Hello, I am new to the site, I have been using the info i picked up on Google from you guys and have been very helpful, Thanks! I have a 318I 94' and my head gasket went, or the head crack one or the other or both! I pulled the head i notice the crack in the #2 cyclinder. Since then i have purchased a new head it came today in good condition, I have ARP Head Studs, a .120 Cometic head Gasket, a T3 T4 turbo, OBX mani and down pipe, VAC fuel injectors 42lb, Wal 255 fuelpump, ajustible pressure regulator, i am ordering the W.A.R Chip the week and i am looking to change exhaust from down pipe back, would like to know some good placing to look online.
My Question is everytime I see postings on turbo M42's the people talking don't have turbos on the M42's I would like to hear from someone with a turbo M42 about what they learned while building a tuning their car, I would really like to hear about Water injection owners also.
I actually met someone a few years ago near where I go to school who had a turbo E30 318i. It was a budget build and he claimed that he spent no more than $1,000 on the entire setup. He sourced the turbo from a Saab and did all the work himself.
This image is straight from my Facebook and dates back to 2007
Personally, I think the M42 is a great candidate in the BMW family for some F/I love and it is a very strong motor in stock form. Small boost (under 10 pounds) seems to be very reliable on this motor from most threads I have read.
On the issue of water injection, it will definitely allow you to make a little more power by cooling down the intake temps. It will also help the engine run cooler too when driven hard. One of the forum vendors is actually a supplier for water/meth kits so I would contact them.
It seems that most people run low boost in the 6-8 pound range off of the factory DME with no tuning. Obviously, that is risky and personally I would pay to have the car tuned properly (or tune it myself if I had the time and patience). I would also look into upgrading some elements of your fuel system as well in order to accommodate the needs of the turbo a little bit better. There is a ton of info all over the net on turbo M42 setups. This is not a huge F/I forum but we'll help you in anyway we can.
I started the turbo build on my 318, I had the new head machined, received the W.A.R Chip, 42lb injectors, I got an ebay turbo kit the mani looks like it will last a long time but only time will tell, the turbo i have is a 57 trim which i plan on rebuilding with Gerrett guts, and everything you can think of to support the build.
I had planned on working on my car for the three day weekend i had from work but others needed my assistance, I put a clutch in a e34 and help my sister move. I only had time to mount the head. The head is stock cams are stock the only mod to the engine would be the .120 Cometic gasket and ARP head studs 2000 series. they say it will take compression from 10:1 to 8.5:1. I have heard of others running stock compression with stock motors running 10 and 12lbs. I am hoping with my setup i could run a full bar.
I understand i would need new cams when I hit 15psi the cams I am looking at will cost 1000 bucks so i think i will have a motor built fully over the winter
and put the cams in that motor.
Plans for the fully built motor is not in stone but what i would like to do is have a block sleeved and look into the diesel crank i see floating around on the forums and of course address the rod bearings. I been looking a the stage 3 head from VAC motors sports and i would have the turbo cams put in there.
the pistons i do not know which route i will go custom or shelf turbo pistons.
.70 Cometic Head Gasket. I would like the compression to stay around 8.5 to help with the low end grunt, the turbo i am not sure which brand or size but i would like to have a turbo the can support 700hp seamlessly. ( my goal is 500whp) so of course a RRFPR pressurizing 750cc injectors and dual fuel pumps one secondary and one full duty. I have not made the call yet to see what materials can be cryo dipped but i am hearing i can dump a whole motor for $750 which i think is not bad considering the tensile strength of the motor will be crazy so it will last a long time provided i do not abuse it.
till then i will be running around in my stock turbo setup and i feel confident that it will be a lot of fun. i am hearing the if i can run 1 bar i could see crank HP to be around 280 to 300hp. That would be great!!!!!
I am almost done! i have the turbo installed and now putting the cams back tomorrow i still have to run the boost gauge, turbo timer, vacuum hoses, fuel pump, and W.A.R chip. The oil drain was a pain i spent the whole day on it rotating the turbo to get the best fit. i think i will have to redone it with a scavenger pump. I am hopping i can get it to crank by tomorrow night. Just i run down on what is installed. OBX turbo manifold 57 Trim turbo (Chinese) if it burns out i will have a garrett rebuild kit waiting for it, 42lb (440cc) Injectors, 95 318 MAF, intercooler, Fuel pressure reg, NGK irumiaum IX plugs!
I wanted to meet someone with the ARP head studs and Cometic head gasket, I have a .120, i was told it took compression 8:1 or 8.5:1, with the war chip i am hoping to tune it to the edge for maximum fun on one setting then moderate, and then wife mode.
I want to know what degrees some of you all are setting spark atdc? would -10 be too extreme? the thing is Miller dose not have any maps in an e36 with the 990 ECU, I have to modify the chip so i can run the USB out the top on the case, they say it will still work but with the 990 i have to solder the chip to the board and tune it from scratch. once i get it running good enough to drive i will take it to the dyno to dial it in. i am hoping to squeeze 250 to 300 crank, I think with 8:1 compression i can squeeze 1 bar into it, what do you think?
Today i got the motor back together, now on the ECU. It is hell to de-solder the chip. worked on it for 2 hours and still has not released from the board. i will try again tomorrow. i am hoping to crank it up tomorrow. I still have to strap up the exhaust,wires, and oil feed. still have to run vacuum, and install fuel pump. cross your fingers.
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