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#1 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 07:53 PM
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Heater problem

I have a 1995 325i convert. the air conditioner works fine, but when turn on heat only cool air comes out. Any sugesstion on the problem is appreciated
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 09:18 PM
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I have a 1995 325i convert. the air conditioner works fine, but when turn on heat only cool air comes out. Any sugesstion on the problem is appreciated
Hi, there are a couple of things that can cause this.....1st make sure that the vent operation is functioning correctly.......meaning when you call for heat in the floor position you have air flow coming out in the floor location, defrost blowing from its proper location.....etc.
Secondly, when was the last time you had your thermostat replaced, because a stuck open thermostat will definitely cause this problem.....
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 10:23 PM
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thanks johnnybayonne.

I had the car about only 4 months, I guess this weekend i change the thermostat.
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-08-2008, 11:39 AM
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careful when you change the t-stat if you have a plastic housing. They seem pretty strong but i cracked mine putting it back together. didnt even notice until i started having issues and noticed the leak. IMO the aluminum aftermarket ones are worth it!
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-08-2008, 01:16 PM
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careful when you change the t-stat if you have a plastic housing. They seem pretty strong but i cracked mine putting it back together. didnt even notice until i started having issues and noticed the leak. IMO the aluminum aftermarket ones are worth it!
This is why when you replace your thermostat, you upgrade to the cast aluminum housing $18.00....

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#6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2008, 07:40 PM
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hi johnnybayonne

Do u have to take of the fan to change the thermostat. look tight with fan there?
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#7 (permalink) Old 10-08-2008, 11:46 PM
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hi johnnybayonne

Do u have to take of the fan to change the thermostat. look tight with fan there?
Yes.....here is a DIY Link for thermostat removal & coolant flush. Also make sure when you are done that you bleed the system correctly.....I attached a seperate write up on how to do this correctly, Its not very hard to do but its a little tricky & the best way to know that the system is bled fully, is when you have full heat.....

BMW E36 Thermostat Removal And Coolant Flush

It really helps to have a friend lend a hand by sitting in the car revving the motor and keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Start off by removing the coolant reservoir cap and the plastic bleeder screw right next to it. Fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Have your friend start the car, turn on the heater to full hot on the vent position and rev the motor to about 2500 RPM, if the temp gauge goes past the 12 o'clock position, shut the motor off, let it cool down and start over again. Watch the coolant reservoir, as the engine warms up the coolant level should drop, refill as the coolant is sucked out of the reservoir. Watch the bleeder screw hole also, when coolant with no air bubbles begins to overflow then you're almost done. It's a good idea to have some paper towels handy to mop up any overflow. Screw the bleeder screw back in (be careful to not break the plastic screw) and continue to rev the motor, you should see a continuous stream of coolant spraying in to the reservoir from the small hole at the top. Continue letting that spray in to the reservoir while your friend revs the motor for a couple of minutes, until the gauge hits the 12 o'clock mark, to ensure any remaining air is gone. If the heater is blowing hot air when you're revving the motor AND when the engine is at idle then your cooling system is properly bled. If your vents are blowing cool air at idle then you still have air in the system, try revving the motor more and/or squeeze the radiator hoses to help dislodge any trapped air. Once your system is fully bled, top off the reservoir and replace the cap. Check the coolant level in a day or two and top off as needed.
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#8 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 09:00 PM
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i had the same problem changed the heater valve and problem was fixed for a few days now the car is running hot when i turn the heat off, is that a thermostat problem or is there some other issue
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 10:46 PM
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you wont have to remove fan , i found uo can get it out around it as my fan had seezed on haha after lots of bashing and a broken fan shroud , but can be done !

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#10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by socoolnrelaxx View Post
i had the same problem changed the heater valve and problem was fixed for a few days now the car is running hot when i turn the heat off, is that a thermostat problem or is there some other issue
did you reconnect the heater valve hoses in the proper orientation. I'm wondering if you got the hoses mixed up. It's actually tough to say what is causing this. If your temp gauge is going to the red this is not a good thing and you should immediately pull over to safe location and shut off the car when this happens. The temp gauges on these cars are pretty worthless if it's in the red your overheating or just about to. The temp gauge will stay in the middle through a wide range of temperature fluctuations. There might be air trapped somewhere as well. Try bleeding the cooling system again, make sure the heat is turned on and all the way up, also you'll want to have someone rev the engine at 2500k while you monitor the coolant coming out of the bleeder screw.

