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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 08:20 AM
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hi guys... a couple of weeks ago my car was overheating so i changed the water pump and thermostat... the plastic impeller was almost ripped!!! good thing i changed it...

last night i drove my car, and my car started overheating again!!! so now i'm stuck on what to do next... i'm thinking that it has something to do with my radiator...

i need insights guys... your help would be deeply appreciated...
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 09:28 AM
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Two thing to look at
1. Did you bleed the coolant system fully when you change the pump.
To do this: Without the engine running and the rad cap off heater full hot and demist, remove the bleed screw by the rad cap pour in coolant till it runs out of the bleed screw hole pour a bit more coolant in to remove as much air as you can, put the bleed screw in by 2 turns (still loose), start the engine (rad cap still off) coolant and air should now come out the bleed screw and there should be a small jet of coolant shooting into the to of the rad. When you're happy all the air is out tighten the bleed screw and if the rad cap.
2. If you don't get a good flow into the rad: Maybe there's a bit of the pump impeller Stuck in the coolant jacket somewhere I've seen this before but they can be hard to find.
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 09:42 AM
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How old is ur radiator? You have to change it every 60-80K miles($200 from pelicanparts.com + Labor)...maybe time for new one...also ur coolant sensor might be screwed (30 bux, Ebay.com +Labor)

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#4 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bad man working@Apr 9 2005, 10:28 AM
Two thing to look at
1. Did you bleed the coolant system fully when you change the pump.
To do this: Without the engine running and the rad cap off heater full hot and demist, remove the bleed screw by the rad cap pour in coolant till it runs out of the bleed screw hole pour a bit more coolant in to remove as much air as you can, put the bleed screw in by 2 turns (still loose), start the engine (rad cap still off) coolant and air should now come out the bleed screw and there should be a small jet of coolant shooting into the to of the rad. When you're happy all the air is out tighten the bleed screw and if the rad cap.
2. If you don't get a good flow into the rad: Maybe there's a bit of the pump impeller Stuck in the coolant jacket somewhere I've seen this before but they can be hard to find.
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i bleed the coolant thru the reservois and the car's not overheating anymore... thanks man!!!
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-09-2005, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedInfusion@Apr 9 2005, 10:42 AM
How old is ur radiator? You have to change it every 60-80K miles($200 from pelicanparts.com + Labor)...maybe time for new one...also ur coolant sensor might be screwed (30 bux, Ebay.com +Labor)
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yep definitely i need to change the radiator... i noticed one of the hoses that connects from the radiator thru the thermostat is warm, and the other one is not... so i guess this is my next move... thanks for the advice
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