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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 03-14-2004, 02:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

The other day this light came on in my dashboard saying inspection. I have a 98 318ti with about 67K miles. I called the dealership and they said with the history on my car, it is mostlikely time for an Inspection II costing $695. He also said that theres a slim chance that it could be a I, costing $325. I talked to my dad about this and he took my car out for a drive, and he said thers no real need for paying the money since nothing seems to be wrong.

I looked in the manual to see what the Inpection II covers, like leaks and such. My car isnt leaking anything. My brakes seem to work fine. My car starts pretty fast all the time, once in a while it turns over, but no real reason why. The only things that arent working right are: airbag light has came on for no reason for the past few months and isnt going off, nothing comes out of the winshiels water nozzles front or back when lever is pushed but i still hear the motor running, clutch is starting to slip (no worry for at least a few thousand more miles), maybe its getting close to the time to replaceE brake liner. One of the lights in my dashboard is out, but its only the one behind my oil temperature gauge so no biggie. One of my foglights is busted, I just need to find the time to figure outhow to open that damn cover and change the bulb.

DO you guys recommend spending the money on the inspection or just fixing up these little things, not worry about it, and just buy a service reset tool from peake research? As for the repairs I mentioned, whats the approximate cost for each of them? The only thingI know for sure is the clutch, which is gonna cost me between 700 and 900 dollars depending where I get it done.

All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot
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Old 03-14-2004, 04:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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the inspection light isn't an alert that anything is wrong. it is there to tell you that it is time for regular maintenance.

these are the things that are covered in the inspections:
http://www.bimmerzone.com/inspection.htm

if you look at the lists, you can do virtually everything in an inspection I yourself. there are a couple of things which you'll need special tools for like battery load test, code reader & reset tool (although you can reset it easily without the tool), engineer's calipers for disc thickness, and of course a service manual (like bentley).

for inspection ii, of special note is the following:
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Originally posted by bimmerzone
The Inspection 2 Service is the larger of the two Inspection Services and basically includes all of the items performed on the Inspection I Service along with some extras like differential oil change; fuel filter and air filter replacements; Replacement of spark plugs. Inspection 2 generally runs around $400+ to $500+.
read the inspection ii section from the link above to see the rest of the list. while the $695 you were quoted is fairly high, i have heard it quoted near $800 for some people.

certainly if you are not comfortable going under your car, then you should let them inspect it. fortunately inspection ii only occurs every 20,000 miles or so.

as for your airbag light, reading the code and resetting it can cost $75-$100 at a mechanic. you can buy a tool to reset it yourself from peake research like you mentioned. it costs $129, but it is worth it if you have friends who need resetting too (like i do... one guy even needed his reset twice, after correcting the fault). just know that the engine scan/reset tool is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from the SRS airbag tool. usually the most common cause of airbag light is belt buckle or tensioner. but the only way to be sure is to read the code, a far better approach than throwing parts into it until it fixes itself (it won't, because SRS still has to be reset even after you correct the problem).

as for your windshield nozzles you might first want to stick a pin in the holes in case any hard water deposits clogged them. to test the pump you can put connect a multimeter to the pump connector and tell someone to turn it on and see if you get any voltage. when you eliminate the electrical connection, you can try to disconnect the hose from the pump and activate the pump, and see if any water squirts out at the connection. if it does, then you know the pump works and you know you have an obstruction somewhere in the hose between the pump connection and the nozzle.

i wouldn't know repair costs, but parts can be had by doing a google search.

hope this helps
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Old 03-14-2004, 04:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My reset tool was a handy-dandy paperclip. You can use a coathanger if you'd like. Just find out what pins to short and short them for the specified ammount of time and poof, no more inspection, or oil light.
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Old 03-14-2004, 04:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah; check the faq forums for more on the paperclip fixes - i don't see spending 130$ on the tool really worth it when you can do it with a paperclip which you most likely already have laying around somewhere.
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Old 03-14-2004, 09:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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my friend had the tool and just gave it to me since he doens't have his bimmer anymore. I don't have the code list though....

I don't think i could find a paper clip here at home, maybe a staple or 2 or some wire. I'd have to steal a paper clip from work.
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are pretty good at working on your car the inspections can be done yourself. Even if you don't know how to do each thing your manual can help and so can this forum.
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