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Leaky Water pump or the Themostat Housing

3K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  97alpineM3 
#1 ·
Hello guys I am back again.. with another Good news.. Atlast I tried removing the coolant system .... including the water pump... I surprised to see that its a metallic impeller which was replaced an year ago... and what I noticed from the bottom side of the water pump is a little greasy thing all the way which is flowing down and even at some places it became solid which is hard enough. And thought o.k even though its metallic one.... its leaking???

Do you have any such previous experiences of the metallic water pump going bad after an year?? or do you think its some other leakage which falls on the water pump and leaking from there??

So, after raising this question in my mind, i went and look under the car....... and a bit surprised to see the same greaseee kind of material from all around(i mean at the bottom of the themostat) the thermostat housing... I thought of posting some pics of the leakage for better suggestions ......... is it leaking from the themostat (MOST OF ALL THE THERMOSTAT and THERMOSTAT HOUSING IS JUST REPLACED BY THE DEALER TWO WEEKS BACK)?? So, what do you guys think?? More suggestions are appreciated?? Since I am seeing a leakage from the themostat hosuing (I didn't removed the thermostat housing- because its just replaced??), is it due to the improper work by the dealer ?? and not by the water pump??

Please post your ideas?

What I am thiking is.. since I already bought the metallic WP.. .. just replace the new one?? But I need suggesstions on the Thermostat ?? do you want me to remove the themo stat and take a look into it???
 
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#2 ·
Here is some more input.... I just took out the themostat Housing ....and I see a coolant dropping line running from the thermohousing to the other part(I am not familiar with the parts so, ) and from there falling onto the side of the water pump... I also see some leakage from the thermostat housing to the upper end of the left side hose to some extent....SO, what you guys think... is it due to the improper setting of the themostat gasket or the faulty thermostat or faulty thermostat ...Here are the parts replaced by the Dealer a few weeks back......

11 53 7 511 580 Themostat
11 53 1 740 437 Gasket
11 53 1 722 531 Themostat Housing

the dealer has done nothing charging me $200.. just for the themostat.


So, from the above what are u guys thiking about??

What I am thiking of doing is ... since the themostat and th hosuing a new one ... (may be the guy didn't fix it properly ) fix the same T'stat and TH and try installing a new metallic water pump???

Other than this both (WP and thermostat) is there any other problem that I need to check?? Please let me know.. I will be waiting...
 
#4 ·
If I am understanding you correctly, you already are more than half way through this job. Take some pictures, then go to the dealer, and purchase a new gasket for the thermo housing. Personally, I wouldn't have bought the OEM thermo housing as it is plastic and prone to cracking. for the same price (about 33 bucks) you could replace it with an all aluminum unit. It is possible that your mechanic either over or under tightened the bolts on the thermo housing becuase he was either afraid itr was plastic or ignored it was plastic. You really should be usiing a torque wrench. In any case, the plastic one should be fine for a good couple of years assuming your mechanic didn't damage it by over tightening. Replace the gasket, and throw in the new water pump since it is only 30 bucks and you already have it. you could just remove the pump and change the gasket, but why take any chances... the BMW coolant alone would cost more to replace if you have to re do the job ...

Let me know if you need any further help
 
#5 ·
Thanks for your replies..

I think the mechanic has over tightened the nuts for the themostat Housing (TH)because they were tight enough.. but they weren't that hard.... as the 32mm fan pulley(don't know why... I didn't feel that hard removing 32mm pulley.... may be the pulley was not that tight)..... they seems to be tight.. DOn't know what might be the reason...??

and the gasket is a little sticky in the Housing ... nothing is coming to my mind... of what could be the problem......???? any way ..

O.k Here what I am going to do... please stop me before evening(going to fix evrything this evening)...

1. Since everything related to Temostat is new I am going to use the same.... and try to use it for a yr or so.. I wanted to get the metallic but I cannot wait for another 3-4 days for the item to get in mail...

