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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 12-30-2004, 03:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Anybody have any time and want to make some money? I need the rear wheel bearings on my 93' BMW 325is replaced. I will provide the following:
a. New bearings
b. Garage
c. Air compressor/gun/sockets and common tools.
d. Food and beer or any sustenance request you may have.
e. Cash

If anybody has any experience with this work and has the time to make some extra money, please let me know. Email me at Fliplegend@gmail.com or call my cell @ (703)981-5241. For those with Nextels, PM me and I will give you my direct connect number.

I am located in Fairfax off Rt.50, across the highway from Fair Oaks Mall. Thanks!
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Found this, maybe it will help you:

Changed Rear Bearings in 1 hr without BMW tool !! Write up!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay guys, I just bought this 92 318 with 100k on it for only $2900.00. It had bad bearings and a leaky a/c. I fixed the a/c leak for $100 and the bearings for $65.00 a side. FAG Bearing from O'reilly's. Now the things you will need to get this job done fast and right!! Descrition for now, pics later. THIS IS ONLY WHAT I DID AND IT WORKED FOR ME. TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

Tools:

Loaned from AutoZone: Heavy Duty Slide hammer
Slide hammer flange
Bearing Puller (explain later)

Things every home mechanic should have:

Dremel with 2 cutoff blades
3-inch washer
Your normal manly tools either air
or manual
2 jacks, jack stands
( always helps )

Procedure:

To start I used all air tools but hand tools will work, just a bear!

Raise car and support VERY IMPORTANT!!!

Pull off wheel

Remove hex nut holding rotor

Remove Caliber (tie it up to something)

Remove Axle Nut 30mm if memory serves

Air Tools if you have(hand tools if you don't)

Remove your sway bar bolts (13mm)
DO NOT REMOVE THE WHOLE THING!!!!
Support the trailing arm with 2nd jack
Use 18mm wrench/socket remove shock lower bolt
Using long extension and I forgot what size socket,
Remove bolts holding in axle to diff.
Raise 2nd jack up all the way (compressing spring ) and
remove axle, it will slide down towards right, this is the
reason from loosening the sway bar. lower the trailing
arm to about 13" off ground.


Attach Slide Hammer flange securely to HUB with lugs

Attach Slide Hammer to Flange

Slide the @&#&@ out of the hammer being careful not
to hit the NADS!!
When the flange comes off, you'll be like oh sh$t
but thats ok, use what ever tools u have (i used flat
head screw driver) to pull the inner
and outer rings ( with bearings ) out.
Now you will have what believe is called a "racer" ring still
inside the hub. Also remove the "C" Clamp/Ring Whatever

Bust out the BMW special tool.

I bought mines at Lowes. I am sure Home Depot has
them too. Be careful, BMW is very smart and renamed
tool and called it a DREMEL and priced it for
$39.95. Now, using the dremel and a cutting blade,
****CAREFULLY**** cut the ring in half. careful not to
cut into the hub!!! The ring then just pops out because
the pressure on the hub is released.

Now Take a break! you are half way there.

Slide the new bearing into the hub. Using the bearing
puller. Attach it backwards; we are not using it to
pull the bearing out but rather pushing it in. Add the
biggo washer to the inside of the hub and using ur
wrench and thighten the puller, this will slide(press) the
bearing in. Or you can whack the bearing into the hub.
BE CAREFUL not to hit the rings or the bearings! I
would suggest a block of wood or something.

Check you work!!!

Make sure the bearings still rolls freely, Make sure you
DIDN't break anything else in the process.

Attach " C " ring /clamp thingy

Now cut the bearing ring that is stuck to your hub in the same manner as before. be careful not to cut into the hub itself.

Reattach hub to arm.

Align hub into bearing and tap it in slowly. Make sure it
is not cocked! Attach slide hammer on flange and
slide sway, once again, watch out for the NADS. Once
is on part ways. reattach your drive axle nuts and all.
You maybe wondering why I didn't hammer the hub all
the way in? Simple you don't want to damage the
bearings, so less force is better. We will use the nut
from the axle to "pull" the hub in the rest of the way.
Impact wrench would be great here, otherwise, bring
out the breaker bar. Once you start tightening the axle
nut you will notice the hub sliding back into place.

Inspect you brakes:

Right now would be the perfect time to do your brakes
if need be.

Reinstall everything:

Put that shock bolt back on, reattached sway bar bolts.
Put that brake disk thingy back on the caliber. Don't
forget that hex bolt. But if you lost it, like I did, i didn't
sweat it. Its mainly to align the wholes to the lugs. Put
the wheels on.

Eyeball everything:

Give everything a once over!!!!

Extra Parts:

Other that Bearing parts you trashed! Better not be
any, especially big bolts!!


: : YOU'RE DONE!!! Put up your tools, clean your
workplace. return autozone tools to get your $$$
back.


will think you are the man, you just saved $500 bucks!!!


***NOW I WROTE THIS WHILE I WAS BORED AS HECK AT WORK. IF I LEFT SOMETHING OUT I WILL UPDATE. IF I CALLED SOMETHING ITS NOT, PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I AM NOT HERE TO SHOWOFF OR PROVE ANYONE WRONG, I DID A LOT OF READING ON THE BOARD BEFORE I DID MY WORK, AND DIDN'T FIND MUCH WRITE UP. HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS. ***
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