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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 01-21-2006, 11:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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okay nothing new,but someone please help.

heres the deal,I bought my self a new car two weeks later it starts over heating,what the deal

its a 95 BMW 325IS M50 engine,I installed a new BMW waterpump[metal fins] and new not BMW [advance brand] 176'thermostat got rid of the mech fan and installed a electric fan that puts in 800 more cfm's didnt put bmw antifreeze but bleed the system for three days off and on.and you wouldnt believe it still over heating and at idel the car blows out no heat the I drive I have heat anybody have any sugestions because I want to keep the car just want to drive it so it doesnt just look good at one place,my drive way.

thanks anybody, Isaac
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cloged radiator, or bad headgasket come to mind.
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks man also if it had a blown headgaket wouldnt I have a milk shake in my resovor just wondering.also If I had my coolant system flushed would that help.
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Was it overheating before and that's why you put in the new waterpump, thermostat, and fan, or is it running hot on you after you put in all that stuff?

If it's been running hot before all the new stuff then clogged radiator would definitely be just about the only one i can think of right now.

If it's running hot after you replaced all that, then thermostat could be defective (not opening or not opening at the right time), kind of dumb for anyone to do and no offense if this is what you did but did you put all water or too much water in the mixture?

Also after the cars been warmed up, does it run hot at a dead stop, while you're moving or both? If it's at a dead stop maybe fans not coming on, if it's while you're moving then once again back to the radiator.

And as for the head gasket, yes if it's blown you might get a "milky" solution when the water and oil mix, but sometimes it blows in a way that the water passages and the oil passages don't come together, and also you'll have very bad performance if your head gasket is gone. If it isn't out don't run it hot or else you'll burn it out.
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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well thats why I replaced the stuff because it started over heating,and I saw thats what everybody on here does replace it all,I didnt flush the system but I did pour in a buck a mix of 50/50 green antifreez and distiled water

it mostly over heats while im setting,well I thought I could fix the problem by turning the fan on all the time still doing it

could the temp sensor be bad and just fliping out on me?

and the radiator hose on the intake side get scolding hot and the other hose will be kinda hot.

if I flush it I plan on swithing out the coolant to bimmer coolant.

does any of this help.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Temperature sending unit could also be another possibility.

The upper radiator hose will always be hotter than the lower. However if the cooling effeciency of the radiator has gone bad (which could mean it's clogged or some of the veins have gone bad, happens when it's banged up or something close to it) then both hoses will almost be at the same temperature.

At this point instead of spending money on replacing more random things, it'd be best to get it checked out by someone who is experienced then from their diagnosis you know for certain what you have do have to replace. Don't gamble with your money especially when there are so many components that can cause an overheating or what you perceive to be an overheating situation, better to know for certain what does and doesn't have to be replaced.
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Old 02-27-2006, 03:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had the same problem, turned out the radiator fan was not kicking on. Replaced the temp sensor, still there was a problem. Turned out to be a spliced cable going from the fan to the temp sensor.
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