Overheating Problems - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 03:39 PM
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On my 1995 325i I have over heating problem. When car is parked but motor is running the temp goes high hot all the way to the top. But when i start driving it dropes to normal. I brought the therostat already and I'm thinking to change it, but i'm not sure if thats the problem. Also i noticed when car is running and the level is high hot the pipe that goes from radiator to thermostat is hot and puffed up when i tryed to squeeze. Anyone knows if thermostat might be the problem?
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#2 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 03:45 PM
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You have described symptoms of a bad fan clutch..

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#3 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 03:49 PM
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like what 93 325i said, check your fan(s)

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#4 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 04:16 PM
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I heard the the easiest way to check the fan clutch is to run the engine until the gauge reads normal or just a hair above it then open the hood and watch the fan as you (or a helper) switch the engine off. If the fan goes around more than about 3/4 turn after the engine stops, you have a bad clutch. Any suggestions?
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#5 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 11:06 PM
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What you've described as puffed-up hoses is a tremendous pressure build up due to overheated engine….something not to toy with....so please be careful with it could be dangerous.

Note: replace the t-stat with the new one you've just bought; after replacing the t-stat make sure to bleed the system to get the air bubbles out (bleeding plastic screw) if this does not solve the problem next take a look at your water pump then the fan clutch. Hoping the problem stops right here.....Good luck
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#6 (permalink) Old 03-30-2005, 11:11 PM
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On an E36 after you have made sure there is no air trapped in the system suck some coolant out of the top of the fill hole and start the car...you will need to rev the engine (from outside the car so you can watch the open filler) and watch for coolant to "pee" out of a hole into the over flow tank from the right side (as you are looking down the filler) this in one way to ensure flow.

Also (with closed cap) sit in the car and turn on your heater...if heat comes out of the ducts go after fan clutch...if there is no heat...there is no flow and replace the water pump (since you'be already replaced the t-stat)

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#7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2005, 02:24 PM
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I relaced thermostat and overheating problems stoped , but i still have problem with heater. Sometimes it work most of the time dont. Should I change my water pump? Any suggestions?

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#8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2005, 05:22 PM
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You should consider a fan delete. Since you are there, get rid of the clutch and belt driven fan. Just get the kit from Understeer together with a new water pump. You will be safe for 100k more miles.
I am doing this now because my radiator started leaking. I am upgrading the whole cooling system (rad, cap, bleed screw, thermostat, water pump, fan switch, hoses, etc) because I don't want to have problems later on. If you're gonna do it, do it right. If you want to be on the safe side, you can add an electric puller fan to ensure max cooling during the summer.
My 2 cents.
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