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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 08-26-2007, 11:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Had to Slim Jim door Double Lock Reset Help

This must happen to a lot of people. I had to slim jim my passenger door to get into my car the other night and all my locks are now 'off-line'.

I think the double lock system is off-line.

Is that what the problem is here? I used to be able to turn the key in the door and "all the locks would respond." Further, the Lock Button is also off-line.

If the double lock system is my problem, how do I turn it back on (for lack of knowing the proper way to say that).

Also, I note this post page had E36 at the biggining. What do these codes mean?

Thank you.
Benjamin
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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E36 is for BMW 3 series 1992-1999

If you want more information on the series:
BMW - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Wink E36

Huuummm. More specifically, what does "E" stand for and "36" stand for?

Also, any idea how I can reset my Double Lock System?
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hybridarts
Huuummm. More specifically, what does "E" stand for and "36" stand for?

Also, any idea how I can reset my Double Lock System?
There is nothing to reset, while you were fishing around in the door with a slim-jim you could of cut a wire or knocked something loose.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How to reset Double Lock System

Thank you for writing.

So if AAA knocked something loose in the door, the door lock button, and all the key locks in the rest of the car, would go off-line?

Currently, the door lock button is completely dead. And, if i put the key in the driver door, not the door that was slim-jimmed, and lock or unlock, only that door opens and closes. It used to be that all the locks in the whole car would react.

Just to make sure, this is the Double Lock System that I'm talking about, correct? Maybe this is some other problem I dont know about.

Please help. I called BMW and they want me to bring the car in. That's all they ever want. I understand it's their business and they need as many service cars as possible. I've just moved and dropped $4,000 cash. I'm too broke to repair this at the dealership right now.

Benj
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Old 08-28-2007, 04:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The locking system you are refering to is the central locking. I would take the interior door panel off of the door that was slim-jimed and see if something is loose, disconnected or broken.
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Old 08-29-2007, 04:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you for the new term to research: Central Locking System.

I've found much online re this and should help me decide what to do with my locking issue.

peace
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Door locks are controlled by the comfort relay. I would look into that.
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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check fuses, check relays - when you use key in the driver's door, it locks/unlocks mechanically. check to see what's up with electrical connections - most BMWs are wires so, that when you have an electrical break (slilm jim sliced a wire), the module is not operating or operating in certain way to indicate trouble. try the key in trunk keyhole, it should operate in a similar way. normally, when system is working properly, holding a key in "double-lock" position will close windows and sunroof too.

E36, E34, E53... Those are chassis designations, E stands for for something in German, something like chassis or engineering, the numbers are not really sequential, they are internal production numbers that become official designators for series, once the model becomes production. I had E34, which is 5 series from 1989 (or 88) to 1995(or 96), that included sedans and wagons from 518 all the way up to M5, both gas and diesels. E36 is a 3-series upto sometime in 94-96 that included cars from 316ti (circumcised version) upto M3 and even I think Z3 was designated as E36. That is how the bimmer junkies distinguish between models, since most of the parts are interchangeble within E designation and sometimes across E models.

BTW, very nice and clean car, enjoy
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Old 12-13-2011, 02:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Issue Resolved; Thanks!

I was avoiding removing the side door panel. But finally...

The slim-jim knocked loose the power plug going to my actuator.

Which leads me to my next question...

Does anyone have a picture, video, or just a good description of the inside of the door and the actuator?

Reason is someone else was looking at the inside of my door and knock the actuator off...and I do NOT know how it re-attaches to the locking mechanism.

Meaning, I'm holding the actuator in my hand, and I can't see inside the door well enough to see if the actuator attaches to the top, side, someplace else on the actual physical lock. I'm I clear with that?

Does it attach someplace on top of the lock in the door, or on the side facing the front of the car, or on the back-side facing out, etc...I know I sound dumb but I can't figure out where to re-attach it!

Help
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