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3-Series (E36) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1992-1999. Autodoodad Specific models include: BMW 316i, BMW 318i, BMW 318iS/ti, BMW 320, BMW 323, BMW 320, BMW 324, BMW 325, BMW 328.

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Old 05-18-2005, 10:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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ok some i'm having some issuses with my car this week. i was in the lot today at school, and i tapped this jeep cherokee in front of me. i knew this girl so i knew it would be ok. anyway it wasn;t pushing it at all. so then she reversed and i kept going forward. there was this awful sound, but i kept going. then these kids were giving me some bad looks. and i was just thinking shit. then this other girl runs up with the metel surrounder of the grill. and i just thought shit! so i got out of my car to put it back on. then i saw the grill part was pushed in to the fan. and just cracked a little on the bottom. but i put it back on and it looks fine you can't notice a differance. my problem is just that damn fan. what does it do? will it be expensive to fix?
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It turns on when you are overheating and nonsense. Make sure the bracket is still holding the fan tighly otherwise it may come loose and the fan might chop away at hoses, leading to even more overheating problems.

It's not to terribly expensive but i dont think you hurt it. Did you?

Kid, no offense but you're being pretty childish with your car. Chill a bit and relax. You got a BMW. You showing off isnt necessary, it's built into the car
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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so it's not always on? that's good it just made a really bad noise so i thought maybe. i'll take it to the dealer this weekend. it seems to be in place still so that's a good sign.
i know i really am fucking up with my car lately.
thanks for your help buddy!
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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that fan is your auxilury fan, its turns on when you use your air conditioning.
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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so it's a good sign that my a/c still works?
but i'm pretty sure the fan still isn't moving.
maybe i was just looking at the wrong times; hopefully.
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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FUCK a/c. thats why u got windows and the accelerator pedal.
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally posted by ///M Power@May 19 2005, 08:41 AM
FUCK a/c. thats why u got windows and the accelerator pedal.
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it turns on on low speed when you turn on the a/c, it turns on "high" when your water temp. reaches 195 degrees.
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well aware, but i still prefer the window method. either way his should be fine. they can stand a little bump here adn there.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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if there are any cracks in your shroud or fan then you should def. get it plastic welded.

unless you go to a junkyard and get a fan or shroud you will pay out the ass, that is if you can find it. the dealer told me that i had to buy the fan as a complete piece - $300+...
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If the fan is not coming on then you may have a faulty auxiliary fan switch. To test the switch, remove the wiring harness that connects to it (on right side, i.e., passenger side on US models, of radiator, a three pin plug). The plug should have three wires coming to it: black/green, black/gray, and brown. Brown is ground, the other two are the control input for the auxiliary fan -- low and high speed, but I don't remember which one is which. With the ignition on, take a jumper from brown to either of the other two. The fan should start. Try both, as each has an independent relay that may have also failed. If your auxiliary fan is not coming on when the A/C is on, you may have a faulty fan, an switch, a blown fuse, or a blown aux. fan low-speed relay.
The test described above actually tests the fan motor (you are switching it on manually). The reasoning is that if it works when controlled directly, then the switch is bad (or a fuse or relay). The bad news is that I think that when you turn on your A/C, the car's electronics override the switch's signal (which is strictly temperature-dependent) and activate the fan in low-speed mode regardless of temperature, unless already runningin high speed mode. This is bad news becasue if your fan is not coming on when your A/C is on, then your fan motor is probably bad. Go ahead and run the test, though. I will be happy for you if I am proven wrong.
If the motor is bad, you will very likely have to buy the entire assembly - fan blades, shroud, and motor - as one replacement part. The replacement switch is not very expensive (about $25-$30). The fan assembly is more costly. I checked bavauto: $530. If the dealer charges $300, as mentioned above, that may be the way to go. Maybe we're not talking about the same thing.

Good luck.
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Old 05-21-2005, 01:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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wow $550 that's intense. my moms gonna give me so much shit. is this a fan that i would really need to have replaced. everything seems to be intact. i assume that my car needs to be on to do this test right?
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes, run the test with the ignition on. The fan is not absolutely necessary. However, withthe summer coming, your car may easily overheat while idling and running the A/C. Your call (you can alays just rev up the engine, I guess). I would look into fixing it if I were you.
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