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#11 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 05:40 PM
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hi there before you change the thermostat leave your car running at normal temp and check the the top water hose coming of the thermostat housing if that remains cold then you know that your thermostat is not opening to let the water travel around the system,the other thing is that if it did remain closed then your car would be over heating.next thing to do is check you dont have an air lock in your cooling system,this is very easy to do and you do not need 2 people to do this.All you have to do is open your radiator cap and the small round philips screw on the right hand side of radiator cap,now pour your water in the radiator and keep filling UNTIL you see water coming out the bleeder hole ,take your time and dont worry if your filling your radiator right to the top as this is the only way taking out the air out of the cooling system.When the water has come out the bleeder hole, screw in the small philips screw then your radiator cap thats it.DO NOT have your engine on while you are doing this you dont need to.Run the engine at normal operating temp and check your heater.if the problem persists then its most probably your heater valve.let me know
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#12 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bavarian View Post
hi there before you change the thermostat leave your car running at normal temp and check the the top water hose coming of the thermostat housing if that remains cold then you know that your thermostat is not opening to let the water travel around the system,the other thing is that if it did remain closed then your car would be over heating.next thing to do is check you dont have an air lock in your cooling system,this is very easy to do and you do not need 2 people to do this.All you have to do is open your radiator cap and the small round philips screw on the right hand side of radiator cap,now pour your water in the radiator and keep filling UNTIL you see water coming out the bleeder hole ,take your time and dont worry if your filling your radiator right to the top as this is the only way taking out the air out of the cooling system.When the water has come out the bleeder hole, screw in the small philips screw then your radiator cap thats it.DO NOT have your engine on while you are doing this you dont need to.Run the engine at normal operating temp and check your heater.if the problem persists then its most probably your heater valve.let me know
You do need the engine on in order to FULLY bleed the cooling system, proper bleeding technique has been outlined by many of us multiple times. Running the engine will allow the water pump to do just that pump the water through the cooling system, it allows the thermostat to open, and turning the heat all the way up opens the heater valve so coolant will flow through the heater core, all of which are necessary if you want to properly bleed the cooling system and prevent air bubbles. It might take a while but you want to close that bleeder screw when you see NO MORE BUBBLES coming out. So in summary you do need the engine on.

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#13 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 03:01 PM
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You do need the engine on in order to FULLY bleed the cooling system, proper bleeding technique has been outlined by many of us multiple times. Running the engine will allow the water pump to do just that pump the water through the cooling system, it allows the thermostat to open, and turning the heat all the way up opens the heater valve so coolant will flow through the heater core, all of which are necessary if you want to properly bleed the cooling system and prevent air bubbles. It might take a while but you want to close that bleeder screw when you see NO MORE BUBBLES coming out. So in summary you do need the engine on.
hi sahab you can have the engine running but theres no need because once you fill your rad and keep filling the air will come out the bleeder hole,just give it a try and see
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#14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 05:25 PM
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hi sahab you can have the engine running but theres no need because once you fill your rad and keep filling the air will come out the bleeder hole,just give it a try and see
yeah it will, but not all of it, the bleeder hole isn't the highest point in the cooling system, obvious design flaw, this allows air to get trapped at other points, this means that just pouring it in isn't enough, you need to circulate the coolant through the system in order to evacuate all possible air pockets, you are talking about a cooling system that is self bleeding ie the fill point is the highest point of the system this is true on European e36 m3's, not true on the car we're talking about, if you want to do it the way you're stating and that works for you, great, but it's not the way I would do it, and certainly not the way i would instruct/recommend others to do. This is something I've done multiple times on multiple vehicles and have had ZERO problems to date by following the technique I explained.

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#15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHAHAB323IS View Post
yeah it will, but not all of it, the bleeder hole isn't the highest point in the cooling system, obvious design flaw, this allows air to get trapped at other points, this means that just pouring it in isn't enough, you need to circulate the coolant through the system in order to evacuate all possible air pockets, you are talking about a cooling system that is self bleeding ie the fill point is the highest point of the system this is true on European e36 m3's, not true on the car we're talking about, if you want to do it the way you're stating and that works for you, great, but it's not the way I would do it, and certainly not the way i would instruct/recommend others to do. This is something I've done multiple times on multiple vehicles and have had ZERO problems to date by following the technique I explained.
hi shahab are we talking about the e30 model if so then your right engine has to be on and revved up.I dont know why but i was just thinking of the e36 m50 engine which the bleeder is the highest point and the engine can be off.sorryits been a long day
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