my 93 m50 engine with 122k im getting 24 MPG, im not making this numbers this is what the cumputer is showing, and its my daily commuter.

So think wise about saving 200 now and then burn this money on gas and agravation when some sensor fails in there..

any questions on this let me know.

have fun out there, couse the weather is chill and so im chilling on my 325.
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