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i was getting error message "brake light failure" and drivers side brake light was not working. i checked bulbs and bulb contacts which looks good, also checked wiring through trunk hood also looked OK. so i purchased brake light switch from pelican parts and replaced today which went smoothly, but still getting error message and now neither side brake lights working.
i was getting error message "brake light failure" and drivers side brake light was not working. i checked bulbs and bulb contacts which looks good, also checked wiring through trunk hood also looked OK. so i purchased brake light switch from pelican parts and replaced today which went smoothly, but still getting error message and now neither side brake lights working.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Kevin
At this point, I would check all my fuses......it is possible it may have blown when installing the brake switch? also check for a loose ground wire in the trunk........
i looked at the wire bundles in the trunk hood and they all looked OK
anything else?
With a 12 volt test light, check for power at the back of the brake light, remove the bulb socket for the brake light, have somebody apply the brake & check for power at the bulb socket contact point on the light assembly......if there is no power, then check the wires behind the brake switch, check each one while pressing the brake pedal down & letting it up......you should have power at one wire constant, & power also only when applying the brakes.....on another wire.
"you should have power at one wire constant, & power also only when applying the brakes.....on another wire." i have 4 wires behind the switch - what will the other 2 be doing?
also i dont have a test bulb handy, can use a voltmeter with 9 V setting (battery tester)? it also has AC and DC settings and mAmps...
"you should have power at one wire constant, & power also only when applying the brakes.....on another wire." i have 4 wires behind the switch - what will the other 2 be doing?
also i dont have a test bulb handy, can use a voltmeter with 9 V setting (battery tester)? it also has AC and DC settings and mAmps...
hope youre enjoying your sunday
You are welcome, 3rd & fourth wires, one should be a ground.....the other not sure.......it might be an option for auto trans gear selector, for when moving from park to drive, brake pedal must be depressed.....& yes you can use a volt meter set on DC settings in the 12 volt range.....
HOLY CRAP now the auto transmission will not move out of PARK - i think i actually saw a post when i was researching this that said something about the solenoid for the tranny connected to the brake switch ... do you know what happened?
HOLY CRAP now the auto transmission will not move out of PARK - i think i actually saw a post when i was researching this that said something about the solenoid for the tranny connected to the brake switch ... do you know what happened?
Dude.......are sure there are no blown fuses & the switch is installed correctly?
just to be sure, check all the fuses with your volt meter & I would recheck the brake switch......& make sure it properly set & make sure the wiring connector is secure......
It would make sense that this issue started after you installed the switch, because you did not have this problem prior.
the switch instillation is fairly simple, the connector has only 1 way to snap together
maybe the new switch is bad (or wrong)
but what is with the tranny?
If the switch is faulty that would cause the trans issue, also be sure that the switch is positioned correctly.......so that button on the switch makes contact with the stop when the pedal is depressed....
"PS The reason I had to replace my brake light switch was because my car was stuck in PARK. The selector was frozen in PARK because on the four pronged switch two prongs go to the transmission module. If that side of the switch fails the solenoid that blocks the shift linkage wont retract so you are stuck until you fix the brake light switch. FYI failure on the transmission side of the brake light switch does not give a message on the computer.
You can do a temporary fix to get the car home by pulling the gear shift lever off straight up and hard then pry up the trim plate to get at the ATM linkage. Turn on the ignition to activate the solenoid, move the selector then use a very thin piece of metal razor blade to keep the plunger in so you can get it past the Neutral indent. Just keep it in drive until you get it in your driveway."
"PS The reason I had to replace my brake light switch was because my car was stuck in PARK. The selector was frozen in PARK because on the four pronged switch two prongs go to the transmission module. If that side of the switch fails the solenoid that blocks the shift linkage wont retract so you are stuck until you fix the brake light switch. FYI failure on the transmission side of the brake light switch does not give a message on the computer.
You can do a temporary fix to get the car home by pulling the gear shift lever off straight up and hard then pry up the trim plate to get at the ATM linkage. Turn on the ignition to activate the solenoid, move the selector then use a very thin piece of metal razor blade to keep the plunger in so you can get it past the Neutral indent. Just keep it in drive until you get it in your driveway."
i think the new switch may be bad...
Ok..........then I would try replacing it.........sucks when you get new parts that are defective........
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replaced brake light switch, still not working 
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