Ok a few things here need a lil assistance with - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 07:13 AM
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Ok a few things here need a lil assistance with

Ok...
My air con doesnt work... Only blows out hot air...
I was wondering maybe its the AC Pump
i know these are expensive but there is on in AUS for sale on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Thinking of just buying it incase for the price its reasonable.


Secondly...

My dif is a 4.1 "yes very high for a 318i but was for that lil extra power"

The guy on ebay is also selling a 318i dif
BMW E36 318i MANUAL DIFF IN VERY GOOD CONDITION. NOT LSD.FROM 1997 CAR. TAG SAYS 338V479 SO I PRESUME IT'S 3.38 RATIO.

First question is really
he has a 1997 318i m43 "engine"
I have a 1994 318i m43 "engine"

Will both these parts interchange easily into my car.

Secondly How big of a job is a dif change, i wont be doing it myself, a rough estimate for labour.

Next question is a little more complicated.
Its electrical..

Symptoms
1) Car Sometime fails to starts, kills all electrical "No signs of any power in the car when i attempt to start again, all lights are gone"

When i move the negative cable on the battery the lights come back on and i can try again..

Is it likely to be the problem? The netagtive cable comming off my battery??

Next problem is i believe related.

When i am driving along, occassionally if i turn on high beams, it reset my CD Player, but also for a quick second takes power from the car "1/2 sec"

Anyway all assistance will greatly be appreciated
Regards Michael
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 09:34 AM
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Diff change could be around 2 hours, mine took almost 3 because some bolts were really stuck.

On the other hand I would say it would fit, because it's not the gear ratio that counts that much, but more the housing size. It's the same for all E36's

Then again, I would never buy a diff from just someone, without warranty, unless your technical and have the ability for changing parts.

Like me, I've bought a LSD and completely revised it myself, where nescesarry.
Also I've cleaned it completely.

What if you buy one and there is something broke, what then?
Also he presumes that it's a 3.38, what I can believe, but what would the 479 mean? There is always a tag near the plug from the tempreader where the ratio is stamped into.
But why change it, I think a short diff on a 318i is a nice way to make people surprised at the traffic lights..

Considering your electrical problem, I think you have a small ground issue. Try cleaning the connector and the bolt on your battery.

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#3 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 03:14 PM
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A/C issue- maybe your out of freeon or whatever your system is currently running on.

Diff issue- 4.10 is a very good diff for your car, i would only go to the 3.91 at the most... unless you have done enough in terms of performance, its really gonna affect your performance (badly) your gonna notice a very slow pickup with a 3.38.. which brings me to the second part of this, the manual 318's had a 3.91, not a 3.38, the 3.38 was in the automatic m3 and they were all LSD. last part of this is all diffs in the e36 were interchangeable... in the end keep your 4.1 your not gonna be happy with going to a longer gear. you can go faster on the highway but your 0-60 time will be much worse off (best way i can put it)

electrical issue- cant help you here, electrical issues are so hard to diagnose over the net. i would get that looked at professionally

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#4 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 03:16 PM
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as for the ac, did it just decided to stop working one day or had it been sitting for a while? it might need a recharge...i wouldnt buy anything yet unless you get a mechanic to tell you whats wrong...


with the diff, it will fit, but why would u want to change from a 4.1? 318 is economical enough that you dont need to worry about fuel economy too much anyways... but yeah i would be cautious about buying from that guy... if he doesnt know what kind of diff it is then he probibly doesnt know cars too well and he could be selling a broken one thinking that everything is alright with it... labor for that is a couple of hours.. but if you have any mechanical touch then i would grab a friend and a case of beer and go at it yourself.... there are tutorials all over the web on how to switch it out...

first thing i would do is check and see if your terminal on your battery is corroded... if so clean that off real good and then see if your still having a problem, if thats not the problem then make sure the connector on the end of the wire is tight to the wire, if it is and there are still problems you might havt to replace the wires there... just make sure they are tightened down tight or else that could also be a reason its acting up...
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#5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 06:13 PM
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Try recharging your AC first before taking it to the shop. Worst case you'll spend $35 to find out you need a new compressor, which is cheaper than taking it to a shop. Use the DIY below. Note regarding the DIY: If your system is low on coolant, the compressor will not come on until there is at least a few oz of coolant in the system. The target end-pressure you're looking for is when the compressor is running. When the compressor is not running, the pressure will be higher.

http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/mai...harge-665.html

If jiggling the negative lead on your battery seems to take care of the problem temporarily it sounds like you simply have corroded terminals. Get yourself a battery terminal brush and some electrical grease from Autozone, then clean and grease both the positive and negative posts & terminals.

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#6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2006, 12:59 AM
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Have a check of the AC relay. Made the mistake of taking the ours to the stealer after the AC didn't work. $300 for a half pound of freon and a $18 relay.
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