M40 engine on E36 - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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#1 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 05:16 AM
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M40 engine on E36

Hi, to all e36 enthusiast who have m40 under their hood.. please check in.
i have an m40 b18 engine on my e36 318i series.
most of the engine ive seen on their e36 are m42.. but rare with m40's.
i hope we can discuss in this thread issues and tips on m40's.
thanks in advance for viewing
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 11:33 AM
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...and why the bentley manual didnt include the m40 engine on their module?
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 09:08 AM
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hey BOSS999, yeah I'm one of the fortunate( :/ )ones to have the m40 platform in my 1993 e36 O.o.... I didn't really know too much about my motor until i started researching the timing issue i have seem to be having. I was actually quite surprized that this engine is only a SOHC, it has quite alot of spunk for a 1.8 4cly car. but anywho i'm having the sperratic exceleration problem that alot of m40 owners have had. I think the only solid information for my problem is that the m40 has preoblems with eating thru cam shafts.

What happens is my car has a rough idel after a cold start. it will radicaly idle from 500 to 1000k. After engine is warmed the car idles fine. i belive this is due to a dirty ICV or AFM. but i can live with that problem.

Moslipping goes away. i have read on multipule forum threads that this motor will need to have its cam shaft replaced after so many miles. I just want to know if anyone has had thier camshaft replaced becuase of this problem and if work like i herd.
re recently is seems to be, put best, stalling out under heavy throtle. i press the gas and there is no go got just a clicking/lightback firing sound. then after a few seconds doing this the engine catch's and goes.... i usually have this porblem on first and second gears during acceleration and 3 and fourth gear at low speeds. the car still has good pull once the slipping stops.
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-30-2008, 11:51 AM
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hi m40man,
regarding the erratic idle, i think its really problem of most of E36, i also encounter that problem sometimes and i tried cleaning the air flow meter every 5 months, and it goes. i also noticed that slipping problem.
my m40 has already 160,+++ on its odometer and i havent change my camshaft. i hope all the bimmer with m40 engine can contribute into this thread...
Thank you
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 10:45 AM
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It seems to be that we are the only ones with this motor or atleast know what the M40b18/16 looks like!!!! I have about 175,xxxkm on mine. After my secondary car (1993 Seat Toledo) was stolen last weekend I am a little worried how serious this problem might be with the Bimmer... When time come im going to take it to this Italian AutoShope so they can jack me after i sighn my car over to them . My cars always seem to have more problems after i take it to a shop out here. Not too much i can do. I just wish i was back in States so that i could rent the tools and do it myself. If they figure out what the cause of this is then i'll hit you back and tell you what to look for.

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#6 (permalink) Old 10-02-2008, 09:02 AM
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thats sad...a stolen toledo? ... m40 engine was also installed on e34 518 series., have you tried cleaning your air flow meter again? fuel filters? and some pipe leaks... these are few things that the mechanics told me.. but lets just keep this thread alive and wait for fellow bimmer with m40 engines..
... i apreciate my gas consumption with m40 engine.. average of 14km/l... topspeed of 185km with overspeeding violation on the hiway lol.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 08:20 AM
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m40 idle, stall, economy mpg and power problem

Greetings to all (3 of us!) e36 enthusiasts with m40s!

My beauty is a 1991 e36 318 (m40b18) Automatic with a multi point injection LPG (autogas) conversion. The odo has just ticked over 150k; I bought it last August with a FSH. I recently had an Inspection II service at a local garage (the guy claimed to know about beemers, but I'm not sure how much I believe him...)

It has been serving me well until about October of last year when the weather started getting cold (well, colder, I live in the North East of the UK - it's always some form of cold!), allow me to embellish...

It started as a slightly irregular idle, sometimes bouncing between 500 and 1400 rpm, then settling down pretty quickly. Some time later (November) I noticed the auto box not shifting up as quickly as it should, especially between 3rd and 4th whether accelerating hard or not. Gradually the idle has been getting worse, and I'm getting pretty poor fuel economy. I've noticed it's lacking in power in the mid range and picks up slowly from low revs, which could account for the slow upshift but I'm no expert! Hence the name, haha!

In the past few weeks, the idle has been so poor it stalls occasionally, meaning I have to brake with my left foot while keeping the engine at ~1000 rpm manually when at junctions. I guess this isn't too good for the gear box... Poor thing!

Also, I've noticed the engine warms up pretty quickly, but the temp gauge only goes 1/4 to 1/3 the way along the dial. My regular driving is commuting to work, so local roads (30mph) for 5 mins, then 20 mins motorway (50-70 mph), then local roads again for 5 mins, would this mean my engine is cooled by driving at speed, rather than sitting in town traffic? Or is there something wrong with my cooling system / thermostat?

One more problem: the rear exhaust/silencer is blowing a little. I can't afford a new exhaust at the moment and would rather sort out the running problem first.

Getting back to the idle/mpg problem, it seems to happen whether the engine is cold or warm, and whether the car is on petrol or LPG. It happens whether the gearbox is in P, N or any of the drive options, but the idling engine is closer to stalling when in drive. The idle is mildly worse when on LPG, could this be due to the higher octane rating? Also the idle is worse when electrical items are switched on, especially high power ones such as the rear windscreen heater.

