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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 09-09-2004, 12:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I came back from BMW service hell today...they want $800 to fix the problems mentioned above...as well as replace the belts to fix a sqeaking problem that isn't being cause by the belts...so yeah..it's been that kind of day.

I need to know if these are things I can possibly do myself (I realize this is pretty objective based a million things). But any help here would be awesome. These are the things I need to do:

1. The drivers side door lock is not working with my key remote...BMW Diagnosis--- A new Drivers side Door Lock Actuator

**Does anyone have any experience with this? If you do, please share.

2. AC is blowing only on high, and something sounds like it is still "blowing" behind the dash when AC/Heat is off...BMW Diagnosis---one page said "A/C Fan Resistor", another said "Final Stage Unit for HVAC System"

**Are these the same thing? Is it possible for the average do-it-your-selfer to replace this? Apparently you have to take apart the dash to get to it...

Thanks so much fellas for any experience here...
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks like u got a few easy problems 2 solve here, if u got the right tools, and hopefully the right diagnosis...

Make sure the windows up. Remove the door panel. Dependin on wat Beemer u've got, u might have a security shield to remove tha covers the latch inside the door. Unclip the door handle and locking bars at the latch end. Disconnect the locking solenoid connector. Unbolt the latch from the door. Slide the whole assembly out of the cutout in the door. Remove the locking solenoid from the latch assembly and fit ur new 1. Then jus pop it all bak in the door n refit it all...

As for ur blower problem, if it is the resistor pak thats blown, u need 2 take out the glovebox n have a search around the blower motor casing until u find the resistor pak, it's easier 2 spot if u kno wat it looks like (having the new part with u)... I aint 2 sure wat the other part is sorry or if its the same as the resistor pak, but a blown resistor pak will cause loss of all blower speeds except full speed...

Well I hope this lot helps... It really aint too hard...
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Old 09-09-2004, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks SK1D!

Anyone else have any input...NYC???????
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Old 09-10-2004, 07:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I ordered an ac final stage unit from bavauto and will attempt to install it next week...if anyone has any other info regarding this and how to install it please let me know...otherwise I guess we can just keep talking about which are better...ZKW's or DEPO's...
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Old 09-10-2004, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Don't think I can help much with the actual mechanics of changing it out but I just had my resister replaced a couple of weeks ago and I watched as it was replaced. AC kept going from low to hi on its own, seemed to only happen when the outside temp was 85+ degrees. I took it to a local shop that specializes in bimmers instead of the BMW dealership-they would have charged me $200 more than what I paid at the local shop. Anyway, I watched as the mechanic changed it out. He accessed the resister from the inside-driver's side, just to the right of the steering wheel where the fan is. The shop preferred using an original bmw resister but there are aftermarket resisters available too. The whole procedure took about 1/2 hour so I paid for the time and $100 for the resister. Apparently the all metal (I think it was aluminum) resisters failed often so the new resisters are half metal and half plastic. Obviously the model and year determine the resister, good luck.
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Old 09-18-2004, 04:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I also experienced the spastic climate control system in my 1998 323is. I followed the extensive threads on replacing the capacitor on the fan control computer. No luck. This was not the problem.

I assumed I would need to replace the $300 fan control computer outright, so I called the dealer and asked for a quote for the part. The very helpful guy at the parts counter said: "have you replaced the Final Stage? We replace at least 20 of those a week." Hmmm. Sounds good. So I bought one for a little more that $100, and asked him where it was located. He said "behind the glovebox", which was incorrect. ghead (See image 1)

The part is located (see image 2) to the right of the accelerator pedal, under the dash between the blower and firewall. It is easily accessible and the part is held in with two T20 Torx screws. You'll need to take off the lower dash panel, but this is pretty painless.

I swapped out the Final Stage (see image 3) and it worked!

Upon further investigation, the reason the part failed in the first place became readily apparent (see image 4).
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Old 09-20-2004, 03:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by RIBEMR26@Sep 10 2004, 08:06 PM
I ordered an ac final stage unit from bavauto and will attempt to install it next week...if anyone has any other info regarding this and how to install it please let me know...otherwise I guess we can just keep talking about which are better...ZKW's or DEPO's...
ZKW's even though I got Depos :P

The stock headlights actually are better then all

But if anyone needs help with headlights make sure to contact me.
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Old 09-20-2004, 04:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
the part is held in with two T20 Torx screws.
What are Torx screws?

Do they require a special tool to remove them?


"big ups" to bfeldman who solved my impossible problem...Mr. Bentley himself never even came across this one (although apparently BMW does often...lol)
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Old 11-11-2004, 08:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What are Torx screws?

Do they require a special tool to remove them?

-=----------------

Torx screws look like a 6 legged star and the screw driver is cheap to buy not more than a couple of bucks. they come in different sizes T15,T20,T25 etc....
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bfeldman@protoprod.com@Sep 18 2004, 04:51 PM
I also experienced the spastic climate control system in my 1998 323is. I followed the extensive threads on replacing the capacitor on the fan control computer. No luck. This was not the problem.

I assumed I would need to replace the $300 fan control computer outright, so I called the dealer and asked for a quote for the part. The very helpful guy at the parts counter said: "have you replaced the Final Stage? We replace at least 20 of those a week." Hmmm. Sounds good. So I bought one for a little more that $100, and asked him where it was located. He said "behind the glovebox", which was incorrect. ghead (See image 1)

The part is located (see image 2) to the right of the accelerator pedal, under the dash between the blower and firewall. It is easily accessible and the part is held in with two T20 Torx screws. You'll need to take off the lower dash panel, but this is pretty painless.

I swapped out the Final Stage (see image 3) and it worked!

Upon further investigation, the reason the part failed in the first place became readily apparent (see image 4).
[snapback]193962[/snapback]


I just replaced the final stage resistor, and nothing...what else can it be? I have no blower running and no heat or ac? been reading on this and ordered the part..please help...
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Old 12-31-2004, 01:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If oyu have digital climate control it could possibly be the whole unit that is bad.... ~bump~
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