3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.
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is it even possible to peel out with a 318i with spare, and with box/amp/sub all weighing at least 50lbs in trunk in dry conditions going in a straight line?
Do it like this lightly let the clutch engauge, can the gas and slip the clutch out. Dumping the clutch is how transmissions explode and driveshafts snap (granted you'd need a little more power than what you've got)
Atleast slipping the clutch the clutch takes the abuse and not every single component on your drivetrain.
__________________ Kevin (President TBEA)
"WAAAAAAARRRRRIORS, come out to plaaaaay."
thanks guys, and i would never think of peeling out a auto lmao, but yea, thats y i wanted to make sure, my dumb friends know jack shit about bmw's. they are like, yea, jus press the brake and accelr8r at the same time...im like..no thanks. ill ask pros...
so leme get this str8, rev the engine let the clutch engage..then let the cluth go while flooring it? doesnt make sense, my clutch doesnt engage until i almost completely let go...any advice?
i think what he is saying is, rev the engine, let the clutch engauge just a little bit, then drop the clutch.. or release it quickly, just make sure the car moves just a little bit
It's not that bad for the tires. As Kevin mentioned it's bad for the tranny, but most of all for the rear sub-frame! It's putting a lot of stress on your differential and the rear mounting points. I advise since you have a '92 model (no reinforcements) that you avoid doing anything like this. In my opinion, looks stupid and costs you money, why bother?
However, if you really must do this revving up then dumping the clutch is the best way to blow your car straight to hell. The proper way to do it is as follows...
1. rev up the motor to about 3000RPM's with the clutch depressed and hold the revs
2. slowly release the clutch pedal, when you start to feel the cluch contact and want to grip, give it a little more gas and release the clutch even more (just slightly more), once you feel it bite, floor it while releasing the clutch pedal completely at the same time. People think oh gee, peeling out is easy. I'll just rev to 6000RPM and dump the clutch (WTF), feel sorry for those cars. It takes a long time to get use to it. And if you don't slip the clutch properly, #1 you'll end up not giving enough gas, car will bog and you'll look like a moron. #2 clutch will overheat and you'll have a cooked clutch, your revvs will be bouncing off the rev limiter, but you won't go anywhere.
It's not even worth it in my opinion. Just take care of your car and it'll take care of you. There are far too many things to go wrong on a BMW to do stupid things like this. Honda is a good lightweight car to do peelouts in.
There is no real "safe" way to do peel outs without negative effects. I don't really see the positive effects.
Bry
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Go ahead and do it. What do you think the magazine editors do before they take a run down the track?
Your car can handle it. In fact, if you get it right, the spinning tires can actually be quite smooth. The thing that everyone is forgetting here is that the stress is very brief. It happens for a split second and then the tires are spinning (much less load). This effect is even less noticeable if you have crappy tires. I would *not* suggest attempting burnouts with a set of Hoosier slicks. Not advisable.
Anyway, just go for it. You only live once. If your subframe or diff takes a crap, so be it. You gotta pay to play.
Originally posted by uiuc240@Oct 8 2004, 07:35 AM ??? WTF ???
Go ahead and do it. What do you think the magazine editors do before they take a run down the track?
Your car can handle it. In fact, if you get it right, the spinning tires can actually be quite smooth. The thing that everyone is forgetting here is that the stress is very brief. It happens for a split second and then the tires are spinning (much less load). This effect is even less noticeable if you have crappy tires. I would *not* suggest attempting burnouts with a set of Hoosier slicks. Not advisable.
Anyway, just go for it. You only live once. If your subframe or diff takes a crap, so be it. You gotta pay to play.
Eric
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His car is a '92. The point I was trying to make was that the '92 models had really weak sub-frames and were prone to failure. Telling him to go ahead and do peelouts isn't the best advice. And no, it can't take it. I've owned a '92 318 which wasn't that great on power, the rear sub-frame still cracked. It was a design flaw. My point was that if he does it incorrectly, it will seriously damage his car in the long run. Magazine editors don't drive 12 year old used cars down the race track and abuse them. Ever watch Top Gear? You think those cars don't need repairs after they rape the shit out of them? Think again, often shocks, balljoints and rubber bushings all need replacing. If you've got a fat wallet and lots of time to spend at a repair shop, do peels out at every light, who cares?
Bry
__________________ <u>1994 M-Technic M42 Saloon - Trillium Chapter - 5130</u> Stock - 2866lbs Current - 2670lbs
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guess you're talking burnouts / doughnuts and the like here, would love too ;
1) New tyres that have loads of tread 1/2" / 2cm - grip like crazy, few spins
2) Wouldn't want to put that load on my car ; few of my mates have real lightweight real wheel drive ; Caterham, Westfield, Lotus Exige and a Nobel, and they can kick ass burnout, massively different cars to a bimmer tho.
if you're gonna burn, best when low on tread I saw a guy I work with , heavily tuned Toyota MR2 do 2 wicked near perfect circles, smoke, turbo's popping - um how do you do this peel thing again kiddin...
Originally posted by Autotechnica@Oct 8 2004, 08:21 AM
His car is a '92. The point I was trying to make was that the '92 models had really weak sub-frames and were prone to failure. Telling him to go ahead and do peelouts isn't the best advice. And no, it can't take it. I've owned a '92 318 which wasn't that great on power, the rear sub-frame still cracked. It was a design flaw. My point was that if he does it incorrectly, it will seriously damage his car in the long run. Magazine editors don't drive 12 year old used cars down the race track and abuse them. Ever watch Top Gear? You think those cars don't need repairs after they rape the shit out of them? Think again, often shocks, balljoints and rubber bushings all need replacing. If you've got a fat wallet and lots of time to spend at a repair shop, do peels out at every light, who cares?
Bry
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Good points, all. And I'm aware of the subframe issues. I guess I was just saying that, Hey, if you want to do it, just go ahead and do it. Rev the engine, dump the clutch, and see what happens.
Personally, I think this kind of behavior is totally useless. It's precisely the reason I sold my 240sx and bought the 325is. I let some kid have fun with my tuned turbo monster...he'll probably drift it into a curb or something. Oh well.
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