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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 01:38 AM
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Help!!!

Hi all,

I've got a 1998 BMW 323is and had the engine light come on recently so took it in to the garage for diagnositcs. And they used a tool named Fcar-F3-W, I searched it in the internet and found it . But I don't know how about it.

Originally it returned four codes but they were not sure is these were old or new codes so reset the computer and told me to come back when the light came back on to see what was there. This happened so duly went back to the garage.

They returned the following codes:

P0401

P0400

P1351

There advice at this stage was that it must be the EGR valve and it would need replacing. I know these models can suffer from a sticky EGR value so I asked to have it cleaned and they said this wouldn't be worth it and it would be best to replace the unit. They also said that 'we can't confirm this will fix the problem so there might be more work needed after this' - not inspiring confidence at this point!

I should say that the light is intermittent - some days it's there others it's not. when it is there it's a solid light and accompanied by three beeps to let me know there's a problem.

I also have the following to note on the car (which may have nothing to do with this issue but who knows?) ... When I reverse the car I get a combination of six beeps (standard I believe when selecting reverse) but sometime this gives me three short beeps and then starts to sound like reversing sensors until I get the flat line noise - considering I don't have parking sensors this really confuses me!!!

There is also a metallic rattling when the engine warms up which I think is coming from the exhaust (loose fitting perhaps?) from low revs up to about 1500rpm in the lower gears and then comes back after about 3/3500 rpm.

I don't just want to throw £200 at the problem on the garages say so when it might not do any good at all. Can anyone help with ideas or suggestions as to how to fault find the real issue and not just replace parts?

I've had the car about two months and it's covered 55k. Has a warranty with Warranty Wise but they don't want to know.

Thanks in advance,

'ello! Do NOT post that wholesale website in any way again, link or otherwise - We're watching you! ah hahahaha!

Oh! You don't want to play any more? Awe! Well how happy; no more bullshit links to total crap!

Last edited by witeshark; 10-15-2012 at 12:22 AM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 10:28 PM
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First off, if i ever saw any mechanic using that china soy crap I would never return. That shit is garbage, and is spammed here on the forums a lot.

Second, the P400 and P401 codes are EGR related. Their are numerous DIYs on how to fix/clean it yourself if you want to go that route. Otherwise, replace it. They do fail.

The P1351 code is Cylinder 5 Misfire. Swap your coil pack and spark plug with one from another cylinder and see if it goes away. If the misfire follows the coil pack to the new cylinder your coil pack has gone bad and needs replacement. Have you replaced the spark plugs recently? Improper torque values can make it miss.




I really hope you didnt come on here just to spam that china soy crap.


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#3 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 11:51 PM
OMFG another one!?
 
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witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice witeshark is just really nice
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 12:02 AM
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Hahahaha epic edit Whiteshark!!


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