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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 09-12-2005, 06:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Full metal ball joints

I was talking to a guy from pelican and he said that the full metal joints are really noticably different from rubber ones. He said you will basically feel everything in the road. Now i am not track guy (yet), but does anyone have metal ones. The reason i wanted to get metal ones to avoid having to change them again. Believe me I like performance.
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I was actually wondering this myself.. would they be to harsh for the road?
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I wouldnt do that unless the rest of your suspension was made to support that type of punishment.

The more weight those ball joints transfer and the faster they transfer it the more it will play into other suspension components.

So unless you have other heavy duty components and some kick ass bushings... I'd stay away...

Thats just my opinion,

Les
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Old 09-12-2005, 10:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97alpineM3
I wouldnt do that unless the rest of your suspension was made to support that type of punishment.

The more weight those ball joints transfer and the faster they transfer it the more it will play into other suspension components.

So unless you have other heavy duty components and some kick ass bushings... I'd stay away...

Thats just my opinion,

Les
I pretty much feel the same way about it. If you are going to go all out with your suspension then yes you should do this also. But if you just have shocks and springs, you don't really need them until you start doing strut mounts, bushings ect.
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well what can I do to prevent the ware that they have so I don't have to replace my control arms again in about 50k or so like everyone says. Granted I just got this car and it has 82k on it, but i have no idea if they are the orginal control arms or have been replaced b4.

Refering to the Meyle's control arm at bavauto.com Part num 31 12 1 140957M

Last edited by stracer; 09-13-2005 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 09-13-2005, 10:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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anyone?
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Old 09-16-2005, 12:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stracer
Well what can I do to prevent the ware that they have so I don't have to replace my control arms again in about 50k or so like everyone says. Granted I just got this car and it has 82k on it, but i have no idea if they are the orginal control arms or have been replaced b4.

Refering to the Meyle's control arm at bavauto.com Part num 31 12 1 140957M
I have the Mayle ones from Bavauto, and i like them, i do feel a much crisp road when driving.
I did not notice any difference in terms of noise after using them, but i do agree on replacing bushings as well since ure at it, whicht is what ive done...

Got a full new suspension springs, shhocks, bushings , joints and all for rear and front.

I find that the best fisrt investement for the e36 is to do a complete suspension job.
Depending on the year of fabrication or your car i would also recommend for you to check your rear subframe suspension bolts, as to make sure you dont have an issue with the ones that rip off from the car...

but overall go for it, if you are going for a full suspension work.
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Old 09-16-2005, 12:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yea, I did decide to get them. I am having them put on monday.
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