Ok i replaced my spark plugs today. It definitly needed to be done because the plugs we pulled out were toast. We thought everything was going great. It started up great after i put every thing back together. So of course i took it out to drive and something started to go wrong. About 2-3 miles down the road it started to kind of stutter when i pushed on the gas. So when i got to the stop light it went to idle and idled really low (almost died) so i gave it some gas and that killed it. 4 or 5 tries later it started and gave me little to no power till i got it above 3 rpms. Luckly i was able to get it home, keeping it above 3 rmps just to keep it alive. I got home and re-read the pelican parts page on how to replace my plugs and it said that you should not use the anti-seize gell which of course the guy at the autozone told me to use along with another gel for the top of the plug that helps keep out water and stops corrosion. We then went back and wiped the stuff off the plugs and it still didnt really want to run. What do i do? Has anyone changed their spark plugs before?
we set the torque rench to 18.4 like it said to do on the pelican part web page. When we removed them they were extreemly tight, and these didnt seem to go in as tight. So do you suggest making it tighter? Could making them tighter than 18.4 cause any problems?
....I would return them to the zone and see if they will replace them since they gave you bad info...btw...never rely on those guys for bimmer advice...most of them know nothing about our cars...
if they wont replace them, buy new ones, install them and see if the problem still exists...
Antiseize should be used. I read that pelican parts article about electrical continuity and it doesn't affect performance one bit. You are actually running a risk by not using it. Our cars have aluminum blocks and you can easily strip the threads..If you want get a copper based antiseize for next time..
I agree w/furious...except, replace the old plugs one at a time. I'd bet you cracked the insulation on the new plugs when you installed them. By replacing one at a time, you can find out which plug is bad and then just replace that one.
__________________ <span style='color:green'>1994 325i </span>- - - 75,000 mi.
No mods - - - very happy as is!
<span style='color:green'>1995 525i </span>- - - 154,000 mi.
No squeaks or rattles... unreal!
Antiseize should be used. I read that pelican parts article about electrical continuity and it doesn't affect performance one bit. You are actually running a risk by not using it. Our cars have aluminum blocks and you can easily strip the threads
Actually I think the risk in stripping the threads is greater on the way in...if the plug isn't lined up right...if you change your plugs when your supposed to every 10-15K, I dont see how it would be a problem....
Thanks for the replys guys. I got it to start running pretty good. My freind that helped me his dad is a mechanic and we took it for a ride and it ran pretty good. he thinks it got some carbon in the engine when we replaced the plugs and just needs to work its way out. I think that i will take the NGK's back and get Bosch. to see if that will help. Again thanks for the replys
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.