Need To Replace Struts/shocks - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 09:00 AM
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Please help me replace struts/shocks on my 1994 325IC. Is there a write-up where I can replace struts/shocks? The dealer is charging an arm and a leg. I think I can do it on my own. I just need to know if some one has documented it.

Thanks.
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 09:03 AM
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Strut & Shock DIYHere is the write up..front struts require a professional spring compressor so beware..

Complete mod list and pics:

My 1993 325i
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by akbart@Oct 4 2004, 08:00 AM

Please help me replace struts/shocks on my 1994 325IC. Is there a write-up where I can replace struts/shocks? The dealer is charging an arm and a leg. I think I can do it on my own. I just need to know if some one has documented it.

Thanks.
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 09:55 AM
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PEP BOYS was doing the installation for $50.00 per side.
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-04-2004, 01:29 PM
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You can rent the spring compressor for cheap. You can do all four in one day. If you have any more questions or speifics that are not covered in the DIY that I wrote up and was linked to you in the second post, feel free to PM me, e-mail me or IM me on AIM, the S/N should be in the profile.
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#6 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 02:13 PM
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I just replaced my structs and shocks. It was a rather straight forward job, except for the rear springs. Normal spring compressors do not fit in the space where the rear shocks are. I bought some steel cable and clamps, riased the wheel with a jack - thus comrpessing the spring - and wrapped three steel bands around the spring, holding it together with the clamps. When I lowered the wheel the spring came out easily. I used the spring compressor (cheap $30 unit) to hold the spring together while I took the steel cable out (I did not want the spring to jump out from me, or towards me!). I used the reverse procedure to put the new spring in (compressed with the spring compressor, held it together with the steel cable, put it on, raised the wheel undid the cable clamps).

Good luck!
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#7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 02:54 PM
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They make another type of spring compressor that works on springs like the Bimmer has in the back. Many cars have springs that mount outboard of the shocks. You just have to ask for the right one.

Suspension work is easy. Just unbolt things until it's all apart. Then put it back together. Seriously.

Eric

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#8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 03:02 PM
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It’s been several years since I have had a car with McPherson struts so my technique is dated. Rather than using cable and clamps as described above I’ve used regular metal shirt hangers (2 or 3 to be sort of safe) to hold the springs compressed while still on the car. Once the new strut cylinder is installed and the assembly is re-bolted to the control arm and frame. It’s a simple matter of jacking up the entire control arm assemble until all of the slack is taken up and then cutting the coat hanger. Of course you need to support the car with jack stands to be on the safe side.
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#9 (permalink) Old 10-13-2004, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by acruzat@Oct 13 2004, 01:13 PM
I just replaced my structs and shocks. It was a rather straight forward job, except for the rear springs. Normal spring compressors do not fit in the space where the rear shocks are. I bought some steel cable and clamps, riased the wheel with a jack - thus comrpessing the spring - and wrapped three steel bands around the spring, holding it together with the clamps. When I lowered the wheel the spring came out easily. I used the spring compressor (cheap $30 unit) to hold the spring together while I took the steel cable out (I did not want the spring to jump out from me, or towards me!). I used the reverse procedure to put the new spring in (compressed with the spring compressor, held it together with the steel cable, put it on, raised the wheel undid the cable clamps).

Good luck!
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YOu don't need a spring compressor for the back... sorry didn't think to tell you how to do it before. But all you had to do was jack up the back. Take off the wheel ect, then put a second jack underneath the rotor and whatever it is lower spring perch thingy. Then diconnect and let it down. Take the spring out and then put in the new one and the jack up the jack under the brake/spring perch thing until you can reconnect it.
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#10 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by acruzat@Oct 13 2004, 01:13 PM
I just replaced my structs and shocks. It was a rather straight forward job, except for the rear springs. Normal spring compressors do not fit in the space where the rear shocks are. I bought some steel cable and clamps, riased the wheel with a jack - thus comrpessing the spring - and wrapped three steel bands around the spring, holding it together with the clamps. When I lowered the wheel the spring came out easily. I used the spring compressor (cheap $30 unit) to hold the spring together while I took the steel cable out (I did not want the spring to jump out from me, or towards me!). I used the reverse procedure to put the new spring in (compressed with the spring compressor, held it together with the steel cable, put it on, raised the wheel undid the cable clamps).

Good luck!*
[snapback]210565[/snapback]
Why would you need a spring compressor for the rear springs? They are independant and you can just pop them out without removing the shock.

Whoops, just read your reply now.. sorry.

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#11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 12:34 PM
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Well, I'm starting to think you guys have a different car! On my car ('93 325is) when I take the rear damper off and let the wheel hang, the spring DOES NOT come out. It is still compressed between that deep saucer-like thing on the bottom and the upper rubber point. I used a pry bar to try to take it out, but I was seriously pushing the wheel down and was afraid I would damage or bend the connecting rod (in fact the service manual says you have to disconect it). I actually disconnected this rod on one side and still the wheel would not come down enough to let me pull the spring out easily; though I finally did it. On the other side I did not even take out the Torx bolts for the connecting rod, but rather used the procedure I described above.

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#12 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by acruzat@Oct 14 2004, 11:34 AM
Well, I'm starting to think you guys have a different car! On my car ('93 325is) when I take the rear damper off and let the wheel hang, the spring DOES NOT come out. It is still compressed between that deep saucer-like thing on the bottom and the upper rubber point. I used a pry bar to try to take it out, but I was seriously pushing the wheel down and was afraid I would damage or bend the connecting rod (in fact the service manual says you have to disconect it). I actually disconnected this rod on one side and still the wheel would not come down enough to let me pull the spring out easily; though I finally did it. On the other side I did not even take out the Torx bolts for the connecting rod, but rather used the procedure I described above.


[snapback]211169[/snapback]
You are supposed to disconnect everything... this is not a great pic for it but the best that I have here with me. You take the tire off and disconnet all of these bolts that connect the brake housing to the spring perch... and I believe that is it... Auto help me out here it has been a while since I have done this... and didn't have my camera with me at the time....I think there is a mount for the lower spring perch some where there on the brake housing thing... but you could just diconnect it completely for sure...
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#13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2004, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by thekid+Oct 14 2004, 03:38 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(thekid @ Oct 14 2004, 03:38 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-acruzat@Oct 14 2004, 11:34 AM
Well, I'm starting to think you guys have a different car! On my car ('93 325is) when I take the rear damper off and let the wheel hang, the spring DOES NOT come out. It is still compressed between that deep saucer-like thing on the bottom and the upper rubber point. I used a pry bar to try to take it out, but I was seriously pushing the wheel down and was afraid I would damage or bend the connecting rod (in fact the service manual says you have to disconect it). I actually disconnected this rod on one side and still the wheel would not come down enough to let me pull the spring out easily; though I finally did it. On the other side I did not even take out the Torx bolts for the connecting rod, but rather used the procedure I described above.


[snapback]211169[/snapback]
You are supposed to disconnect everything... this is not a great pic for it but the best that I have here with me. You take the tire off and disconnet all of these bolts that connect the brake housing to the spring perch... and I believe that is it... Auto help me out here it has been a while since I have done this... and didn't have my camera with me at the time....I think there is a mount for the lower spring perch some where there on the brake housing thing... but you could just diconnect it completely for sure...
[snapback]211337[/snapback]
[/b][/quote]


I know what you mean, but still after I disconected everything, including the lower arm, the brake caliper and the torsion bar, I could not get the spring out without compressing it. I used a pry bar on the first one I did and decided to use the other method for the other side. I could not get the lower spring perch out though. Maybe I should have looked for a way to do that.
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