the bentley will tell you how to do it, but you might need a stripped screw removal tool because there's this little allan screw that holds the fucking rotor on, and it always strips. Oh and get a dead weight mallet to whack the rotor with until it comes loose. Usually they rust on.
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Thanks guys. Will try to get manual from Amazon.com, cant buy it here. As for the allen key rotor retaining bolt, I hope that the previous owner had put some antisieze compound - and if not , I am ready for extracting that nuisance bolt which everybody is complaining about - I have a set of worn screw extractors.
For the time being, can anybody please tell me the tightening torque settings for the caliper bolts? Unfortunately, I have a habit of damaging bolts while tightening and prefer to use a torque wrench.
Run a search on google. I know I found a pretty comprehensive DIY, with pictures, required tools, toruqe settings, potential problems, etc. Sorry I simply am referring you somewhere else, but I am caught up with homework.
Turkey Fleet Bond Holder
Originally Posted by BMWBeauty416
I'm scared if you took pictures of me cleaning a rifle Dave might consider it porn
Dude, I just did this and it almost turned into a nightmare....
The first one I tried, the rotor hex was completely seized...
I recommend dousing the whole thing (the bolt front and back) with PB before trying to remove that bolt....good luck...
Thanks for giving me confidence!
Just being realistic....one thing I've learned from workign on my car is that you have to be prepared for anything...all of the recommended "fixes" for a seized bolt did not work in my case...
All in all its a relatively easy job...pretty straight-forward once you get in there...just be careful with those damn hex bolts...
oh, and the DIY for the rear brakes is fine...I used this same set of directions for the fronts...
Make sure you bought the new rotor hex bolts and new brake sensors (regardless if the light was on)....reason being that the hex bolt will likely strip, and the sensors brake very easily when you pry them out. having ALL the necessary parts makes this kind of job easier because if you get half way in and dont have the part you need...
I did this relatively easy job and I came across another problem. The caliper carrier bolts are on TIGHT and they broke my balls big time. It's hard to get leverage inside the wheel well with the breaker bar. I didn't have a 3 pound mallet as suggested so I suggest getting the mallet.
Quick question I got the calipers off and I went to undo the rotor hold down hex bolts and to my dismay the rotors would spin making it impossible to undo the bolt. What I ended up doing was lowering the rotor onto cinder blocks just enough so the rotor couldn't spin. Then the bolts came off no prob. Should I have taken off the hex bolts first?
To all those helpful guys - I did the rotor replacement job- turned out to be easier than I thought - just because somebody had done a good job of puting antisieze compound which made it easier to remove the bolts - except of course the caliper hex bolts which were extremely difficult - I had to use a pipe to extend the arm of wrench. The allen bolt retaining the rotor can be best removed first before removing caliper because you can apply brake with the help of an assistance so that rotor doesnot rotate.
The best news was that the rotors were the cause of the problem!
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