3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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Hello everyone and thank you in advance for your help,
I own a 1992 325i, and here is my problem. 3 weeks ago the heating on my car would only work as long as I was driving it, however, once i stopped at a red light it would not blow any heat, until i would start moving again. I had the thermostat and water pump replaced yesterday and the problem now its that it overheats. Prior to that the car was not overheating. Please i could use some insight with this problem...I had the radiator flushed as well and nothing.
did you install the thermostat the right way, if you installed it backwards no coolant will flow through your engine, it will just keep circulating through the radiator, in turn causing the car to overheat.
A little hint.....usually you get this condition with a defective clutch fan.....engine overheats when the car is not moving.......because the clutch is not engaging the fan, thus no forced air.....when driving the engine is cooled through the movement of forced air. Also another way to check the clutch fan is to have someone start the car while you watch & listen to the fan......initially the fan will turn slower than the engine, then the clutch will engage and turn at the same speed as the engine, there also will be a change in sound.....
Also Shahab is right....thermostat has to be installed with arrow or dot facing up.......
another tip......for checking if the coolant system is bled properly......you will have good heat..... http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...ing-61251.html
A little hint.....usually you get this condition with a defective clutch fan.....engine overheats when the car is not moving.......because the clutch is not engaging the fan, thus no forced air.....when driving the engine is cooled through the movement of forced air. Also another way to check the clutch fan is to have someone start the car while you watch & listen to the fan......initially the fan will turn slower than the engine, then the clutch will engage and turn at the same speed as the engine, there also will be a change in sound.....
Also Shahab is right....thermostat has to be installed with arrow or dot facing up.......
another tip......for checking if the coolant system is bled properly......you will have good heat..... http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...ing-61251.html
The engine driven fan not working isn't going to cause overheating, there's still the aux fan in front of the radiator that will push air through the radiator when the car is stopped.
The engine driven fan not working isn't going to cause overheating, there's still the aux fan in front of the radiator that will push air through the radiator when the car is stopped.
An auxiliary fan is exactly what it is, an auxiliary & it runs off a high temp. temperature fan switch.....& will come on to aid the main engine driven fan during hotter conditions, such as when the a/c is on causing higher temps or when idling & there is no forced air other than the engine driven fan.
Case in point when doing the fan mod. it is recommended to install a low temp. temperature fan switch, so that the fan comes on more frequently. It is also recommended that you install a second electric fan to prevent overheating in hotter climates.....
this is why frontwheel drive transverse engines have 2 electric fans
ya the auxiliary fan was not made to do the entire motor cooling just to aid. i had the same problem on my 1993 325is. and yes the thermostat put in wrong could be a problem and an easy one to do, along with that on the water pump the fins have to be spinning the right way so if it was put in wrong then it would just be pulling the water/antifreeze back outa the motor. also is the radiator leaking? like your check coolant lite coming on? i would check all temp sensors and level sensors also. check your fan clutch, open your hood and spin your fan clutch just by hand it should spin freely but with some restraint like it should have pressure on it when you try to spin it you shouldnt be able to just spin it and will spin five to ten times with no friction
An auxiliary fan is exactly what it is, an auxiliary & it runs off a high temp. temperature fan switch.....& will come on to aid the main engine driven fan during hotter conditions, such as when the a/c is on causing higher temps or when idling & there is no forced air other than the engine driven fan.
Case in point when doing the fan mod. it is recommended to install a low temp. temperature fan switch, so that the fan comes on more frequently. It is also recommended that you install a second electric fan to prevent overheating in hotter climates.....
this is why frontwheel drive transverse engines have 2 electric fans
People have removed the engine driven fan and had no problems. As in not installed a lower temp fan switch or water wetter. I'm saying that just a bad engine driven fan will not cause a car to overheat. Especially when it's december, lets think about the problem at hand and not the fan delete mod. Which btw seemed like a waste to me (no improvement in butt dyno) lol, but that's a different story.
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STILL OVERHEATING - Please Help 
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UNITED WE STAND DIVIDED WE FALL 
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