its about a billion times easier to take the cluster out if you take the steering wheel off first. im saying this as mine is a non-airbag one so its just a simple 17mm bolt.
But in saying that, it is possible to wiggle out the cluster with the steering wheel still on. There is 3 clips with wires connected to it in the back, and all have a really simple (actually really cool) mechanism for taking them off.
oh and good luck replacing the lights