2. Regarding the WP .. if you remember my previous posts .. I am the one who topped the coolant with tap water once in a week for about 3-4 times. So, what I noticed on the circular centrifugal part of the WP is the rusty kind of powder.... So, I think its due to the tap water mix.....So, do I really need to consider cleaning any other parts other than the surface where the WP is residing.. am I missing anything here ....??? do u guys have any suggestions???

Please guide/ advise me if I am doing anything wrong or missing any checkups.

Believe me .. before starting this ... I am really afraid of doing this... But I can say without the support and help of this forum.. i coudn't have reached this far....... Thanks for all you guys. :cheers .

Now I got a cmd on myself....in fixing and trouble shooting....
my 325i


Guys you have till 5.00pm to post your suggestions...!!!! :clap2 :joking:
 

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#7 ·
Guys !! here is what I observed after driving..... Coolant level is droppping very quickly... I mean there might be some leakage which I don't see from the top..... I coudn't get under the car due to heavy rain,.. I will check and let you know ASAP.

In between could you please let me know what would be the possible reasons of my leakage?? *(I replaced my waterpump and the themostat).
 
#9 ·
Originally posted by greennvmachine@Aug 21 2004, 01:57 PM
i'm sure you'd notice, but there is a possibility that youve blown you head gasket, are you losing any oil? or do you see any oily substances in you coolant, if so "here's your sign"
Friends, I am really worried about the problems that I am running into (coolant leaking rapidly).. even after replacing the water pump, Themostat, Themostat housing.

I just went under my car and see no leakage near the thermostat nothing under the water pump!!! evrything looks clean and dry even near the engine drain plug.. So, where is my coolant going!!! its been dropping very fast!!!

After reading the previous posts on "Head Gasket".. I am sad to say that When I started my engine when its really cold like .. not started the car for about a day or two.. I see a white smoke from my pipe??? Actually I am seeing this before i replace my water pump and thermostat...... But then I thought its just normal when we start the car.... and neglected...(didn't even thought to raise it here :banghead )

So, what do you guys think of the problem?? and what do you guys suggest me.... I am so happy working on my car replacing my water pump and themostat.. thiking that I am fixing my coolant problem... BUt now after reading the previous posts on head gasket.... I am realy going into depression.... because its not even a couple of months that I bought this car????

And also I see some of the Oil leakage from the cylinders (from the front end.. not too much but very little)!!!!

Hope this might give you some better idea on the cond of my car.

Some of the recommendations made by the dealer:

1. REAR TRANS SEAL IS LEAKING
2. GUIBO DISC IS CRACKED....

What are these two and do we really need to fix this immediately and how much its gonna charge for this fix??

So, any how... I am hoping that you guys can help this poor kid .. ....
My questions are:

1. With out any noticeable leakage !!! around the car ??? where is the coolant going???
2. How do we confirm that its the head gasket broken?? And most importantly can you shoot me with some of the links .... of why the head gasket is gone bad??

3. Is the head gasket gone bad due to topping of the coolant with tap water and ran for a month???(Dammn what a stupid guy I am??? :banghead :banghead :banghead )

4. During my fix in the WP and TH did I fix anything bad which is causing this???

Do you have a rough estimate of how much its gonna cost me ???

I am really not prepared to invest a large amount on my car ...huh God......

Sorry guys I am really sad ... please give me some hope by posting your valuable suggestions and the best solution for this!!!
 
#10 ·
Aight.. just so you understand... you replaced all of that stuff.. and filled the exspansion tank.. till it was relatively full... Well.. once you warm up the engine.. that coolant.. will flow throught the entire engine... thus causing a rapid visible lose of coolant in the exspansion tank.

This is the best method to finally get all the coolant in there...

Do what you've already done... drive the car... warm it up... then park it.. and let it cool.. go home.. and leave it over night.. let that coolant sit in the engine ... then when you open the cap in the morning... you should notice a rapid drop in the level of the coolant... fill that sucker up.. 50/50 of course... or just Distilled water. And do that for about three days.. and everything should be good.

