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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 04-17-2005, 11:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi,
Just joined the forum as a new owner of BMW 316 i - Still have my MB G Wagon!

I have front vibration when I apply the breakes. Bushes, bearigs ball joints all checked and problem isolated to deformed rotors. Need help, manual on how to replace - first time repair on BMW. Thanks
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Old 04-18-2005, 12:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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get the bently manule(i heard its the best).

i have the other manule its ok, but good if ur straped for cash.

first step take off tire... and so on and so on j/k
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Old 04-18-2005, 12:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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the bentley will tell you how to do it, but you might need a stripped screw removal tool because there's this little allan screw that holds the fucking rotor on, and it always strips. Oh and get a dead weight mallet to whack the rotor with until it comes loose. Usually they rust on.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. Will try to get manual from Amazon.com, cant buy it here. As for the allen key rotor retaining bolt, I hope that the previous owner had put some antisieze compound - and if not , I am ready for extracting that nuisance bolt which everybody is complaining about - I have a set of worn screw extractors.

For the time being, can anybody please tell me the tightening torque settings for the caliper bolts? Unfortunately, I have a habit of damaging bolts while tightening and prefer to use a torque wrench.

Thanks again
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Old 04-18-2005, 10:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Dude, I just did this and it almost turned into a nightmare....

The first one I tried, the rotor hex was completely seized...

I recommend dousing the whole thing (the bolt front and back) with PB before trying to remove that bolt....good luck...
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally posted by RIBEMR26@Apr 18 2005, 07:56 PM
Dude, I just did this and it almost turned into a nightmare....

The first one I tried, the rotor hex was completely seized...

I recommend dousing the whole thing (the bolt front and back) with PB before trying to remove that bolt....good luck...
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Thanks for giving me confidence!
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Run a search on google. I know I found a pretty comprehensive DIY, with pictures, required tools, toruqe settings, potential problems, etc. Sorry I simply am referring you somewhere else, but I am caught up with homework.

Good luck.
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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This is for rear brakes, but I am guessing things won't be much different:

http://www.smithnet.ca/bmwclub_faqs/e36_re...rakes/start.htm
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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http://www.koalamotorsport.com/tech/misc/brakes.htm
http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWT...torSwapE36.html

http://www.racepad.com/tech/bmw/change_bra...e_pads_view.pdf
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Old 04-19-2005, 03:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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it's not too hard, just make sure you take care of your bearing maintenance during the rotor swap.
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Old 04-19-2005, 05:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks you all very much - you have been wonderful - got all the info I need. Working on the car tomorrow. Will let u know how it goes
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Old 04-19-2005, 06:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Dude, I just did this and it almost turned into a nightmare....

The first one I tried, the rotor hex was completely seized...

I recommend dousing the whole thing (the bolt front and back) with PB before trying to remove that bolt....good luck...

Quote:
Thanks for giving me confidence!
Just being realistic....one thing I've learned from workign on my car is that you have to be prepared for anything...all of the recommended "fixes" for a seized bolt did not work in my case...

All in all its a relatively easy job...pretty straight-forward once you get in there...just be careful with those damn hex bolts...

oh, and the DIY for the rear brakes is fine...I used this same set of directions for the fronts...

Make sure you bought the new rotor hex bolts and new brake sensors (regardless if the light was on)....reason being that the hex bolt will likely strip, and the sensors brake very easily when you pry them out. having ALL the necessary parts makes this kind of job easier because if you get half way in and dont have the part you need...

Good luck buddy...
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I did this relatively easy job and I came across another problem. The caliper carrier bolts are on TIGHT and they broke my balls big time. It's hard to get leverage inside the wheel well with the breaker bar. I didn't have a 3 pound mallet as suggested so I suggest getting the mallet.

Quick question I got the calipers off and I went to undo the rotor hold down hex bolts and to my dismay the rotors would spin making it impossible to undo the bolt. What I ended up doing was lowering the rotor onto cinder blocks just enough so the rotor couldn't spin. Then the bolts came off no prob. Should I have taken off the hex bolts first?
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Old 04-23-2005, 02:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Hi

To all those helpful guys - I did the rotor replacement job- turned out to be easier than I thought - just because somebody had done a good job of puting antisieze compound which made it easier to remove the bolts - except of course the caliper hex bolts which were extremely difficult - I had to use a pipe to extend the arm of wrench. The allen bolt retaining the rotor can be best removed first before removing caliper because you can apply brake with the help of an assistance so that rotor doesnot rotate.

The best news was that the rotors were the cause of the problem!
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Old 04-24-2005, 08:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Im glad to hear it all worked out for you!
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