I haven't been getting any strong smells of petrol (or autogas), so I guess the mixture isn't running rich. If I assume it's not running correctly (stoichiometrically) then it must be running lean right? Can this damage my engine? I've been trying not to do any excessive accelerating recently as I don't trust the temp gauge...

Having trawled the internet for easy and cheap solutions to this kind of problem I removed, cleaned up and re-installed my ICV which had no noticeable effect.

Next I inspected the AFM, the vane seems to move freely and the connector was free of corrosion.

I then had a listen all round the intake and throttle area for air leaks and heard nothing. I then disconnected the air boot from the AFM and stuck my hand over the end with the engine running - the suction was pretty powerful and the engine stopped almost immediately. Would this mean I can rule out vacuum leaks? Or could it be more subtle than the test I applied?

Last week I took it to a (different) local garage to get the fault codes read and reset. (This is after about an hour of trying different rhythms of pumping the gas pedal 5 times after turning the ignition to try to get the codes from the CEL light...)

The codes were as follows:

201 - o2 sensor control
70 - o2 sensor circuit
41 - airflow sensor signal

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the code 41 airflow sensor fault can sometimes be false, and it could be from when I disconnected the air boot and started the engine (that was fewer than 60 key turns before reading the codes), so I'm not too worried about the AFM.

I'm getting the codes read again and the o2 sensor replaced on Monday to see if that sorts out the problem. I had a quick look through the service history and didn't see an o2/lambda sensor replacement before so it could well be the root of my idle/mpg/power problem!

Before I get the o2 sensor replaced, is there a cheaper test (smoke test for air leaks???) I can request? I'll see what the codes say and what the mechanic says on Monday.

I think I'll leave draining and flushing the cooling system (and possibly replacing the thermostat) to next month when I can do it myself! Same with the exhaust replacement...

I think there are a load of questions in there somewhere, I'd be most appreciative if anyone can answer any of them, and I'll keep you guys posted as to what happens!
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#8 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 12:13 AM
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Exclamation Wtf!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by M40man View Post
hey BOSS999, yeah I'm one of the fortunate( :/ )ones to have the m40 platform in my 1993 e36 O.o.... I didn't really know too much about my motor until i started researching the timing issue i have seem to be having. I was actually quite surprized that this engine is only a SOHC, it has quite alot of spunk for a 1.8 4cly car. but anywho i'm having the sperratic exceleration problem that alot of m40 owners have had. I think the only solid information for my problem is that the m40 has preoblems with eating thru cam shafts.

What happens is my car has a rough idel after a cold start. it will radicaly idle from 500 to 1000k. After engine is warmed the car idles fine. i belive this is due to a dirty ICV or AFM. but i can live with that problem.

Moslipping goes away. i have read on multipule forum threads that this motor will need to have its cam shaft replaced after so many miles. I just want to know if anyone has had thier camshaft replaced becuase of this problem and if work like i herd.
re recently is seems to be, put best, stalling out under heavy throtle. i press the gas and there is no go got just a clicking/lightback firing sound. then after a few seconds doing this the engine catch's and goes.... i usually have this porblem on first and second gears during acceleration and 3 and fourth gear at low speeds. the car still has good pull once the slipping stops.
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#9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 12:21 AM
OMFG another one!?
 
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One more problem: the rear exhaust/silencer is blowing a little. I can't afford a new exhaust at the moment and would rather sort out the running problem first.
You may wanna consider that this exhaust issue may be the biggest contribution to the other issues; it can confuse the engine CPU with the weird back pressure and result in dodgy code readings.

BMW

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#10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 12:27 AM
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Exclamation Wtf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

M40 is a loser!!! People like you read internet forms and have no true idea about your engine. You guys think that when you read a internet problem, your car is automatically inherited to that specific problem. This is not true. There are so many false claims on the net. Educating yourselves with inaccurate information First the engine is a DOHC. Second, it's 1.6 LT. Third they do on eat through cams. The only true problem is that the break timing chain idler pulleys. Do not use conventional motor in these motors and you will probably never destroy the cams.

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#11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 12:38 AM
OMFG another one!?
 
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Originally Posted by MMSTech View Post
First the engine is a DOHC. Second, it's 1.6 LT. Third they do on eat through cams. The only true problem is that the break timing chain idler pulleys. Do not use conventional motor in these motors and you will probably never destroy the cams.

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Do you mean not to use conventional motor oil? It helps to be clear.

BMW

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#12 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 05:34 PM
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Conventional motor oil

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Originally Posted by witeshark View Post
Do you mean not to use conventional motor oil? It helps to be clear.
Yes, conventional motor oil. Sorry about my error.
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#13 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 05:44 PM
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Wink CrankShaft postion sensor

Check out the crankshaft position sensor.
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#14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 03:02 AM
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i have an m40 engine in my 93 318i and its done 174,000 hasnt eaten any camshafts its just the way people look after them!! it is my understanding that all 318is 4cyl in 1993 was fitted m40s which came from the 316s then they switched to m42s from 94 onwards!!!
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#15 (permalink) Old 03-15-2009, 06:15 PM
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another m40

hi to all, I also have an m40b16 engine on my 1991 e36, with 244k km eaten
the engine work fine and pull well, the idle jump for 2-3 times between 500 and 1000 rpm after a cold start and after that remain at 800.
after reading some doc I think m40 have a belt driven distribution but I'm not 100 % sure, what others know about this?
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