I want to thank all the forums and the guys who posted thin pertious info.
BTW , I have the fan speed problem ghead
I'm GOing thru the same annoying situation, in fact, i just came inside from banging my head against the dash board... what happened was i changed the capacitor on the board Using directions from Richards web site , tried different polarities, nothing worked... instrument panel recieves power to turn on the leds, but there is no love from the climate contol display screen... at this point, i donno what to do because now i have a worthless 300 piece of plasstic.... i tried reversing polarites, checking for other blown parts on the panel, but to no avail, I went to the dealer and he told me 300 for the part, which dosen't iinclude installation (balls, cause i could put it in myself) and programmming. I wonder if perhaps i have done something wrong, Any extra imput or criticisms are welcome,
As chris rock said, " YOU want me to pay 600 dollars for a machine that conditions the air, !!!! Lemme check the air, * SNIFF* Feels fine to me !!!
Originally posted by xorbital0+Nov 22 2004, 10:23 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(xorbital0 @ Nov 22 2004, 10:23 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-JAX@Nov 21 2004, 05:44 PM What value had your orriginal capacitor ????
Origional? on the board not sure,
but i used a 47uf 35v to replace it but it didn't work
the posted DIY listed a 50 volt capacitor... maybe that's your problem?
The only thing the voltage rating on the cap is, is it's ability to hold that much voltage... it doesn’t mean it DOES HOLD 50 volts no matter what voltage you feed it with.
If you charge it with 12 volts... It's holding 47 microfarads of electricity @ 12V, Not 47 microfarads at 50 volts...
If 35 V isn't enough for this application, the capacitor will fail and explode if you run enough voltage through it. (electrolyte ones are very picky about their voltage limit)
As the article states, this is just a filter cap, not a buffer cap so you don't even need 47 microfarads (I have the same cap as you, [black electrolyte] about to install [maybe this weekend])
You'll notice that the article says that a few people used 35 volt caps and they arn't having any problems as of yet so you will be fine.
Instead, I would examine your solder job and make sure the holes on the PCB are clean.
sounds to me like the main fault this the heater blower fan is the final stage resister pack this is in mounted in the left side of the heater box can't repair it just replace it not big money easy job
47 offers more capacitance than .47
If you put anything LESS than what was already in there, then that's bad. If you put in anything more than what's in there, you will be fine. If your freaking out about it, it's fine with me if you put the exact same cap in there. Won't bother me a bit, the other electronics wont care either as long as the cap can provide the power it's required to do.
It's like buying a bigger battery for your car. It does the exact same thing, 12V, etc... It's just bigger so the charge lasts longer. That's all a capacitor is, a really fast battery. They can almost instantaneously dump their entire charge. That's why it's nice to have a big 1-2 farad capacitor in-line with big amplifiers so your lights don't dim on those momentary big beats when the amps suddeny demand an insane ammount of power. The big slow battery and puny alternator simply can't keep up, so you get a voltage drop, and the car lights dim.
WEll either way 35v or 50v .047 or 47 uf, still no success, the pin holes are clean and i am pissed, perhaps if i run it over it will work...
Project air conditioner fix is now posponed until further notice..
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