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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 12-18-2008, 09:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Help?! Automatic '94 325i stalling!

Hi everyone,
I'm new to these forums and new at (attempting to) service my car. Last Friday, my car needed a jump to get started. I tested the battery and found out it needed to be replaced. Replaced it on Monday. That night driving home, my power steering tightened up on me. I purchased some ATF - what my model uses for PS fluid. While I was filling it up, I realized the serpentine belt had snapped and gone to shreds. So today, I replaced the serpentine belt and it ran again. I also drained (by way of the turkey baster method) my brake fluid and replaced it with a generic DOT-4 fluid.

After cleaning up, I was going to take it out for a ride. When I turn the car on, it runs fine in park as long as I'm pressing the gas...shakes a little bit from 1K-1.5K RPMs but I don't think that's a problem. If I'm not pressing the gas, the car used to idle at around 600 RPMs. Now, it fluctuates between 0 and 2K RPMs until it completely stalls and shuts off. I tried putting it in Drive, and letting it idle that way - same thing happens.

Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know anything about how to fix it? Just in case, I dumped about a half gallon of ATF in the transmission fluid reservoir to see if that would help - no change.
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Old 12-19-2008, 03:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the MAF or camshaft sensor to me.
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by marti5 View Post
Sounds like the MAF or camshaft sensor to me.
This morning I turned my car on and it idled fine, not rough at all. Idling at 700 rpms, which is a little higher than usual, but I can live with that. So I took it for a spin around the neighborhood. It did fine stopping and idling, slowing to take turns UNTIL i went into a cul-de-sac. When I turned the wheel all the way to the left, the stalling returned. Now when I start it, it will idle without going anywhere unless I punch it up to 4K RPMs, and quickly put it into drive.

Marti5, thanks for the advice. I sincerely doubt it's the MAF because I had that replaced by the stealer two years ago. Also, when the MAF went out I would press on the accelerator all day long but couldn't go faster than 5 MPHs. How would I go about checking the camshaft sensor?
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Diagnostics is really about the only way, I supose you could un plug it and if theres no difference then thats it, but ive never done this and with this unplugged she may or may not start, give it a go, nothing to lose, but the check engine light will come on, which should go off once re connected.
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yea its a camshaft sensor or crank shaft sensor i have a crankshaft sensor for sale if you need it ill give you it for like 35 i got it from bav auto with a warrenty but usually stalling is camshaft sensor
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The problem has been fixed! I did the diagnostic test on the car and it kept giving me code 1215. I looked it up and found out that that code pertains to problems with air mass/volume sensor. This can be any of a dozen of different problems. Sucked it up and took it to the mechanic who fixed the AFM boot and a vacuum hose for $215. Been driving her for a week since then and it's been a dream. Thanks for all your help.
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