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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 02:41 PM
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My rear passenger side lock doesn't lock and unlock. I have to manually pull the lock up and down. What should i look at replacing? And does anyone know what it might cost?
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 03:28 PM
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Check the rubber (near door hinge) on a broken wire.

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#3 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004, 05:07 PM
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I have the same problem on my driver side door on my 1998 318ti one of these days I will take the door pannel off and hook up a meter to see if it is getting power.
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 03:32 PM
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I had the same problem with my driver's side door. It was my door lock actuator - $80 from BMW. It also caused locking problems with my factory alarm. (the locks would lock immediately after you unlock them and vice versa)

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#5 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 03:40 PM
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Had the problem once on my old car. I took the panneling off and found it was a bad connection. The wire wasn't touching, so 10 min later with a sauldering iron and I fixed the problem. That's just one possibility...

<span style='font-size:8pt;line-height:100%'><span style='color:blue'>1998 BMW 323is Coupe, Black
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 06:37 PM
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Most likely the door lock actuator.
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-26-2004, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by camnipotent@Apr 26 2004, 04:20 PM
Had the problem once on my old car. I took the panneling off and found it was a bad connection. The wire wasn't touching, so 10 min later with a sauldering iron and I fixed the problem. That's just one possibility...
I hope that is what my problem is. It works every now and then, so to me it sounds like a bad connection, but even if I have to replace that actuator for $80 it's not that bad. The alarm functions flawlessly.
Do you have to have a special tool to remove the power mirror switch, or can you remove it with other normal hand tools?
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-28-2004, 05:49 PM
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Mine works sometimes too. I had an aftermarket top of the line Viper alarm installed because it didn't come with the factory one. So i should start with pullin off the paneling and looking for a bad connection?
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-28-2004, 11:15 PM
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It wouldn't hurt. It might not be the problem though but you won't know unless you try. It worked for me.

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1.0 Farad Capacitor
800 Watt 2-Way Rockford Fosgate Amplifier</span></span>
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#10 (permalink) Old 04-28-2004, 11:49 PM
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nothing really special is needed for any of the door parts. Just something to pry with.

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#11 (permalink) Old 04-29-2004, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 123NotIt@Apr 26 2004, 04:12 PM
I had the same problem with my driver's side door. It was my door lock actuator - $80 from BMW. It also caused locking problems with my factory alarm. (the locks would lock immediately after you unlock them and vice versa)
gotta love those spendy parts from the bmw dealership! haha but yeah 123 love you car! you got PM

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