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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 01-03-2005, 02:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I ordered the parts to do my front brakes-OEM rotors & Hawk HPS Street pads. Now when I go to do this job do I have to bleed the brakes? Should I do a brake fluid bleed anyways? If it is suggested that I bleed them do I have to bleed the rear brakes too? or can you just bleed the fronts?
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You won't HAVE to bleed them if you use the C-Clamp method to compress the cylinders because the fluid system won't have changed. If your braking still seems rather off when you are done, you may need to go back to bleed the system. If you do want to, bleed all the lines because its possible air could be introduced temporarily, making your brakes catch late and your brake pedal very soft.
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Weird, hopefully I'm doing the exact same thing tomorrow at my dad's race shop... Hawk HPS and OEM front rotors.... (well not HIS race shop, but he goes there with his stockcar)
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yea I plan to do the C-Clamp method on the caliper piston.. Thanks for the info..all in all I got the parts shipped to my door for $160. BMW wanted $400-HA screw them..i'll save myself $250
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Old 01-03-2005, 04:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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400$ for what? pads & rotors?

they charged me only 65$ for each rotor...
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Old 01-03-2005, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just did mine two days ago using the c-clamp method. Worked perfectly and brake are fine. Just be sure to change the sensor. You can get one for a mere 15 bucks from BMW. That's relatively cheap considering the source.
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Old 01-03-2005, 07:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey guys, please let me know how this works out for you.
I want to get Hawk pads as well but I don't know how they will react with the OEM rotor. I am torn between Zimmerman cross drilled and OEM. To be honest I'd prefer to stick with OEM because I've heard some bad stories with cross drilled. I just don't want the Hawk pad to eat up the rotor.
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Old 01-03-2005, 08:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You do NOT need to bleed the brakes when replacing rotors and pads. If you do want to bleed the brakes you must do all of them, not just the fronts. The C-clamp method works, but i always use a slotted pipe wrench covered in a towel.

Here is a good link to help you out. It's for rear brakes, but it's exactly the same except for the parking brake adjustments. Good luck http://www.smithnet.ca/bmwclub_faqs/e36_re...rakes/start.htm
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Old 01-04-2005, 07:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bitcore@Jan 3 2005, 05:08 PM
400$ for what? pads & rotors?

they charged me only 65$ for each rotor...
[snapback]263364[/snapback]
To do the whole job including labor would be $400..At least that is what they told me..Seems a bit outrageous to me but for the stealership it sounds about right for what they would charge. I already got ass raped for $1500 and I refuse to give them any more of my money..
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Old 01-04-2005, 07:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YoungExec728@Jan 3 2005, 09:24 PM
You do NOT need to bleed the brakes when replacing rotors and pads. If you do want to bleed the brakes you must do all of them, not just the fronts. The C-clamp method works, but i always use a slotted pipe wrench covered in a towel.

Here is a good link to help you out. It's for rear brakes, but it's exactly the same except for the parking brake adjustments. Good luck http://www.smithnet.ca/bmwclub_faqs/e36_re...rakes/start.htm
[snapback]263554[/snapback]
Thank you! Did you use anti-squeal stuff on the contact points? The bentley talks about using it but am wonder if I have to use it..
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You shouldn't have to...the hawks are a composite material if I'm not mistaken, so it won't squeal. Bavauto.com has the sensors for even cheaper (I thoguht I saw them for like $7). The dealer I went to for my clutch replacement said they would give me sensors for $29 a piece...hows that for a rip...
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Old 01-04-2005, 10:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 93 325i@Jan 4 2005, 05:59 AM
Thank you! Did you use anti-squeal stuff on the contact points? The bentley talks about using it but am wonder if I have to use it..
[snapback]263939[/snapback]

Yes I used the anti-squeal brake quiet. There are two versions; a paste and a spray on. I used the spray on stuff. It's real easy, just spray the back of the pads with it before installing them. A light coat goes a long way. Make sure you put some old newspaper or something under the pads before spraying them though because the spray won't wipe up. Now i have blue brake pad outlines on my garage floor, haha. It's only a few bucks and an extra 2 mins, a few seconds to spray and let dry for about a min. So why not do it for added insurance?
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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true, I ordered an anti squeal paste from bavauto plus 2 new rotor hold down bolts. Simple step to do so why not do it..
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Old 01-04-2005, 05:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This job's fairly easy.

I used the paste and that would probably be better since only part of the back of the pad touches the caliper. You can put it where you need it and not have to hold the pad by the edges so you don't get the gunk all over the place

If you have an extra 45 minutes, I guess I'd flush the lines if you have never had that done or at least bleed them out, I would have if I had some fluid and a pressure bleeder. Oh well.
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