It is normal after you replace the coolant.. to have a rapid lose of fluid.. just because the entire engine was drained.. but couldnt obviously be filled with the new coolant because the thermostate is closed.. not allowing the fluid to reach the block. So.. once the car is warm.. the thermo will open.. allowing the new fluid to get to the block.. .. then when you turn the car off... and let it cool.. you open the cap.. and you wonder where all the fluid went.. well.. its in the block.. so.. fill her up.. it might take a few times.. but once you come to a cold car. that has sit for a while.. and check the level.. it should be at the "COLD" mark.. on the exspansion tank.

Hope this helps.

Les
 
#11 ·
Ok.. There are a few ways to tell if you've blown a head gasket... ( I HAVE :rock ) Not in my M.. but an older car non the less...

Any ways...

First method.. and probably the best mothod.. is to do a compression check... You can go to most parts stores.. and pick up a compression devices.. for a minimal amount of money... What it does is... you disconnect the fuel pump relay.. and take your spark plugs out... (all of them).. and then you get someone to screw in the compression checker.. (it screws into where the spark plug would go).. and then you sit in your car.. and turn the car over... (it wont start.. .no spark plugs.. but it will turn due to the starter..).. but turn it over about 3 or 4 times... and you will get a compression reading from the gauge for each cylinder. The compression should check within 10 percent of the lowest.. or highest number.. for all of your cylinders.... That is the most accurate way to check if you have a compression leak.. which is caused by a head gasket failure.

Next.. is not a good way to check.. but you may run into this in the future.. and its a good method of knowing whats wrong with your car...

When you drain your oil from your car durring an oil change.. you should watch your oil.. and make sure it doesnt change color as it drains from your car... a good way to tell that you have a head gasket failure.. is the coolant will mix with your oil.. and when you drain your oil.. you will be able to see a discoloration about the oil... I think it will look like an off whiteish milky color against the black/brown oil. Its very obvious.

The first is one of the first steps anyone does when thinking their head gasket has blown..

But like I just posted above... it is natural for your coolant to drop when you warm your car up.


Les
 
#12 ·
Originally posted by 97alpineM3@Aug 21 2004, 07:09 PM
Ok.. There are a few ways to tell if you've blown a head gasket... ( I HAVE :rock ) Not in my M.. but an older car non the less...

Any ways...

First method.. and probably the best mothod.. is to do a compression check... You can go to most parts stores.. and pick up a compression devices.. for a minimal amount of money... What it does is... you disconnect the fuel pump relay.. and take your spark plugs out... (all of them).. and then you get someone to screw in the compression checker.. (it screws into where the spark plug would go).. and then you sit in your car.. and turn the car over... (it wont start.. .no spark plugs.. but it will turn due to the starter..).. but turn it over about 3 or 4 times... and you will get a compression reading from the gauge for each cylinder. The compression should check within 10 percent of the lowest.. or highest number.. for all of your cylinders.... That is the most accurate way to check if you have a compression leak.. which is caused by a head gasket failure.

Next.. is not a good way to check.. but you may run into this in the future.. and its a good method of knowing whats wrong with your car...

When you drain your oil from your car durring an oil change.. you should watch your oil.. and make sure it doesnt change color as it drains from your car... a good way to tell that you have a head gasket failure.. is the coolant will mix with your oil.. and when you drain your oil.. you will be able to see a discoloration about the oil... I think it will look like an off whiteish milky color against the black/brown oil. Its very obvious.

The first is one of the first steps anyone does when thinking their head gasket has blown..

But like I just posted above... it is natural for your coolant to drop when you warm your car up.


Les
Very much thankful Alpine :thumbs !!! You message has given a much much relief!!!

I will try to do the compression test tomorrow....

But why am I seeing a white smoke from the pipe?? when the engine is in cold start??
 
#13 ·
Did that just start.. or has it always been there... White smoke usually means yoru car is running rich..

Put your hand right behind the muffler.. and hold it there for a minute.. then take it away.. and smell your hand.. does it smell like fuel? Or oil?


Les
 
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