3-Series (E36)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad
Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.
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I just replaced my belt that drives the alternator , power steering, and the water pump. As well, I replaced the water pump and the fan blade i did remove the air intake during this for easier access. Now I have everything put back together and the check engine light is on at low rps also when you try to take off and let the clutch out the engine cuts out. Unless you give it higher rpms. the check engine light also goes off when you give it higher rpms.
I had a friend helping me and when he was taking the in take out he busted a nipple. I epoxied it back together but in fear of breaking it again I didn't tighten the hose clamp as tight as I normally would its lightly snugged if you know what I mean...PLEASE HELP ?
If that nipple is after it (meaning closer to the intake manifold), then a vacuum leak due to a broken nipple could make a difference.
Btw, what I suggest you do since you get a check engine light is to do a 'stomp test' and get the code and see what the code is for. I'm having a hard time attaching the e36 service manual, but if you go to the 5 series subforum and download the Bentley manual that's pinned to the top of the forum, that has the procudure contained (under Engine > Driveability troubleshooting): it's exactly the same.
this is definitely better then the Chiltons manual I picked up. Not to be lazy but where or what chapter do I go to to do a stomp test . please excuse my ignorance but I have no idea of what a stomp test is
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I'll keep my eye on this thread as you suggested I am learning alot about this german engineering. The performance of these cars could tur anyone into a BMW lover no matter how complex the engineering is
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