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#1 (permalink) Old 03-26-2009, 11:05 PM
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Oil Pressure And Oil Temp Guage Opinion

I've been pondering this source for oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. Using the Vanos oil line with 2 tees spliced in for the sending units for electric or mechanical gauges. If I use elec. guages I'd have to attach a ground for the senders. Mechanical are more positive and probably cheaper. The question is, does anyone know the inside diameter of that oil line and opinions on whether worm gear clamps will hold the oil pressure. This is the hose, I just don't trust idiot lights.


Cosmos schwartz metalic Sparco strut brace factory X-brace 55w 6000k HID w/LED angel eyes smoked Lamin-X blacked out sidemarkers,tails and brakelights. DDM smoked corners and pedals. 35% tint all around, Prosport water temp and oil pressure gauges, Home Depot lip, M3 rear diffuser ASC-T delete.
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 11:24 PM
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Little update on my thread Oil Pressure And Oil Temp Guage Opinion - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum, I decided not to cut the vanos line and use an idea from Audi. I bought an extra Banjo bolt, drilled and tapped that to 1/8-27 NPT and will use that as a source for oil flow for temp and pressure. Now I have to save up for the gauges and senders. I had a slight problem with the threading process, it got a little crooked but the elbow still went in. I just hope it's indexed right when I install it IDK if I'll be able to get much more of a turn on it. With the elbow and a tee I should be able to get both senders in. But now that I think about it maybe I should put it at the other end of the line so the fittings get the flow before the oil changes direction. I don't want my senders in an air pocket. Could be a PITA to put them at the other end, but might be better overall. Any opinions?



I installed the adapters for my sending units tonight, now I can order my gauges, I'm going for Prosport 52mm amber/white. I put an old mechanical oil pressure gauge in to test, but I don't think it's accurate at 100psi and 50 after I shut the engine off. As you can see I adapted a $7 brass insert coupling for the temp sender, 1 1/8-27 NPT hole for the sender and a 10/32 machine screw hole for a ground stud. I also soldered the stud in to assure no leaks. I only cut about a 1/2" wide band out of the upper hose, enough for the fittings, the coupler was a perfect fit inside the hose. I grounded the coupler to the oil filter housing, either threaded hole will suffice. The clamps made for less mess and less bleeding. With the thermostat closed I lost very little coolant.


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I checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and had 65psi at cold start up, 40 deg. F, and 50+ after the idle dropped. BTW I run 10w-40 Castrol Syntec.


Cosmos schwartz metalic Sparco strut brace factory X-brace 55w 6000k HID w/LED angel eyes smoked Lamin-X blacked out sidemarkers,tails and brakelights. DDM smoked corners and pedals. 35% tint all around, Prosport water temp and oil pressure gauges, Home Depot lip, M3 rear diffuser ASC-T delete.
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#3 (permalink) Old 01-10-2010, 11:54 PM
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I know this is an old thread and the pics don't show anymore so I thought I'd up date. With my new 88* t-stat and no fan for the time being, at <20*F temps The factory gauge is right in the middle and my Prosport gets to 175* after a lomg ride. Plenty of heat BTW. Oil pressure is 60psi at startup 30 at warm idle and 50 while driving. 10w-40 Syntec.
[IMG][/IMG]





Cosmos schwartz metalic Sparco strut brace factory X-brace 55w 6000k HID w/LED angel eyes smoked Lamin-X blacked out sidemarkers,tails and brakelights. DDM smoked corners and pedals. 35% tint all around, Prosport water temp and oil pressure gauges, Home Depot lip, M3 rear diffuser ASC-T delete.
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