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#1 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 11:59 AM
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Just changed the thermostat. Trying to refill the coolant, but hvaing difficulties.

What is the technique for proper bleeding? in what order?

fill coolant to cold mark, loosen bleed screw (nothing happens)
tighten cap and bleed screw back, start car, till overheat.
shut off, loosen bleed screw, sometimes some air comes out.
And the coolant goes in a little. I ran full heat, only cold air comes out.
How to properly get the AIR OUT?


97 328i
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 12:07 PM
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Go to www.pelicanparts.com and look for the tech pages.. there are a few good write ups on bleeding there to speak of...

Good Luck,

Les


1997 E36 M3 1990 E30 325i
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 12:26 PM
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I just read an article there. I have a 6 cylinder so the system is self bleeding. He said to pour coolant until it doesn't go in any more, remove bleed screw, keep adding coolant until all the air comes out. But the coolant doesn't go down for me. And the only way I get pressure going to the bleed screw is if the car overheats. The car does take in coolant, little by little, but I need running soon. Do you think its the head gasket?
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 12:48 PM
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I agree this the bleeding procedure You should have the ignition on and the heater set to full heat when you pour the coolant in, this is done with the engine not running and the bleed screw fully removed If you still don't get coolant coming out the bleed screw catch the screw by 2 threads start the engine with the rad cap off the coolant/air should come out the bleed screw and you should have a jet of coolant coming into the side of the rad side tank just under where the rad cap sits. Let the engine run at idle until your happy there's no more air in the system 2-3mins normally does it.
If you don't get flow to the screw and side tank have a look at the water pump the impellers break-up.
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by vmelikRUS@Apr 12 2005, 12:26 PM
I just read an article there. I have a 6 cylinder so the system is self bleeding. He said to pour coolant until it doesn't go in any more, remove bleed screw, keep adding coolant until all the air comes out. But the coolant doesn't go down for me. And the only way I get pressure going to the bleed screw is if the car overheats. The car does take in coolant, little by little, but I need running soon. Do you think its the head gasket?
[snapback]330823[/snapback]

Try taking the cap off the over-flow and then pouring in coolant. You can try pouring coolant in the car while the engine is running, if you chose to do this, TURN OFF THE CAR if it's obivously not working.

Anyone here think his thermostat might be closed?
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:07 PM
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[/quote]
Anyone here think his thermostat might be closed?
[snapback]330842[/snapback]
[/quote]

I just replaced the thermostat, with the arrow up. However I tried draing/refilling before, with same results. I am gonna go back for another shot, and come back for feedback. I made sure the thermostat was in place, when I put on the housing.
I tried running the heater with car on/off, with bleed screw on off. The hose from the thermostat to radiator is a little cooler then the other side's one, but I can't imagine it being hot, since its taking coolant flow through that little hole in the thermostat housing. Anyway I'll be back. The coolant does go down after large amount time, but at that pace it'll take methe whole day.
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:22 PM
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Have a 94’ 325i, and have done all of the coolant repairs/replacement. Experienced all of the issues you are dealing with. An independent mechanic advised that BMW’s are notoriously difficult to bleed, and that, if you park your vehicle on the steepest hill you can find (+30 degrees) and let run for 20 minutes, periodically opening the bleeder screw, the system will bleed out thoroughly. Hope this helps, it worked for me.
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by culkj@Apr 12 2005, 12:22 PM
if you park your vehicle on the steepest hill you can find (+30 degrees) and let run for 20 minutes, periodically opening the bleeder screw, the system will bleed out thoroughly. Hope this helps, it worked for me.
[snapback]330870[/snapback]
Thanks, I'll try that. Front axles at the high point right? Can I leave the screw loose, or should open/close with time?

I already tried running the heat with "bleed screw"/"tank cap" off, with engine both off/on, and no luck. I find that the only way I get coolant flowing to the bleed screw is if the car overheats, and is left parked fo wa while. There appears to be no leaks, and I think I have a metal waterpump.
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 02:19 PM
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heres how as far as my knowledge the bleeding goes.. open the bleed screw, engine on, coolant thing open, add coolant, rev engine until coolant comes out of bleed screw
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#10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by xsperf@Apr 12 2005, 01:19 PM
heres how as far as my knowledge the bleeding goes.. open the bleed screw, engine on, coolant thing open, add coolant, rev engine until coolant comes out of bleed screw
[snapback]330908[/snapback]
Yeah I tried that, but it didn't help. I have managed to get enough coolant in the system to get hot air blowing. I then unscrewed the bleed screw a little, turned the heat on, and went for a long ride. The car hasn't overheated since, but I think there is still air inside. Each time the "check coolant level" warning comes on, I add more coolant. Thanks for all the help.
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#11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 05:21 PM
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just an idea but make sure you are reading the coolant level by looking down into the expansion chamber, and not reading it from teh side. the containers get stained with the coolant and its hard to tell from teh side where the coolant level is.

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