3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
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hey everyone, just purchased my first bmw, it is 1992 bmw 325 is with auto...
i have a question..
first of all the car drives fine but when under accel, it does not go smooth all the way to 6500 rpms.. basically it feels like it accel. fine for a sec, then next sec. at slower rate, then at normal rate again.. and so on. it is not really noticable for a first time drive i would say but after driving it for a week now, i start to be worried what could it be?
same thing with idle btw... rpms don't jump or drop but the engine seems to have these phases of not smooth operation...
i have cleaned my icv.. and same thing...
cleaned injectors... same thing.
replaced my oily plugs... yeah i am gonna replace valve cover gasket soon..and same thing again..
alright, i did some research on this forum and found that i am not alone and there are number of posters having similar symptoms with the on and off accel....
if any of you reading this could you give me follow up if you were able to fix the problem?
some of you said that it could be coils and i know my coils are kinda old so that could be it.... my valve cover leaks and my plugs have some oil on them, so could that be an issue?
BTW, the problem seems to have exist before 5000 rpms on my car... once you pass this it seems to accel. normally fast.
ALSO, my mpg gauge seems to move a little bit as well when it happens.. basically when it is on, mpg shows lower numbers and next second it moves to the left when car loses accel. power... all that being done when throttle in same position.. like halfway open...
???
I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP ON THE SUBJECT>>
hmmm , these are always the hardest to diagnose for me, only because over the internet , you really cant get a good grasp on whats happening in real time, however i will try to give you some more ideas like check the airfilter and fuelfilter, it could be as simple as that, there was another thing but for the life of me i cant remember what its called... (something to do with the auto gearbox)
Have you checked out the throttle body? Does your cable move as much as it is supposed to? Does it get caught on anything? Does you car also have any idle problems also? Have you seen a decrease in your MPG?
Just trying to throw some other stuff out there for you to think about.
But the airfilter is a good possibility. If it's an aftermarket one, take it out and clean it, if it's stock replace with another stock or aftermarket.
air filter is a brand new, replaced it right a way after i bought it the car
did not check o2 censor but i would imagine it would give me fault code...
did not replace my fuel filter yet... going to do it early next week.
could it be tranny? I mean it shifts smothly and everything it is just above 4500 rpms you can feel it shift a little more but from my experince of driving other cars it is usually normal...
yeah i am going to replace oil in my tranny next week as well
i am going to replace valve cover gasket because i have very little oil in my spark plug holes...
and a ventilation hose and connectors are wet in oil so it needs some replacing as well...
Originally posted by thekid@Jul 3 2005, 03:43 PM Have you checked out the throttle body? Does your cable move as much as it is supposed to? Does it get caught on anything? Does you car also have any idle problems also? Have you seen a decrease in your MPG?
Just trying to throw some other stuff out there for you to think about.
But the airfilter is a good possibility. If it's an aftermarket one, take it out and clean it, if it's stock replace with another stock or aftermarket.
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yeah, when car is idling it is the same thing as during acceleration.. basically rpms don't jump or drop crazy... but i can feel that the engine doesn't burn fuel smoothly.. i guess it is similar thing is if rpms would drop from 800 to let's say 350 and back up but only the actual needls stays relatively at the same level... at about 700 rpms when at idle.
i looked at throttle body and it looks ok in there. not really dirty, relatively clean and in addition to that i clean my injectors few days ago at straus discount auto... they added some crap to my engine oil as well and now it looks reddish yellow.. but that didn't really make any changes
I still say it could be the 02 sensor
I doubt it's the tranny, if that was messed up it seems like it would be shifting instead of the rpm's just going down
BTW
i havent ever changed my spark pluygs, and I kinda have the same problem, could that possibly be it
and Compression faults? how much are those to fix, and what are the symtpoms
Btw how much is it to fix spark plugs with maintinence from like a shop?
Originally posted by BMW-ATI@Jul 3 2005, 05:23 PM I still say it could be the 02 sensor
I doubt it's the tranny, if that was messed up it seems like it would be shifting instead of the rpm's just going down
BTW
i havent ever changed my spark pluygs, and I kinda have the same problem, could that possibly be it
and Compression faults? how much are those to fix, and what are the symtpoms
Btw how much is it to fix spark plugs with maintinence from like a shop?
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yeah it could be the o2 cesor but i will leave it for last thing to check...
i replaced spark plugs with bosch platinum 4s and it didn't make any difference...
i have some oil, very little in my plug holes, so when i replaced them, i just tried to clean the holes and everything around as best as i could..
but if you havn't changed plugs yet, you should definately do it...
i think faulted or burned up plug will give worse results than simply dirty icv acceleration wise..
i also tend to think that it could be coils for my plugs... because they look kinda old and slightly burned up at the edges... but i cleaned them from any oil and just put them back.
i am not sure about compression tests, i haven't done it, so i don't know how much it is..
but you should replace your plugs yourself because in this case you will see condition of your coils and if there is any oil in plug holes and condition of plugs
i believe 6 plugs would be about 30 bucks to buy and i guess the shop will charge you another 30-40 to install...
No, you don't have vanos so thats not it. Question, when you changed your spark plugs did you get as much of the oil out of the hole before you pulled the plug? if not then that oil that seeped down could have fouled your new plugs. Also when my O2 sensor went out on me I could tell it was going out weeks before, but no code. Finally I ordered the part online and sure enough the next day my check engine light came on. So it could be contributing to your problem and the code wont be thrown yet.
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