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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 08-21-2007, 04:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Is this normal? electrical question

Is it normal for the electrical components on a '92 318i (radio, for example) to remain on after the car has been turned off and the key removed from the ignition, but then to turn off automatically only after the driver door has been opened AND closed?

Just trying to figure out if this is by design (like you still want to listen to the radio after you turn the car off and open your door) or if I have an electrical problem. Thanks for your help.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i'd say u have electrical problems have a look in your fuse box, someone might have had a play with your fuses and connected a few together. Thats what happened to my car and now windows work 24/7.
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WarNox
i'd say u have electrical problems have a look in your fuse box, someone might have had a play with your fuses and connected a few together. Thats what happened to my car and now windows work 24/7.
Yeah,

I think something's not right with the car. Sometimes it does what I described, and other times the radio shuts off once the key is turned off. There are a couple of other interesting electrical issues with the car as well.

The map light fades in and out when the switch is set to the middle position (light on when door is open) while I'm driving, etc. Hopefully I'll figure it out soon enough. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've got 24/7 windows as well.
But I know why... The power windows (all four) failed on my 92 318i. I found the central lock controller (behind glove box, to the right of the ABS controller) wasn't grounding the comfort relay. (Pin 9 on the smaller white plug from the lock controller to Pin 9 on the relay) There was continuity along the wire, so I figured the lock controller was fubar'd. I ran a wire from chassis ground to pin 9 on the comfort relay, so basically the system is always hot, and I will use the window cut off switch on the dashboard to cut power when I'm not in the car until I get around to replacing the central lock controller, or finding a ground source that is interrupted with the key off.
Someone has probably decided they didn't want to buy the $350 central lock module and perma-grounded your circuit as well.
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Old 10-04-2007, 08:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by spicer
I've got 24/7 windows as well.
But I know why... The power windows (all four) failed on my 92 318i. I found the central lock controller (behind glove box, to the right of the ABS controller) wasn't grounding the comfort relay. (Pin 9 on the smaller white plug from the lock controller to Pin 9 on the relay) There was continuity along the wire, so I figured the lock controller was fubar'd. I ran a wire from chassis ground to pin 9 on the comfort relay, so basically the system is always hot, and I will use the window cut off switch on the dashboard to cut power when I'm not in the car until I get around to replacing the central lock controller, or finding a ground source that is interrupted with the key off.
Someone has probably decided they didn't want to buy the $350 central lock module and perma-grounded your circuit as well.
Where is the comfort relay located? Also, what does it look like?

I'm not sure if I have a perma-ground circuit because the interior lights occassionally fade on and off while I'm driving when I have it set to 'only on when doors are open' position. I've just given up on having functioning automatic interior lights.

Thanks for you help.
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If the lights come on while you are driving it most likely needs a new drivers door catch. What has happened is the switch in the catch is going bad and the car thinks the door is open when it really isn't.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the lights come on while you are driving it most likely needs a new drivers door catch. What has happened is the switch in the catch is going bad and the car thinks the door is open when it really isn't.
You are on to something there. The door catch switch did go bad, which caused me to be uanble to lock the doors using my key, so I would press in the switch with my finger, lock the doors, then shut the driver's door. I got tired of doing that so I pulled a latch from a junk car and the problem went away.

I guess it is possible that the switch is so sensitive to cause the lights to occassionally come on and then go off. Your theory is odd to me because the lights come on, stay on, and then go off at different time intervals for different periods of time, which would leave me to believe that the switch works periodically.

I could jump out the switch and see if the lights come on when they aren't supposed to and if they do, then I know my problem is somewhere else. The only thing is that it is a pain to reinstall those door latches (the threads that the torx bolts attach to are on a plate that is not attached to the door frame).

Thanks for your advice.
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Old 10-07-2007, 03:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I also have a weird problem with my central locking. I have a 93 318i and an after market immobilizer installed. The problem is that the central locking works intermittently. If I try to lock the car manually by pressing the drivers side lock down, all the other locks go down and then they all jump back up again.

The wierdest part of it all is that sometime it all works perfectly. I suspect eithe r a cracked solder joint somewhere in the electronics, or a bad ground somewhere, maybe I should go and dig behind the glove compartment
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Comfort relay is under the steering column, it's a blue relay.. there are only a couple up there. Pin 9 grounds it from the central lock module, and it powers the cut-off switch (dashboard, right of steering wheel).
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